Search results

Its prolly from shipping. usually the turbo will have oil in them and oil get into other places. Can do valve stem seals just to be safe.

driftmotion gives you enough to get going. Not enough to for ready to go start raising the boost. I think you need to look into what your actually need to do first. like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGRPe93pGsA

The pinch welds can leak and the oil pan gaskets (fipg)leak as well. Toyota sells the oil pan and sealant.

Theres more to setting it up than picking what sensors your using. It needs to be setup properly before anything else.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?56843-Wheel-Fitment-amp-Question-Thread That thread has all the answers and if it doesnt you can post in there. That said your lacking info to answer your question. And eibachs dont lower the car a whole lot so generally your car run a lot...

Have you checked for codes?> If the ecu does not see engine rpm nothing is going to happen. Might try swapping cps.

Have you made sure everything else is setup properly? And is the problem still there if you turn knock tuning off?.

Its not possible to use a 5m crank in a 7m block. the crank snoutsa are too different. And never heard of anyone using a 5m head on a 7m and dont see why you would. Also you sure its not a 6m crank? 6m crank came in the early 7m's and besides the lighter weight and less counter...

I doubt your break up was due to the air filter. Never heard of that. I think you have some underlieing problems. Have you checked for codes?

Put it in car. pull efi fuse. crank until you have oil pressure. usually 30 sec to 1 min. and then put efi fuse and start engine and let idle. turbos are not meant to hold oil so yes it will go out the exhaust housing.

^that is why you always machine a head when it is pulled..

Could be a bad switch. You can test for continuty using the wiring diagram and pull the climate control off.

Removing timing before full boost will also cause lag. Generally you want a good amount of timing up till about full boost and then back it off and then slowly start adding some in. Could be a reason why your spool time is so late. If your running the .91 divided housing should see full spool...

Kai had issues with no filter on the end of the afm. Have you checked for codes?

The rear subframe was designed to have that play in the rear. but both ronniek and solid spacers will pick up that slack and make the rear more firm. With the alum spacers your going to get a lot of vibrations through the car. Ronniek you wont. He also has different harness to choose from.

Some wil but most wont. It can also cause problems installing it like that as well. It can be done sometimes but its not the proper way of doing it. Just like as with most things on these cars following the manual will insure everything is done correctly.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=140

They have a section but no longer keep updating the codes but there easily googled for.

generally you want to keep the main bolted and torqued to the block at all times. Also want to make sure there in the same place everytime.

Use the mls gasket. the composite ones tend to blow out.