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Okay okay get ready for it. PLUG THE ISCV! Then use the throttle screw to make it idle. how about cover the hole and physically watch the thing. Btw, when the engine is hot they basically stay shut. I've NEVER seen a jz ecu broken in regard to idle control. Anyone else seen that?

Stock ignition stock ecu and safc+550cc. You can use either but I like 1j ecu because it revs higher.

The oil hole is slightly off between the two. It doesnt really affect anything as long as it can get through. No probs on mine so far with like 10k miles on it. I used a 1j HG btw.The only part you need that toyota didn't make is a water neck extension. Which I sell (plug plug lol). But yeah...

stock 8mm line shoudl be fine for what youre doing.

It still might not be closing all the way. An idle that raises as you warm up is definitely a constant air leak like an iscv that never moves. Try capping it When hot should idle much lower. Dude I dont even have one so my idle is about 550rpm until hot then guess what? 900 all day.

Thanks for the props guys. That driving sucks for me but I'm okay with it. If I practice more I'll be good again. Btw, I turned the boost back up for street and it sounds way meaner. Maybe I can get sound on a few tunnel pulls or something. Bitch spins 4th now :) JohnD: Yes I have a greddy RS...

So 2 weeks ago I got in some practice with the new stuff. Had the boost low (0.8 bar maybe 370whp) because of shitty tires. I totally suck for the first half. At one point my car ran out of fuel on the track that was funny. I haven't done a single drift in 6 months and the car is totally...

Wow those wheels look much better imo. Nice looking car.

Great story hansel.

My work sells powerFC for 1j. Always in stock too. Sold 5 of them last month. But it's for soarer and jzx90 only.

Really easy way to rule out the regulator. Restrict the return line by pinching it. Get it to like 60 psi. Go boost it a little. As far as the map why not use a meter and watch the voltage? Or put a vacuum pump on it and take down the readings.

you have none to +b because thats the output of the efi relay. Check for power on the other side of the relay's switch. you could even close the switch manually with a piece of wire. Sounds like you need to go through your harness.

If it's broken just wire igsw into mrel to the efi relay. That way at least it'll turn off with the key :)

Solution is wire up mrel circuit. or make a new one right next to the ecu. how about coil side is mrel/ground. Then do your batt/+b circuit on the switch side?

Looks like a demo derby car. Crash pics when?

Are you serious? Batt and +B have nothing to do with it. You're backfeeding +B keeping your efi relay on that's the drain. You could try looking at a diagram some time.

lol@this.

you has PM./

what year? you need the whole book?

x90= 1992-1996 chaser/markII/cresta tourer V. Still got the old motor mounts? Wanna sell them?