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Dude - I am still overwhelmed by my paint project. I have one last piece (fuel door) to finish up and it seems like it is just WAY overbearing. Im honestly burnt out. It took me about 4 months of part time work to get the car ready for paint. My full time job would just interfere too much...

Duane thats a lot of work man. I know because I just did it myself. Im sure you meant PPG - it looks like they sprayed down some K38 or maybe even some DPLF as a sealer? Either way your car was a bit more stripped down than mine. Are you going with white? Im sure it will look clean either...

what kind of paint products are you using?

Good move on changing the brake fluid before your calipers rust up. I siphon or use a turkey baster to pull out the old fluid from the reservoir first. Refill it with new fluid and then go about bleeding your brakes. Start with the caliper that is the furthest from your reservoir (RR) then do...

Im having some trouble tuning out some of the problems. I havent really tried too much but Im wondering if anybody has some pointers. First, the car doesnt really start very easily. I know that the crank injector time table on the engine start section determines the amount of fuel injected...

You guys are probably right if you have seen the exact same pattern before. I dont have a 2jzgte block and a 1jz head to see if the valve strike in that location is even probable/possible.

google "standard abrasives porting guide" for some simple guidance on porting your head

This sounds kind of dumb. Did you put some Redline in your trans yet?

Google "AEM EFI basics .pdf" for their PDF. Very thorough http://www.347stang.com/files/AEMEFIBasicsV1.3.pdf I dont know how long this link will work.

thanks for stepping up turbo joe - we were waiting for a SME on this. I'm just starting to get my AEM running right since installing it last fall. We were absolutely hammered with snow this year and we STILL are getting snowed on (today is march 31st) with 4" yesterday.... I will be moving down...

I just typed a bunch of garbage and realized that I didnt even reply to your post. Here goes what I hope to be a legitimate input: Did you see the section in the AEM manual about richening the fuel mixture if the engine starts to get too hot? I think you can use the same table as used for the...

Since I had an Epic Fail in the first thread I thought I might actually attach the .cal file I am using just in case somebody goes with a similar setup to my own. Here is some background for the calibration: 30-1100 AEM EMS 2JZ-GE harness that has been moderately re-pinned AEM 5 bar MAP...

Since I had an Epic Fail in the first thread I thought I might actually attach the .cal file I am using just in case somebody goes with a similar setup to my own. Here is some background for the calibration: 30-1100 AEM EMS 2JZ-GE harness that has been moderately re-pinned AEM 5 bar MAP...

If it was a short it would probably blow a fuse or smoke / I still think you have a bad set of battery cables.

Im moving to SoCal next month - I plan on being there! Hopefully I can throw my car on the dyno and see if it has any balls.

I dont see why not - PS fluid is ATF....

How are you measuring the draw?

Also, is there any way to compare the valve lash on the two cylinders that were not damaged to see if the gap was larger than the 4 that were?

That would point to a mechanical problem - because the intake valves are a bit larger than the exhaust side, they would be the first to strike if both of your cams had the same lift... This is all under the assumption of proper mechanical timing, which I am sure is not an issue because you...

I think its a mechanical problem man - props for staying positive. I have gone through a similar experience but it should all work out in the end. I cant see the pictures where I am at - was the damage restricted to the exhaust or intake side of the pistons?