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This has got to be the first winter I'm not doing an engine swap in the snow or something like that. Its not over yet though... If you could use any help with the JZ let me know, i've done quite a few swaps.

It doesn't actually go very far into the harness... if you follow the wire it just goes into the harness for a few inches and then comes back out on the passenger side. Its supposed to connect to another wire in that area behind the passenger headlight and then run under the radiator support to...

The stud on the alternator connects up to the harness where the original 7m alternator connected over by the battery. If you haven't done it yet, you'll have to extend that wire across the engine bay to the other side to hook it up.

The odometer runs off the same cable as the speedometer, fix the cable and they'll both start working.

Unfortunately the stock gauge is basically useless. After installing an aftermarket gauge its pretty funny to see what the stock gauge considers 'normal' range. In a supra, if the gauge moves at all after its warmed up, something is wrong.

Check your ALT fusible link & fuses. Also make sure the main power wire from the alternator is still connected up, since you have to extend it in the 1jz swap it might have disconnected somewhere.

When you got Google voice just so you could have a phone number with 'supra' in it.

The condensation could also just be from an engine that was likely sitting for a while before you bought it, combined with the low temperatures.

No, the w58 driveshaft won't work with the r154 and vice versa.

It contains the wiring for the sub throttle sensor, which basically is used to detect faults in the TPS. So while it's not required, it could be useful.

Is this causing your check engine light to stay on? Generally, it shouldn't, which is why I'm asking. Disabling the speed input to the ECU usually only causes a CEL over ~124mph. As far as I can tell, the speed input to the ECU is only used for the speed cut. So having it disconnected won't...

Jason, I recommend considering Northeast Auto machine in Wethersfield if they're still in business (their website seems to have gone defunct). They built my old 7m along with many, many others. It cost me $1600 to have my engine rebuilt top to bottom with a cometic mhg, new bearings and seals...

The cause of your low power at idle might just be poor/worn grounding. If the alternator is still capable of charging the battery and regulating power, it seems like its fine.

Yes, you will need a resistor pack wired in with the injectors to run the mk4 550's. You can use the stock pack that comes with either mk3 or mk4 supras. Also, I noticed you didn't say anything about a boost controller. You're going to need a manual or electronic one to run the kind of boost...

400hp on 440's is doable, but personally I think it's pushing it. The 440's are on the JDM 2jz. I would suggest going with the US 2jz 550's instead, along with a good fuel pump and regulator. Otherwise, with a freeflowing intake and exhaust I expect 400hp would be no problem on that setup. I was...

You're running 550's on a stock ECU with no tuning device? Yeah, that could definitely be the problem.

Might not have the red car much longer, working on something new. :naughty:

Could be the waterpump, I had one fail and start making a tapping noise once.

I agree with Mike here, it is a good bang for the buck setup. I'd like to add that I've since discovered that a spacer is not needed if you run two Aristo rear housings, since the rear is 3/8" longer than the front housing. This means that the only custom part you need is a downpipe. I have also...

The US 2jz turbo's are CT-12b's, JDM 2jz turbo's are the CT20's. The CT20's are much closer to working with the 1jz than the CT12b's. Also, I have a set of CT20's set up to go on the 1jz that i'd be willing to part with. :icon_bigg