AEM Cal File for my 2JZ-GE NA-T Swap GT4294

[p5150]

Since I had an Epic Fail in the first thread I thought I might actually attach the .cal file I am using just in case somebody goes with a similar setup to my own.

Here is some background for the calibration:

30-1100 AEM EMS
2JZ-GE harness that has been moderately re-pinned
AEM 5 bar MAP Sensor
GM IAT Sensor
R154
Wiring integrated to MKIII Chassis
7MGTE Cam Position Sensor
2jz/1jz ignitor to AEM C2DI to 2JZGTE coil packs
GT42
1000cc PT Injectors

 

[empera]

will post my set up and cal file hopefully this weekend when car is street tuned. i hope to be dyno tuning in a couple of weeks also.

 

[p5150]

Im having some trouble tuning out some of the problems. I havent really tried too much but Im wondering if anybody has some pointers.

First, the car doesnt really start very easily. I know that the crank injector time table on the engine start section determines the amount of fuel injected during engine start. My question is how much higher it should be than the fuel map settings at idle.

For example, my start raw value is about 100 while the fuel idle value is about 63-79 or so.

You can also see from the cal file my warm up enrichment table.

When the car is warm it seems to have even more trouble starting.

What are some good methods for tuning a startup fuel value?

 

[turbo joe]

The first thing to do is figure out whether it doesn't want to start due to being too rich or too lean.

One thing I do when I can...when the ECU allows it...is to use the cranking fuel vs. throttle function like a fuel trim. I generally set it up as a slope, from sorta rich at closed to "zero" at 2/3 throttle. You can get a handle on what it wants pretty quickly by just moving the pedal a bit. If it starts better at 1/2 throttle, just knock the whole function down a bit and try it again. When you have it right, it'll start sweet at closed throttle.

If it's only difficult at warm ECTs, just mess with the water temp adders/multipliers at that temp.

 

[p5150]

I also dont have a ISC valve installed yet. I have the throttle plate adjusted so that it idles at about 12-1500 once it is warmed up. Im wondering if the fact that I dont have an ISC valve has anything to do with it. It also likes to backfire which is VERY LOUD with my full 4" stainless.

It does want to start easier when I press the pedal a bit (20-30%), but I dont know if it is because im letting more air in? I do have a downward slope on the start raw value for an increase in TPS reading. Should I not consider the throttle plate as a restriction?

 

[turbo joe]

To ME...I would see that as an indication that you're a tad rich in the cranking fuel. I would knock it down a touch and see if you can get it started with less throttle. When it's right, it should start with no throttle at all.

 

[p5150]

What do you think about the boost comp method of tuning a map?

 

[turbo joe]

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/AEM_EMS_Guidebook/Methods_of_tuning

^^^^^^^^ that?^^^^^^^^^^^^

Uhhh...I don't tune that way...I generally tune based on performance and driveability, rather than how the map is laid out...or trying to get a certain air-fuel ratio everywhere.

Honestly...I could care less what the air-fuel is for the most part. Engines don't make the best power when they're either too lean or too rich. I generally look for where it falls off a little on both ends of the lambda and stay closer to the rich end. Never seen a motor that wanted a flat lambda...

For part-throttle, I tune 100% by what it feels and drives like and I err on the side of being a little towards lean. For WOT, as long as it's somewhere halfway sane, I'm good. I think that wide-band lambdas have done more to make cars run badly than any other "upgrade" I can think of. They're a tool that should....no...MUST...be used to tell you where you've been...not where you *should go*.

That's how I roll at least...and I've never blown one up.

 

[tissimo]

I do a hybrid boost comp, and find it extremely easy to tune by. I dont use the throttle mod though, I always have had issues trying to tune that out. I tune the low throttle (vac) areas cell by cell (still using boost comp though). Still gives excellent resolution on the low end and very easy to tune.

 

[p5150]

I do a hybrid boost comp, and find it extremely easy to tune by. I dont use the throttle mod though, I always have had issues trying to tune that out. I tune the low throttle (vac) areas cell by cell (still using boost comp though). Still gives excellent resolution on the low end and very easy to tune.

So do you adjust the Boost Fuel Correct Table to 0% correction below 100 kpa and then adjust it cell by cell or are you still leaving the BFCT to correct fuel to -100% at 0kpa?

And what are you referring to with the throttle mod?

 

[tissimo]

-100% @ 0kpa

In true boost comp, the whole fuel map is very close in vertical columns. Partial throttle tuned via Throttle injector correction table in advanced fuel trims.

Load the stock viper startup cal (labled 1500 press comp), its all ready in boost comp to get an idea of what im talking about

this is my 2jz stock twined cal for what i am refering to in hybrid boost comp

 

[p5150]

thanks tissimo - yeah I understand how the boost comp works but I didnt know what you meant by throttle mod. Now I see what you were saying.

One other question. My RAW fuel value at idle is about 65, and the RAW value for my engine start is at 100. I have attempted moving it up and down but it seems that it will only backfire and refuse to start at settings above or below this.

What is the difference between your raw and engine start values? Or better yet, post a cal

 

[p5150]

Nevermind you already did. Why are you running 1.11?

 

[tissimo]

I never updated since I had the aem in 06 with my 1jz. (updated my software, but not the box. Didn't want to convert my map to 119)

I'm not to sure on the start values stuff. Never really messed with it that much. I had it lower but was hard to start, so just added a bunch of fuel one day and it started up fine (every once in a while would stall though, like 1 out of ever 10 cold starts), never messed with it after that. haha, Guess I got lucky.

 

[chevyeater]

P5150, why is your initial crank pulse tabe all 0? 100 sounds way to high for the crank injector time table also, maybe because you have the initial crank pulse at 0...

Backfiring usually means that either plugs are firing with valves open (ignition timing waaay out) or fuel burning in the manifold (made it past the combustion chamber for some reason like waaaay too much fuel going in or fouled plugs or timing again etc.) and is igniting on hot spots in the manifold. Not a very good sign unless you are trying to use a 2 step or antilag...

 

[p5150]

Thanks for the inputs guys - I will give some changes a shot on my next day off.

Starting it at night can piss of the neighbors.

 

[turbo joe]

It always helps if you offer them rides. You'd be surprised what you can get away with when they "buy in".

 

[p5150]

P5150, why is your initial crank pulse tabe all 0? 100 sounds way to high for the crank injector time table also, maybe because you have the initial crank pulse at 0...

The crank injector time is at 100 - that seems to be where it likes to start. Are you taking into account the micro sec bit? Mine is at 80

And it only backfires when trying to start. Not when running

 

[p5150]

I went back out today and played around with the crank inector settings. Still wont start.

This is frustrating because it was running the other day and now it wont fire. It acts like it wants to start but it wont go - it just backfires.

I thought that I should verify the timing again just to make sure. Im certain that it was set correctly before, but the only problem is that the damn timing mark is being pretty elusive. Perhaps its because the battery was starting to drain a bit.... You guys have any other tips other than what the AEM manual says to set timing?

 

[chevyeater]

The crank injector time is at 100 - that seems to be where it likes to start. Are you taking into account the micro sec bit? Mine is at 80

And it only backfires when trying to start. Not when running

80 is unusually high for the mircoseconds per bit and 100 is abnormally high for the crank injector time table. 0 is absurdly low for the initial crank pulse.

Not sure what you mean about the timing mark bieng elusive. Set the timing in your calibration inside the marks on your cover/balancer so you don't have to dial back the light at all when you are synching the timing.