Update, u need shielding on the cam wire back to the MS3x card, it should come shielded but it doesn't. I used twisted shielded fire alarm wire and it fixed me right up.
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Megasquirt thread: Megasquirt and You
- Thread starter gennro
- Start date
Thanks to niw got my ms3pro running great on my 1j bmw. Using diy water\air temp sensor also their jeep iac.
Is their anyone out their running a fairly agressive timing map for a 1j that I can take a look at. Right now is running great at 13psi on a weak 2j timing map but I feel like their is a lot more in it. and. It will be awhile befor it sees a dyno. Thanks in advance
Is their anyone out their running a fairly agressive timing map for a 1j that I can take a look at. Right now is running great at 13psi on a weak 2j timing map but I feel like their is a lot more in it. and. It will be awhile befor it sees a dyno. Thanks in advance
I had spun a bearing and getting the car almost ready to drive again. This time around I added a second fuel rail to run dual fuel with the staged injection feature. Ill run E10 pump gas on 525 injectors and E98 staged through 1100cc injectors. Calculators show itll be close to E70 so it should still be a blast to drive with the fuel economy of pump gas.
i think i seen your post on msextra! is that a Volvo? and do you have anti lag option turned on for your setup? reason why i asked is because i have a thread on msextra asking about how to setup the switch but i'm not getting any solid answers. btw that bay look sweet
yep, ive posted over there. Your 2 pole switch will work just fine. On my last setup i used the clutch switch for als between shifts. als is hard on turbos, and my current one wasnt cheap, so i dont use als with megasquirt, I use the 2 step with retarded timing to make about 5psi off the line. I tried nlts but the car makes to much power at 25psi to hit the next gear with.
hahahaha i only now just noticed who i'm talking to. yeah i had that problem with my old setup when i was on the factory ecu. only @13psi that damn hx40would kick like a mule and break my tires loose. so between the anti lag and 2 step which you like better?
for those of you that want to run full sequential fuel and ignition, i teamed up with a guy named TerrenceLP and he is a pretty cool guy! we pretty much got rid of our entire engine harness and we eliminated what we don't need or want to get rid of all the unnecessary wire clutter. we are reusing all the toyota relays like factory as you will see in the diagrams below. anyway i just want to post the diagram i drew up to make it easier for others if they decide to take this route.
notice the left 7m resistor box is paired while the one on the right which is Acura legend Box is individual resistors. they are on ebay really cheap.
I COMPLETELY REMOVED the Toyota ECU (TCCS) from the harness.
I then wired up my Custom Wire Harness using the B1, C1 and M1 connectors.
B1 & C1 Referenced below
C1 - Thin gauge black/orange -> connect to -> B1 Thin gauge black/orange
B1 - Thin gauge black/orange -> connect to MS 12v power
B1 - Small gauge green (FC) -> connect to MS Fuel Pump wire
B1 - Large gauge black/orange -> 12v for connection to Injectors and coils (*I'm not using IAC or CSI, these can also be powered by this)
B1 - Large gauge black/blue - 12v for Starting. Remove and leads to the TCCS and run directly to the starter
notice the left 7m resistor box is paired while the one on the right which is Acura legend Box is individual resistors. they are on ebay really cheap.
I COMPLETELY REMOVED the Toyota ECU (TCCS) from the harness.
I then wired up my Custom Wire Harness using the B1, C1 and M1 connectors.
B1 & C1 Referenced below
C1 - Thin gauge black/orange -> connect to -> B1 Thin gauge black/orange
B1 - Thin gauge black/orange -> connect to MS 12v power
B1 - Small gauge green (FC) -> connect to MS Fuel Pump wire
B1 - Large gauge black/orange -> 12v for connection to Injectors and coils (*I'm not using IAC or CSI, these can also be powered by this)
B1 - Large gauge black/blue - 12v for Starting. Remove and leads to the TCCS and run directly to the starter
Ive been working with dual fuel setups and staging in a second set of injectors. Its working really well. I have no staging to about 8 psi so I can run on the 525 primarys, then I stage in the 1100 secondarys 100% by 190kpa. I have a piggy back race tank in the car and Im running 92 pump in the primarys, and I stage in E98 from the second tank and mix about an E70 mixture in the intake runners. I have the engine tuned to 15psi at this point, but need to rework the timing map before I get to much farther.
Its great being able to cruise around on pump gas and get great mileage on the freeway, but get the benefits of ethynol under boost and make big power.
Its great being able to cruise around on pump gas and get great mileage on the freeway, but get the benefits of ethynol under boost and make big power.
Got my 1jz with ms3x running. Need to start tuning and get all the idle settings and part throttle cruise tuned and then go to the dyno prolly later this year. Going to see what kind of numbers I can get with 440's and a mk4 pump with a 6262 for minimal amount of money spent.
Have the Toyota 6 wire isc working with all wires connected as well.
Have the Toyota 6 wire isc working with all wires connected as well.
I ordered the ms3x diy kit for my 7m on sat.. After Looking over the stuff diy offers I am unsure if I should be getting the knock module kit as well....
hvyman;1968766 said:
Thats great news. Have you gotten anywhere with street tuning? Hows the 6262 feel on that motor?
jdmfreak;1968993 said:
Personally I would run knock control. Can be a bit tricky to get setup, but overall pc of mind. Im running the Bosch wideband sensors and without any knock correction, or able to log knock percent (which i think is a fancy term for knock voltage) and help your tune based on that.
Im almost ready to work with map switching, and how the rpm and load points are broken, I made a 26x31 ve table.
Thought I would update and let you guys know what Im trying. I already posted that Im staging in E98 to mix E70 in the combustion chamber, but its mixed with 92 pump rather than 87 pump like normal E85 so timing can be close to a true E85, but I was looking for more resolution in rpm and boost since I need close to 350kpa, but I drive the car daily and want a smooth vacuum map. So I have enabled map switching and have created VE1 to have moslty vacuum and VE3 with mostly boost with a 3000rpm switch point. Theres an effective 26x31 map table, now VEAL can really dial in the vacuum side and I can give the motor what it wants under boost with 2-300rpm break points.
The guys that feel comfortable enough to try that out, I highly recomend doing it for a day just to see. My drivabilty improved alot and the table switching is seamless.
The guys that feel comfortable enough to try that out, I highly recomend doing it for a day just to see. My drivabilty improved alot and the table switching is seamless.
Hey quick question which of the spark output selections should I wire up as if I will be using stock coil packs?
Do I even have to do anything internally at this point? Since I am not using a single high current spark...
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No. You use the spark outputs from the 3x plug as they just go to signal the igniter.
I havnt done too much reading on 7m but I believe you would run it like.
Wasted spark in the ignition settings and then
Spark a to the 1-6 coil
Spark b to the 2/5 coil
Spark c to the 3/4 coil.
I havnt done too much reading on 7m but I believe you would run it like.
Wasted spark in the ignition settings and then
Spark a to the 1-6 coil
Spark b to the 2/5 coil
Spark c to the 3/4 coil.
