I am glad you mentioned seat belts because when it rains and I get in my MK3 and put my seat belt on I can feel there is about a 6 in section of the belt that is wet and it's the part of the belt that goes over my chest and shoulder area. Any ideas on how I can fix that leak or is it somehow normal lol. I also want to change my belt retractors do I have to replace the entire seat belt or is the retractor a piece that can be replaced on its own?
What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
- Start date
Yea it is a targa I did the targa leak fix with 3M weather sealant but my passenger side still leaks if I brake firmly in the rain. I do plan on getting all new seals for the entire cabin section the front, back, and both sides of the targa.
Yea I'll order them soon.
Here is the video of me losing to the cobalt on a short run I was close until shifting that's when he pulled ahead and then I had traffic.
[video=youtube;cJ3B7eTHHc4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJ3B7eTHHc4[/video]
Here is the video of me losing to the cobalt on a short run I was close until shifting that's when he pulled ahead and then I had traffic.
[video=youtube;cJ3B7eTHHc4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJ3B7eTHHc4[/video]
so today's dilemma; 87 MK3, 1JZ stock turbos + Ebay ypipe + MK4 motor mounts = immanent brake line destruction/ horrible noise
Remove charcoal canister + EBC solenoid + filter/intake + VSV assembly = to remove sheild/solution time
in my hand is the OEM bracket and in its place is a spare that should be located behind the cylinder head (same one)
then that led to 'clearance-ing' the heatsheild, AKA - cut it in half, get the other one and cut it in half too... add glue...
now I didn't take a photo of the primer drying while it lies on the floor, but you get the gist, obviously I'll have to 'adjust' the lines again to fit everything back and make it look nice
Remove charcoal canister + EBC solenoid + filter/intake + VSV assembly = to remove sheild/solution time
in my hand is the OEM bracket and in its place is a spare that should be located behind the cylinder head (same one)
then that led to 'clearance-ing' the heatsheild, AKA - cut it in half, get the other one and cut it in half too... add glue...
now I didn't take a photo of the primer drying while it lies on the floor, but you get the gist, obviously I'll have to 'adjust' the lines again to fit everything back and make it look nice
Drake69, do you have any rubbing on your mishi radiator from the hood? I made sure my mounts at the bottom where good. It's just the black insulation leaving marks on the passenger side corner furthest from the engine. Also what rad cap is that? Looks better than the leaky one I received with the rad but my old stock one doesn't seem to fit, clean ass set up btw tho!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I found out why my engine wasn't boosting well...
For those who can't see it, the bolt holding the wastegate actuator to the turbo backed out and fell off, preventing the wastegate from shutting all the way. Thank God it wasn't something more important. Now I might be able to boost to 20 again!
For those who can't see it, the bolt holding the wastegate actuator to the turbo backed out and fell off, preventing the wastegate from shutting all the way. Thank God it wasn't something more important. Now I might be able to boost to 20 again!
drogon;1996167 said:
Thanks! No rubbing tho, it sits pretty comfortable, although I think we had to take it in some at the bottom bushings to set it in lower then before. Rad cap is stock from Mishi, and it seals up pretty well.
After literally years of unconfirmed suspicion, a seal replacement attempt, multiple resistance tests, and a few failure to start episodes I can finally confirm my CPS is bad. G1 coil is reading 200k ohms or more.
In trying to find the source of my starting problem I also tested the igniter power transistor for the first time. It's a painful test to setup, but now I know my igniter, coils and wiring are all good.
For future reference to others, my diagnostic code was 14, "Ignition Signal".
I've got a Cardone reman unit from Autozone on the way. I'd love to buy new Toyota, but $500-$600+ isn't in my Supra budget this year and Autozone had a 20% off sale. I'm calling it fate and trying the cheaper reman unit.
In trying to find the source of my starting problem I also tested the igniter power transistor for the first time. It's a painful test to setup, but now I know my igniter, coils and wiring are all good.
For future reference to others, my diagnostic code was 14, "Ignition Signal".
I've got a Cardone reman unit from Autozone on the way. I'd love to buy new Toyota, but $500-$600+ isn't in my Supra budget this year and Autozone had a 20% off sale. I'm calling it fate and trying the cheaper reman unit.
I thought my CPS was leaking oil so I bought a Cardone one from amazon but turns out it wasn't leaking from there. I have been thinking about putting my old OEM one back in but might as well leave the refurbished Cardone in the car. Haven't had any problems with it for about a year now.
suprarx7nut;1996237 said:
A code 14 is not CPS related. That would be a code 12 or 13. Code 14 is no IGf feedback, which is an ignition issue.
