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^That's impressive! What year?

You mentioned everything except the Cam Gear Marks. When the Crank Pulley was at 0, were the Cam Gear Notches aligned with the marks on the Cam Plate? Step #9 of this page. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=29 You're almost there Ron....almost there.... :)

There was one spark of life at the beginning of the vid. That has me leaning towards timing. Double check all of your timing marks including the CPS.

Man there are some high mileage Soups out there. That's awesome! I guess I should include my other two supra's. ;) 87T 114k 89T 117k

Very nice! Waiting for vid...

Mine: 1991 152k miles.

You should go to the person you bought it from....look him in the eye.....and sock him right in the neck! That PCV setup is the reason your rear main is/was leaking and the reason oil is coming out of the dip stick tube.

Harbor Freight sells a spark/coil tester for around seven bucks. That's a safer way of doing it for you and your coils. You also get to see the intensity of the spark.

You're right about the hissing sound. It's just fuel flowing through the rail/fuel system. From here, short it again and look down low for leaks too. Your nose is the best tester when it comes to fuel leaks. You don't smell no gas.....you're probably good to go! :) Glad you got her sealed up!

While 11.5 is considered to be the Highest TQ producing mixture, it is definitely in the danger zone should something go wrong. Why not shoot for 11.0-11.2? It's a safer mixture and the difference in power between that and 11.5 is minimal. If you want to try to squeeze every bit of power out...

Yuck Ron! Well, at least you're still moving forward. Don't forget to pressurize the rail after you get it installed...and...BEFORE you button her all back up! ;)

He cut off the restrictive part. Similar to this... ---------- Post added at 08:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:40 AM ---------- Good job on the car! It looks real nice man! :)

Rear hatch won't open...bust out the back glass. Gas door won't open...remove it. Done...close thread. ;)

Bypassing the heater core is likely not the issue. Is the car low on coolant? What's the level in the overflow doing? What condition is the rad in?

First off, most 1 pc Aluminum DS's are not rated for 120+ so be careful with that. Things that come to mind that could cause what you're describing: Bad U-Joint(s) Un-Balanced DS Un-Balanced Tire(s) Bent Wheel(s) Broken Trans Mount Broken Motor Mount That's all I can think of at the moment...

How did you confirm spark...just by pulling the plug wires?

You're wrong. Dead wrong! What are we talking about again...?

^What he said. Also, did you feel ALL of them "click" into place?

Waiting for that super secret fuel cut box are ya? ;)

As a fellow 1991 owner, I am VERY sorry to see this. There aren't many 91's left...and now one fewer... :( I'd cry to man. Glad you're ok.