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Looks like it IS supposed to be connected directly to the battery via relay. I dont know if it will make a difference or not.... I connected my EMS power to the EFI relay behind the battery. The AEM is kind of wierd though. The switched 12 v goes into the AEM from the key, and the AEM sends a...

Did you see these links? I havent read them yet. http://wbo2.com/lsu/lsuworks.htm http://wbo2.com/cable/lsuconns.htm http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/forum/index.php

Yeah, I think that 25A is plenty. Do you have a sensor controller? Is there one built into the EMS? Are you sure that your ox sensor is compatable with the EMS? My AEM UEGO gauge w/built in controller has wires that run directly from the gauge/sensor. Some of the AEM computers have...

I dont know if you WB has a built in relay - maybe you could use one of your AC relays under the fuse block in the engine bay to turn it on/off with the key and connect it directly through the battery. What are the wires on the WB?

How do you have your WB sensor wired up? Please forgive me if the following doesnt help: It pulls a considerable amount of current, and relies on a steady voltage so I think the + should run to the battery so it doesnt change with lights on, stereo on etc. It should be grounded to the...

They connect to the block and then the mount with the rubber spacer. Basically, they take the place of the block brackets on the 7m

I havent received the ATS yet, and my car isnt up and running..... But, I will be sure to talk about it when it does! It looks like a quality piece and has a lot of different options. You could also go with the twin plate setup - im not sure off the top of my head but I think you could get it...

I have an ATS triple carbon on order. It costs around 2500 and is rated to 1300 hp. I was going to go with the twin but it is only rated to 800. Not that I expect to run that high but I didnt want to spend a bunch of money on a clutch that I might burn after a few years on a really hard run.

No - I havent tackled that issue yet. Whatever I do I also have to keep in mind that there needs to be more room for the compressor outlet. I have one of those cast 90 bends from precision turbo that will be welded on the end on the compressor housing.

Right on - Im glad I have gone with the 2jnat swap as well. If things go to hell with this shortblock because of an accidental 45psi or something then I can get a cheap core..... Swap... KaPow!

Some quick updates: Got the wiring done for the AEM. Because I was using a GTE AEM some of the pinouts were different and I had to move the wires. This meant that I had to trace them ALL out to ensure they went to the appropriate place. By using the wiring diagrams of the 7M/MKIII chassis...

Way to go brotha - Ive got to ask though - where did you get the idea from to go 2jzge-t? I think I got the idea from clubna-t or something.... I dont remember because its been awhile.

do you have the fans wired up through a relay or directly from a +12v lead from the EMS?

you could boil or heat the sensor and then check the contacts to see if they open My bet is that you wont need it. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge

the cheapass super tech "lubricant" from wal mart works well for cleaning off carbon

I recommend steering away from single-plate clutches with high torque ratings. They can give you crank walk

go to kevin tetz's website "paintucation" - alot of questions answered there. I also have a thread on SF about this.

Im sure you figured this out already because your car is running but I dont think the CPS would have to be 180 out with the Stinger. The Stinger is a universal EMS right? The only reason it would have to be 180 out or you would have to switch G1 and G2 is in case you were using the 2JZ...

ITS ALIIIIIIIIIIIIVVVVVVVVVVVVEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!

Wish I could help with the stinger but I dont know $hit about it.