Search results

Call wedge

Best way to check cvs? Scanned over the tsrm but just saw instructions on disassembly.

I'd like to add that this only happens on take off not while shifting gears.

Trans seems fine all the gears move in and out freely, well besides second sometimes and reverse but they are bastards on every r154 ive driven. When i do the clutch ill pull the trnny out and check everything out. thanks for the info guys

So I searched extensively for a situation that somewhat closely resembled mine and nothing, bringing me here 1JZ R-154 Single Piece Aluminum Driveshaft So ever since i bought this certain car, there has always been a weird noise. The noise can be best described as a loud clunk and ping...

bic makes it im interested

the silencer you pictured is the one that came with my nurspec.

just would like to say to you, do not do what everyone else wants you to do, you want the twins? keep em, but be warned they may have issues. Do what you want to the car, hell its you and your dads car, all the guys on this forum aren't driving your car, you are. Have fun and enjoy the car.The...

im still laughing lol

well i checked the wheel bearing and it was clicking pretty heavily. So ill replace that and go from there and check out the brake suggestions and make sure i lube everything up during reassembly.

Driveshaft is a steel one piece

Issue: car makes a noise, best way to describe it is sort of a wobble. I know it is not engine related as if I pull the clutch and let the car to to idle, the noise is still present. My car has no rear interior in it so it makes it fairly easy to hear the noise coming from the rear. Only thing...

Look like Evo 8,9 seats to me

I have a jade mica green 1jz car that i am converting to all TTR interior. Correct me if i am wrong but the wheel along with the shift knob are both made by momo. Ive seen plenty of photos of the wheel, but none of the shift knob. Im trying to make the car a complete outside to inside TTR and a...

Answer to my issue was in previous post. The actual pin in the ECU is not getting power to the board. So the copper tract on the ECU pin MREL is not receiving power. Somewhere in the ECU the copper tract is damaged or not making contact with a capacitor or internal electric piece.

ended up going back to the ecu. Checked the power on the actually posts in the ecu and the mrel was not recieving power. So i need to follow the lead and see if i can fix it.

Tried that first, it works just fine, but no offense to anyone that's a half assed way of fixing the issue. Just traced wiring to the fp relay which has no continuity across two terminals. Thanks for the tip, if I hadn't of figured that one out you'd be my lifesaver! Lol

So got a new ignition switch just for piece of mind i knew it wouldnt fix the problem but put the new one in and started checking stuff with the test light. With the switch in the run position, it is still not sending power to the EFI main relay. I tested all the terminals on the back of the...

When I opened the ECU, the only issues I saw was a capacitor or two leaking, which instead if replacing just the bad ones I replaced all of them. Upon further inspection of the board I really didn't see anything that would cause alarm. Although I did see some fluid type residue kind of scattered...

Checked the Main EFI Relay due to the ecu not getting power. Checked the orange black wire from the relay to the ECU, continuity is good. Checked to see if im getting constant power at the terminal that needs it for the relay and i am. Checked the terminal on the relay that provides power with...