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Tires can make the car squirrely too. When I switched to a lower profile setup the car became much more sensitive to road conditions, especially under hard braking.

LMFAO @ superhero's story. A 4 year old car that sold for $30k left to rot in the garage because of a BHG, which would have been covered under the powertrain warranty. Hmmm, yeah okay. :biglaugh:

Well, hopefully there is no "next" time!

Nice looking head. If there's happens to be a "next time" for head work you might want to consider adding ARP sleeve washers given how much effort you put in it. Here for more details http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?683040-finally-an-answer-to-the-7m-head-gasket-issue

The blower resistor network is attached to the bottom of the plenum after you remove the trim panel under the glove box. It is held on by one or two screws. Very simple repair if that is your problem.

I wasn't too far from there a few months ago. We have a factory in Presteigne that makes specialty circuit boards. Anyway, if the temp and tach are working, then the power source should be good as they all share it.

No, its related to the IDL signal, and also AC and neutral safety switch on autos.

You mean code 52, not 51. There are multiple causes for setting code 52, and they set differently. However, the effect is the same, you get the full maximum allowed knock retard hit to timing. Its a 2d map, so the actual pulled timing depends on load and rpm, but it can be as large as 15 degrees.

I believe the 92 has the 15 pin, but I've included the older 14 pin and newer 20 pin connectors as well. All of these are interchangeable since they have the same basic signals.

Its hard to discuss the fuel calcs without the overall picture of the ECU engine model, and I will write up a more detailed explanation of the fuel calcs soon. After a cold start the ox sensor reads lean (0V) and won't do anything until it heats up to about 300C. During this time the ECU uses 4...

Yes they do. The JDM ECU has O2 sensor heater control logic and fuel trim versus O2 so I am assuming it also has a cat. Is that not true?

You mean like this.... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?63192-Show-us-your-GAUGES!&p=1673239&viewfull=1#post1673239

It is electrical. It is slow by design, there is a low pass filter on the boost signal input. Here is a writeup on changing it. www.freewebs.com/supraboost/files/1bar%20boost%20gauge.doc

If bearings are loose, you can't measure or set clearances accurately. The springs load the cam unevenly and result in the cam moving relative to the valves depending on rotation position.

Nitrogen is a non-condensable, you don't want it in your system. Its fine to blow out the system with dry nitrogen, but you need to vacuum it out before charging, or it will impact system efficiency significantly. more info here... http://www.refrigerants.com/pdf/NRInews-Smr11.pdf

Lubricate the injector o-rings when installing. I think Toyota recommends using gas as the lube.

Okay, good, some progress. B+ is actuated by the ECU itself through the main relay. You need to figure out why the main relay is not actuating. The ignition switch (IGSW) input should turn on the MREL output from the ECU, which then controls the main relay. Check BATT has 12 V all the time...

R134 and R12 driers use different materials. The drier also has a filter so there is no way you want to reuse it. Pulling a vacuum is not optional, you need to get out the non-condensable gases from it having been opened up, as well as moisture that can cause long-term internal damage. The...

or cam bearings..... which are easy to measure too with the engine apart. The standard 7M test for rod knock is to remove one spark plug at a time and rev to 2500 rpm. If the noise goes away then that rod is bad.

new receiver drier is mandatory.