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Make sure you pull the blue boots off the bottoms of the coils, it is very common for cracks to form beneath them.

x2 on checking your coilpacks, also, what gap are you running? Also, you don't have to replace the coilpacks if they are cracked, I used epoxy to seal the cracks on mine 3 years ago and it's been fine.

Whatever set up you go with, we're putting your car back on the road in the spring, deal? :icon_bigg BTW congrats on the job!

G305 is the 3.73 rear end.

As far as I know, automatic cars came with the same rear diff as manual. The only difference was if you had a turbo car or N/A, and it was also dependent on the year. A 7m (6500 redline) running stock tire sizes and a 3.73 rear end would have a 171mph max speed. These top speed numbers don't...

About 188mph or 302 kph. Assuming you have a 3.73 differential.

Sounds like your ECU doesn't have power, or the wiring to your dash isn't right. Since you don't have spark I think it's more likely the ECU doesn't have power. You have the connector in the engine bay all wired up right? One way to test if you have any power in the ECU circuit is to turn the...

Open the side of the ECU with 5 screws, unscrew the board under it, and then flip it up and away from you so you are looking at the top of both boards. The cap you are looking for is at the bottom right of the upper board, near where the two boards are joined. It is the only electrolytic cap on...

I'm going to go with the guess there is still something wrong with your ecu. Check specifically the area around the only electrolytic capacitor that is not on the main board. When I originally replaced my caps, my car still threw code 14 (no IGF signal). Upon further inspection I noticed that a...

This is just a guess, but I lost a 2jz-ge once to hydro lock because the 4th cylinder injector fired constantly and flooded it. The cause was a bad ECU. If your car doesn't have any fuel mods that could cause this, I would check the ECU first.

The crank sensor plug is right near the alternator. It's a two wire plug, the sensor itself is in the side of the block on the passenger side right behind the crank pulley.

While i'm pretty sure the 7m igniter grounds through the bracket, the 1jz one doesn't seem to do that. I've had one hooked up hanging free and the car still ran. Check your codes. Make sure your crank position sensor is hooked up.

There are wiring diagrams for the 1jz harness to 90+ plugs, and one for 1jz harness to 87-89 plugs. From those two diagrams you can figure out what has to be done, but there is no diagram for it. http://1jz.com/tech/docs/wiring/

If you clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse, this resets the computer and it 'relearns' some information about the car after its been run again. Its generally accepted that letting it idle for a short period of time and then driving spiritedly is enough for the computer to finish learning...

Unfortunately in CT, the only cars exempt from emissions are the ones over 25 years old. No such thing as a collectors registration. Jason, you are getting me worried with the wire in the engine bay thing, I wonder if they have new testing procedures in place...

Well, some of the extra pins on the main plug go to different plugs. For example, the 90+ B1 plug has the progressive power steering wires included in it. The 89 progressive wires are on their own plug, the one you have pictured with only two wires going to it.