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I somewhat disagree. I don't like zerg, but from my knowledge and years of playing the game I understand the nature of the game was to make everything balanced. I think it's all about how you play, not the race you use. Ling rush failed against me. I'd like to play somebody sometime...

The first drives have been great. I'll take a random 45 minute drive tomorrow to be sure, but just based on the amount of airflow while it's on the car right now I'll never have that problem again.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19122/ < 1 of these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19127/ < 2 of these. 5,900 cfm max. 10.1 amp draw max. That's almost twice that of a FAL twin setup for our radiators.

I just swapped out my single puller to three seperate pullers with over 6,000cfm of flow combined with my enormous CSF rad. I'm tired of heat problems. A big IC makes it worse than anything else IMO.

Take a pic of that turbo, let's see it! You can also try removing your intake to the turbo on the dyno and see if the pipe is a restriction. The boost doesn't drop does it? Maybe a weak spring? You should have no problems with 2.5 in/out turbo to TB for that power. You should clear a lot...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAwcel1Eb0s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2XQ97XHjVw

You should be just fine.

It will reach you just have to swap out the connecting end as the 7M style will not work on the JZ TB for cruise control. Different connecting end on the cables. That's how it is on my car anyway!

I think u need a larger turbocharger. Is 25PSI enough? lol. If you install a Bosch 044 pump, it would only make sense. I bet it's a raped ape on the street at that boost though! I can only imagine the spool with the .58 housing. I'm using a 1.06 housing so it's two worlds apart in spool.

I'm looking through my hard copy of the actual Haltech E6K instruction manual that came with my E6K which explains that the trigger can be set for multi-tooth, then just wire in the rear cam sensor for the sync, front crank sensor of course. I imagine I would wire it in and set it up exactly...

I'd like to know what it puts down now that the leaks are fixed! Great numbers despite the leaks. You should pickup some good power man.

Thank you. Awesome! Glad to hear you going single. I can't wait to see this in person.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQUbLN1t338 St. Paul PD. 1:46.

:: facepalm ::

Fake.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQWRXVMOY7I

I agree with ZaZZn. 1J and 2J map sensors are not the same for the reason posted here.

check the timing belt tensioner and tension on the cam/crank bolts first. If they are both good, inspect for crank walk. Also make sure the timing belt guide is on there (JZ), u never know...

A+ Very nice.