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DO NOT block the water lines off, you WILL have overheating. The simple answer is to loop them. I had my car running for over a month blocked off and it didnt overheat until i took it onto the highway for about 5 minutes, the temperature gauge moved to the red very quickly, luckily I caught it...

..I havn't heard anything, but i really hope they make it. I'm sure a lot of people would get it to max out their CT's and get more power out of their boss and SP bolt on's.

i think drilled look better, but slotted are definately better.

good to see you figured it out porterz, sometimes you just gotta sleep on it.. alot.

wow, you guys are hardcore. I'll just turn up the boost.

well, It was lean pre-boost, and it was lean around 4000 rpms to redline like you said, the lean condition didnt necesarily cause the power loss, but since i was on pump gas its a very dangerous condition, where detonation could have resulted. I would say that the Ideal tune would stay around...

lol

exactly, it does make sense, and it is the same concept as the two blow off valves. I just had a faulty actuator, but be careful because fuel cut could save you if you had creep.

It does. They do that because one wastegate isnt able to flow enough exhaust air, so it backs up and starts to exit through the exhaust turbine, causing creep. Generally hondas and DSM's dont produce enough exhaust gasses for this to happen so they should be fine with an internal wastegate, and...

^^It is, I know a lot of guys with hondas that go the ex WG route.

I want this car, if someone can store it for me I'll buy it. I'm in VA, about 60 miles from it.

I'm with Porterz, MAF-T worked wonders for me. I've run the HKS FCD, the Lexus AFM + 550's, and MAF-T. MAF-T was the most tunable and safest, not to mention the other benefits of it.

wow, this is an old thread

haha, yea.. a little under 20psi, like 18psi in first and second and it would continue to creep above 20psi.

ehh its more like the rod barely begins to move (this is while connnected to the pin) at around 20psi, it completely opens at 35psi.

bah, i messed with the arm and legnthened it, looks like i need a new actuator because the wastegate door is open. I am possitive that SP will fix the problem for me, I'm sure this is just a fluke. I believe the bend in the actuator arm is normal. I didnt mess with it at all, thats...

I legnthened the actuator arm and it opens at slightly lower boost, but its still in the 30-35psi range when its completely open. I called SP, the guy I need to talk to isnt in for another hour, before then i have to go to work. Looks like this issues going to take awhile to resolve.

rod knock

okay, here is a picture of the actuator arm from underneath. Note that the actuator mounts to the backside of the compressor.

I understand what you're saying arz. Unfortunatey, i cannot disconnect the actuator arm from the "actuator door pivot arm". it has some sort of.. kinda like a pin/clamp thing which keeps the rod from sliding off the pin on the door's lever. I'm gonna post some pictures of it later, i believe i...