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Like backlash said, drain the tank and drop it! You're only going to clog the new filter if your tank is rusting. Plus, are you still on your original fuel pump? Great opportunity to swap it out, especially if you ever plan on making more than stock power. I'm getting rid of my Walbro pump in a...

Well, intrax sits a bit lower in the rear, in my experience. One of the reasons why i went Eibach.

Getting the cluster out is the hardest part. And even that's pretty easy.

I would check the relay bypass you did in the engine compartment.

Well, it's suppose to make a big difference, and I don't think it matters if you race or just drive. Alot of heat comes off the manifold and exhaust, especially if it's stainless tubing vs cast iron. My mani is iron so I didn't wrap it.

Well, to be honest, that was a year and a half ago for me, and I don't recall having any gap/ spacing issues, but I did reuse my top caps. On another note, I FINALLY got the Dp completed, and wrapped.

Everything he said. :) But, If you already are getting normal use of your reverse lights, I was thinking maybe that connecter could be for the egr valve. I saw that you're in Washington, and if your car was originally a California car, then it could be the egr.

To rule out the pump, have you checked the wires at the top of the tank for voltage, while jumpering?

The speedo(if new) doesn't need to be lubed. 1. Remove gauge cluster, lift head of cable up to remove it from its cradle in the dash. 2. Pry firewall grommet out to release. 3. Unscrew long cable from short cable near the rear of the passenger side of the transmission. 4. pry back the two...

You CAN actually replace the filter without removing anything, but it's tight. Thing is, I'd remove the fuel tank regardless. That rust didn't originate from the filter, it's being formed in the tank.

LMAO. You know it's bad when people are 'waiting' to get web-bashed by "him", and everyone knows who you mean. Im not sure I understand what you're saying aboutyour iscv test; It sounds like you blocked the hose running from the iscv to an air source, which means it's effectively not there-...

If the actual pulley and mount on your old one are still good, you can just replace the bearing itself. They're like $4 for a good one.

It definitely seems like he topped out the gearing a bit before the finish line. I wonder what rear the car was using. I imagine the tallest they could find.

Well, vac leaks would cause a lean condition, that the ecu would try to readjust by adding fuel, once detected by the O2 sensor. But I may be giving too much credit to the O2 system. Regardless, it's hard to say what you should be getting for highway mileage, since you dont run on the highway...

Yeah, the lip is made for the brake ducts, but this one does not include the ducts themselves. Those are something I can hunt down later. As for the turbo spacers, I think there may be a bit more room to raise the turbo without hitting the hood, but not much. The problem I encountered, was...

I just ordered them from Advanced, i think. ANY big car parts store should be able to get you a pair within a day or two.

Doubt it. Unless for some reason your can is ultra-restrictive. Best bet is to check for vac leaks. That'll reduce mileage. What are you getting on the highway?

From Poland, no less. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPRA-MK3-MA70-REAR-SUBFRAME-BUSHES-/141041917680?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item20d6c0def0&vxp=mtr Ps- i'm mainly just posting this because there's been such a rediculuosly low amount of traffic in this section lately...

Im sure that the belt is fine to use.

Decided to start a new thread on the same exact subject? Ok.