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they make turbo kits from like boostlogic, wotm, titanmotorsports, etc for the sc300s that want to turbocharge their cars or you can just piece a turbo kit together for a kit u want but that involves a little more work

you should chech your o2 sensor and your wideband, when mine was acting similar to that my wideband went bad. check your WB o2

man, if the hurricane hits good luck and have a safe trip to your destination

nope, so if i keep starting the motor without priming it by taking out the efi fuse will it rod knock later down the road?

yes that is correct, there is like a 2-3 second delay where you can hear it knock like crazy then it goes away completely. i guess i'll just have to wait till my motor is completely bad then i'll build it or change to a 3.0 block

hey guys, i caught some really good races last night n the night b4! n mong it was good seeing you again, we have to do it again it was fun. i think i'm ready for the turbo mustang and the supercharged mustang now. you'll have to introduce me to them mong so i can race them.

yea it should work just fine

yea i'd run bigger injectors with that setup and maybe just stick to the 3" because my 4" kinda sucks n i kinda wished from time to time i was only 3"

its pretty warm here, 80s-90s during the day sometimes even in the 100s and at night its around 50s-60s and i usually park my car outside. i have single setup but i don't know if my oil pump is bad. whats the thread called maybe i can look at it.

i've tried running moble 1 full synthetic 0w-30 n it didn't help then i switched to 10w-30 full synthetic moble 1 n it was the samething. now i'm kinda out of ideas

it is loud but i don't think it last longer than 2-3 seconds n it doesn't seem normal. i've never heard this happen on anyother motor and i don't want my motor to go bad when it hasn't even been running for a year. if the motor needs time to get oil to circulate, won't that cause damage?

i'm running 10w-30 but am thinking about going thicker, what do you think?

depends on what you want and how much power you want to make. i have a 4" dp n exhaust n sometimes my exhaust scraps the ground. my friends tell me that when i scrap sparks come out like crazy, thats what i don't like about the 4" the ground clearance and my car is not lowered yet

okay i've done that n it didn't work. what i mean by a dry start is when i first start my motor up it sounds like its gonna have a rod knock or it is having a small rod knock, then after a couple of seconds after the motor is started the rod knock sound goes away as if oil fills the motor...

i primed it by taking out the efi fuse and primed it for like a minute then put the fuse back in n started it

okay i've done that too

it was never rebuilt or anything bought the motor used changed the oil left in it, primed it then started it.

can anyone help me out or have any suggeustions?

i am in the OK AR area right on the border. i usually go to fort smith/van buran, fayatteville/springdale, n tulsa area. not much out anymore i wish there was more out

man, i've had a dry start on my 1jz since its been running, which has been like 6-8 months. i don't know how to get rid of it, all i'm doing now to keep it from getting worst is priming the motor before i start it if i haven't driven it for long periods of time. i need to get rid of this before...