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why not? that just doesn't make any sense to not change the cams out. More power is able to be had with bigger cams.

Fuel pump is running out of steam. They usually start to max out ~ 500, more if you remove the banjo fittings through the fuel system, but not much more then 550whp can be run on a single walbro safely imo.

It might, being a smoother tube/pipe it would cause less turbulence entering the the compressor. But you wont really notice a difference. A reason not to use it is if its cracked.

pull a vac line. I did that with my old honda beater I had, IAC went out, sealed off the IAC and just pulled a vacuum line off. Idled ~ 500 cold and 700 warm. It didn't have a/c so wasn't a huge deal (would of rigged some ghetto VSV for idle up if it had it).

IIRC the 2jz is not removable. I THINK the 7ms is though.

I think ground control makes a sleeve like that that I would trust more. Also who knows what spring you're getting with that.

going by memory the original knock off intercooeler is 3.5" thick and the other is 3" going by the description

I assume its very similar to the 2jz, which the tsrm calls: 7.1psi or more at idle 47-84 psi @ 4000 rpms 60+ psi at idle and 100+ at cruise seems a tad excessive.

several people used that manifold for their cars. AFAIK there were no issues with it. The intake manifold will not fit a LHD car, it hits the brake booster.

imo that oil pressure is way to high, time for thinner oil.

Yes.

Car year: 1991 Induction Type: Turbo Type of Motor: 1jz-gte Transmission: R154 Date Boosted: What? mileage on Boost Date: What? Current mileage: 104k Daily Driver, Seasonal, Weekend Car or Trailer Queen: Weekend Boost Kit (or major component brands if custom): ITS 67mm turbo PSI: 18...

Car year: 1991 Induction Type: Turbo Type of Motor: 2jz-gte Transmission: R154 Date Boosted: What? mileage on Boost Date: What? Current mileage: 125k (when I sold it) Daily Driver, Seasonal, Weekend Car or Trailer Queen: Daily driver Boost Kit (or major component brands if custom)...

Haha, opposite of the local forum I post on. I'm leaning towards the GT35r setup as doing 2x the work sucks.

The clips are different. You will have to shave the little nubs off the side of the injectors to fit the clip. The JDM 440s are Grey in color and High Impedance (high resistance) The USDM 550s are Pink/Purple in color and Low Impedance (Low resistance) and require the resistor pack.

very nice! OT: What color is your car? I'm putting together a 89 hardtop thats going to be my 'drag car' (2jz, th350 etc) and going to paint it blue, and want to make sure its not the same color, lol. I'm probably going to go with Spectra blue from lexus.

the dyno was friday iirc?

Well, I've been working on my buddy Aarons car for a couple weekends and finally took my camera over and grabbed a few pics. We're doing a single swap on it, along with a new harness, ecu (Aristo harness, MKIV Gforce ecu), clutch, and fmic install. the setup right now: Aristo harness...

Well I got a dilemma, and need some help decide on my route to take. Well my plan was to swap my ATS TD06 Turbokit (that I got pretty much for free) onto my red 90 alltrac along with my ST205 A2W IC to hold me over till I'm ready to put my GT35R on along with a FMIC. I was trying to get this...

did you recheck them after putting the new shims in? Then your math wouldn't be in question.