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At least they could get it on the dyno! It sounded like it was serious business. That dyno was definitely jacked up, you're making WAY more power than that. It went from like 3000-7000 in an instant. Nice to meet you, btw

The meet was awesome, anyone not there missed out

Please note, everyone with a 7M powered Supra should stay far away from the Korean :sarcasm:

I should be able to verify he's not reading the WB backwards (:sarcasm:) today

There has to be at least 8, I know Nate already left to come, me and Grant and Caleb are all heading up soon, so unless Jeff, Jon, Matt and Jason don't show up randomly we'll have at least eight lol

I think real Turbo A manifolds were better, and they obviously fit a CT26.

Rest of the world does... Way to go Jay! :thumbsdow :sarcasm:

You can't, I have a 60-1 and my car is pretty lean at 17PSI (low 13s) on 440s. I have higher than stock fuel pressure too, something he doesn't. Doesn't make any sense unless he has bigger injectors.

lolz

They came on the car when he got it, considering the original owners were old people and the second owner bought it just to flip it we expected it to have 440s

Aftermarket boost gauge. Yeah, that's what confused us. That and how the hell he hit 18PSI on a stock 7M AFM

QFT

He has a WB02, MBC

Jeff is all about hardtops, fool

Red and black shift boot.

This, with one or two exceptions

Boris does pretty good without the stock turbo

Depends on what all you replace. Anywhere from a few hundred dollars for the basics to an all out, balls to the wall build totaling 10k

No. You need different motor mounts. As Nick said you can get a 2JZ bell housing for a W58 that would also work for a 1JZ.

1) At LEAST 30 2) 85 Ft/lbs for studs, and use moly for lube. It comes in the box with the studs. 3) No, you have to bore your motor at least 20 thou over to use any of those. They don't come in the stock bore IIRC. Rods should be fine. 4) Everything. Oil pump, water pump, t-stat, all gaskets...