The gray wire on the m1 plug on the body harness needs to go to the w pin on the Ecu. Then ground te1 and your codes will flash and the check engine light will work properly
The leak down test will tell you where it's leaking from. That's the whole point of it. So if it was leaking 10-25% into the crank case it's the rings. Either bad rings or not properly broken in.
Valve stem seals usually smoke on cold start up but can smoke non stop if there really bad.
It's most likely targa seals if you have targa.
There is no seal for the black plastic pieces at the back of the window.
For the rear it could be tail light seals which is most common. Or hatch seal or windows them selves.
It's supposed to do that.
Iac is always pulled to max open when car is shit down. Ecu will start closing it once started and then closes it more and more until you reach operating temp.
It give the high idle to speed up warm up times.
Cost me around 3300 done and running with stock twins. Most parts new. Including dm stage 3 clutch. Lightweight flywheel. And bell housing. Those were the most expensive parts in the whole swap.
You need to resurface the block for a mhg to seal properly.
The scouring is common but not normal. Personally I would look for a better head as that could cause problems down the road.
Ya you cannot re pack them.
You either use a slide hammer to pull the hub off or press it off it and the bearing has to be pressed off unless you have the nice wheel bearing removal and installation tool which is around 5-600$(and you wouldnt have had to pull the knuckle off the car either)...
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