do you really have the time to take the rotors off, send them to brake planet, get inspected for there "warranty" and then HOPEFULLY get shipped another set of rotors?
I really doubt it... but thats just me, i'll stick to my brembo and my autozone rotors.
put the car in the on position or whatever turns the gauge on, then put an air compressor to the sending unit... if it doesnt read, then you have a bad sending unit. or you need to double check the hosing...
and theres no hosing that goes inside due to it being an electric gauge...
Jawsgear, how come you NEVER offered to re-balance mine for me?... funny.
If you have a steel shaft i dont think your going to be happy, i have pretty noticable vibrations at 60-65mph, goes away at 70 - 95ish and then after 100ish there (but i've only gone to 100mph like twice now)...
wtf? how long has that MK2 been around? thats the FIRST i've head of it... and i've been on her a rather long time now... haha
i would love to own a 7m mk2... but the 240z is a better swa in my mind. haha.
and you have to remember its 500miles of CITY driving. Or like back road mountain driving, you want downshifts, and lots of up shifts. Sitting there at 3,000RPM on the highway isnt breaking it in...
but yeah, you always have to re adjust the pedal due to getting new clutch parts.
you dont boost it right? thats the WORST thing you could probably do to your engine... 1200+ degree exhaust shooting all around the inside of your head... jesus....
i would at the VERY least run a gutted OEM downpipe just to get the exhaust away from everything..
faster with less cash?... if your a cheap o and not looking to make much power yes. But the motor wont last in the long run. Shep tranny is like 2-4k all by its self. then the clutch, flywheel, and new fluid. 5k for a good driveline? lol... clutch and a driveshaft plus some gear oil for the...
Supra > DSM
I sold my DSM to get into the supra game. Even the AWD 1g's are LAME compared to the supra... theres nothing "refined" about them. Although i work on all of my friends for them since im better with those motors than most people.
that source should be fine, thats what i always use, just make sure its SEALED. You dont want a boost leak on the FPR.
but isnt the greddy hooked up to a little black thing to read the boost? you said its electric... so im assuming its a full electric gauge. how wires come off the back of the...
LOL. This thread is great...
its ok, the only reason i know is because i pulled mine out when the engine was on the stand and some coolant came out and my dad got REALLY pissed at me.
i think if its a daily driver, then i would go for the FFIM now, and the maft stuff when you have some time to get it all installed and NOT rush the job. wiring takes time.
but i would go FFIM first. and THEN maft.
you obvisouly have a poor reading level... i said ALMS C5R. Do you know wtf a C5R is? Or go look up the C6R instead since thats what they use now...
Evo's arent the "cure all" for everything... they have some HUGE weaknesses.
Evo. STi. SRT-4. Every owner i've met who currently drives one...
If you are driving 100MPH in the rain thinking "my evo cant hydroplain" then you DESERVE to crash.
And i dont know if any of have ever watched alms, but when i went to the events in CA around me, the C5R was KILLING everything on the track, it even kept up with the "prototype" 1 and 2 cars...
i see now. sorry i like my 7m's... haha
why not go with an rx-7 oil cooler? i dont like the mitbusishi oil coolers, i would rather go with a nice big summit racing oil cooler and then mount it in the front of the radiator...
(i have no a/c so i have plenty of room.)
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