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lol, ok no problem. I havnt had a glove box for months.

good idea, i'll definately check. I soldered but Its bound to be something i did to the car.

It seems that with this car it has been one thing after another. I love it, but i'm getting aggrivated and need some help with this problem. I was about a mile from work cruising at a steady 14% throttle when i see my tach randomly drop 700 rpms (i mean 1/4 second quick, stock flywheel). This...

WTF indeed.

Better safe than sorry?

sorry, i neglected this thread and didnt say what the problem was. I figured out that the problem was a bad wire from the 12volt mod. The wire was fried and the plastic connector was melted. The end result was insufficient power to the fuel pump. Thanks for all the suggestions, it WAS eletrical...

MAFT, with maft installed in blowthrough, the car will run great with an atmosphere vented BOV. Search it.

injectors and fuel pump (walbro) are both brand new, and i went to start the car this morning and it ran with no more problems? WTF. I immediately put gas in it, and have had no more troubles whatsoever. Not even a stumble at idle.

no codes, maft is not blinking. I'm stumped.

When i go back to check it, whenever that is, i'll bring gas. It does seem like i'm loosing fuel pressure tho. But i dont understand why the car will start and then die.

I drove my car to the local advance auto after getting all my Vf's straight with my newly installed MAFT. It ran like a champ. I was monitoring my Vf's and my A/R's on the way there as a matter of fact. I turn the car off and go inside to pick up a few things. I come back out 5 or so mins later...

sooo i got all my cruising Vf's straight. I took a drive to the local advance auto to pick up some oil and stuff. The car ran perfect, I went in and came back out in about 5 minutes, i tried to start the car and it idled like crap. I tried to drive it anyways and the car just stalled and jerked...

I dont know, but remember MAFT isnt only made for the MKIII, maybe it works better on a DSM or GN?

anyone?

okay i finally got the Vf's right at idle on the 550's setting. I started to fix the Vf's at a cruise. first of all i dont know what i'm looking for. It seems that the Vfs go back down to ~1 v at 2800 rpms. check out the logs.

yea, i'm not trying to kill my motor with a harsh tune, i'm definately going to go with a 11.5ish tune. I took a 24 hr break from the car, I'll look at it later this afternoon once i finish classes. Maybe something will click then. I had to take a break when i started it up 10 minutes after...

I have the 3" sensor, I hadnt reset the ECU since the morning, since then i've done a lot of low throttle driving. It doesnt make sense to me that the Vf's changed so much.

I dont get it, after noticing that the volatge was around 2.25, i went back to the car, started it up, and all of a sudden the voltage was at 5 and the car ran like crap. after changing nothing at all. I'm really getting pissed off.

This log was at operating temperature, on the 440's setting with all other knobs zeroed, and the SAFC initialized. EDIT: I just looked back at this log and noticed that the voltage is now jumping from between ~2.25 (where it should be) and ~1, where before it would jump from ~3.75 and ~1.

I'm shooting for 11.5's, right now I'm on the 440's setting with 550's. I have a SAFC installed for all the WOT tuning. I'm just trying to get a good base and idle setting. I'll go out and get some logs of operating temp idle, first things first.