What did you do to your supra today? Pics

Austin2048

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May 31, 2013
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Front axle is done. Having trouble getting one of the rear calipers off. Im probly just gonna say screw rear brakes for now because the 90 had a stuck brake caliper in the rear which made for unevenly worn pads. So ill need new pads for one side but they come in sets of 4 so might as well do the whole axle.

But holy crap. With the old struts I used to be able to rock my car like a boat in water and now when I do that to my front end it doesn't budge.

8uby4u4u.jpg


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Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Numba1Stuna;1969542 said:
Haha thanks bro, traded my S10 for it.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/13/6eqy8ute.jpg[IMG]
Jumped about 6k in book value lol. I'll probably end up selling it and putting it towards a mkiv lol.

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Just don't become one of those douchebag MK4 owners
 

Austin2048

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So the front struts pretty much fell right out. This back one was a bitch to get out and I still can't get the bottom to line up right

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Doat

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Austin2048;1969575 said:
So the front struts pretty much fell right out. This back one was a bitch to get out and I still can't get the bottom to line up right

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You and I have a lot in common when working on our poopra, never goes according to plan. Maybe the Joker is involved.
 

Austin2048

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May 31, 2013
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There's this damn ring thing on the bottom strut mount and it sticks out of the hole a little on both sides. Its making it so the strut won't fit. I tried banging it out and I tried to get a file in there but its not easy since the strut is already screwed in from the top and the upper control arm is in place

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Grandavi

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Sep 25, 2008
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Austin2048;1969570 said:
Front axle is done. Having trouble getting one of the rear calipers off. Im probly just gonna say screw rear brakes for now because the 90 had a stuck brake caliper in the rear which made for unevenly worn pads. So ill need new pads for one side but they come in sets of 4 so might as well do the whole axle.

But holy crap. With the old struts I used to be able to rock my car like a boat in water and now when I do that to my front end it doesn't budge.
I
8uby4u4u.jpg


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Okay I'm going to say something... Your comment about doing both sides because "it comes with 4 pads" scares the crap out of me.
The brakes are never done single sided... Always in pairs and if you don't understand that, quite honestly get a professional to do them. It's the one component of the car you don't want done ghetto...

If I were you I would be replacing the calipers, pads and rotors. They don't look healthy in the pic. You do that and your set for a loooong time. In my life my brakes have failed twice and both times I just barely avoided a nasty accident by some wicked maneuvering mixed with a really quick prayer and a couple four letter words
 

Austin2048

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Grandavi;1969582 said:
Okay I'm going to say something... Your comment about doing both sides because "it comes with 4 pads" scares the crap out of me.
The brakes are never done single sided... Always in pairs and if you don't understand that, quite honestly get a professional to do them. It's the one component of the car you don't want done ghetto...

If I were you I would be replacing the calipers, pads and rotors. They don't look healthy in the pic. You do that and your set for a loooong time. In my life my brakes have failed twice and both times I just barely avoided a nasty accident by some wicked maneuvering mixed with a really quick prayer and a couple four letter words

I didn't know brakes should be done in pairs. No one ever told me, so I'm glad you did.

The rotors just have a bit of surface rust on them from sitting on the parts car for awhile. There will come a time when I'll buy new calipers, pads, and rotors but right now I'm broke and will be broke for awhile

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Grandavi

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Sep 25, 2008
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Generally speaking our cars have an excellent braking system, but you should do a little research on the correct method of doing the brakes. Little things mean a lot. If your rotors are still within spec you can have them turned for about 10-15 bucks per rotor. At the very least you can scuff them up with sand paper to remove the rust and glassiness to give a better pad to metal surface (if you do it by hand just scuff them evenly)
At the absolute minimum you should clean and lubricate the caliper slider pins as well to prevent them from locking up (parts stores usually have tiny packets of grease for this for about a buck)

Our brakes have springs between the pad and the caliper to help keep them from clattering that are a PITA to get in. I taped them onto the pads to hold th in place and pulled the tape off afterwards. There is probably a simple technique but that's what I did... Lol.

Google is your friend but not always. I find the tech sections here to be great sounding boards for work. This area is meant more for updates rather than finding the proper techniques. A simple "what should I know about brake replacement" thread in the appropriate area can give you the info you need.

For the first time I do brakes on a car that has frozen calipers and look poorly maintained I start with fresh pieces. I think my fronts cost me just under 300 in parts. It's cheaper in the US
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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Atlanta
A caliper rebuild kit is about $10-$15. That gives you the piston seals, dust boots, pad clips and slider dust boots, in most cases.
If you have a sticking caliper, i would go this route at a minimum.
 

Sside

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May 20, 2008
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Austin2048;1969584 said:
I didn't know brakes should be done in pairs. No one ever told me, so I'm glad you did.

The rotors just have a bit of surface rust on them from sitting on the parts car for awhile. There will come a time when I'll buy new calipers, pads, and rotors but right now I'm broke and will be broke for awhile

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If you cant afford new brake rotors, pads, and calipers then you cant afford the car...... These cars don't do well with "Ill fix it later"..... Or "Its just for now" ...... They are old and everyday that passes does not help.... Do it right or park the car until you have the money to do it right...... If you cant afford this then you surely wont be able to afford what's to come.......
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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Austin2048;1969579 said:
There's this damn ring thing on the bottom strut mount and it sticks out of the hole a little on both sides. Its making it so the strut won't fit. I tried banging it out and I tried to get a file in there but its not easy since the strut is already screwed in from the top and the upper control arm is in place

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Use a punch and hammer it over. All it is is a bushing that slides in and out so that the strut will always fit tight on the bottom.

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Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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I plan on upgrading my brakes a bit with new rotors and pads I was thinking Stoptechs but they are slotted and there really is no need for that on a street car.
 

Doat

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yhatzee89;1969617 said:
They look good behind a set of nice rims

jdmfreak;1969618 said:
Don't understand why not
They do look nice but the slits are there to help the pads from warping or when they warp the slots adjust that. Don't really want to be shaving my brakes on the street lol.

So I got in my MK3 it was raining earlier this morning and found out my targa is slightly leaking I spotted some drops of water hanging from the driver rear bolt housing and a drop hanging from the passenger front corner. I hate targa leaks!!! Any suggestions on fixing this? I followed a guide that involves removing the seals and putting silicone on the targa then put the seals back on and that seemed to fix my leak but now this is a new beast. I am thinking of just buying new seals that go onto the frame of the body the ones on the front and back of the targa but they are expensive.
 

Grandavi

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Sep 25, 2008
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I got Brembo non slotted, non drilled rotors. 200.00 a piece up here.. but they wear very very well. I have never had an issue with warped brakes on any Supra I have owned. Mind you, I usually do the brakes first thing when I buy them (unless they were new and I haven't seen that yet.. lol). A properly done brake will not warp. Personally Im not a fan of slotted or drilled rotors.

Regarding the targa seals, they don't seem that expensive (not the ones I found anyway), especially considering if you redo them once, your not going to have to worry for the next 20+ years.
 

Dan_Gyoba

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Aug 9, 2007
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Drilled and/or slotted rotors eat pads faster. Since I don't track my car, why would I increase my maintenance costs unnecessarily? With regular rotors, I have never hit brake fade, and there's always been enough brake to engage the ABS, so I've always had enough braking. Better braking for me right now would be buying better tires.

A couple hundred dollars for targa seals seems like a lot, but isn't really. It's something that you will probably never have to do again on your car, particularly if you take care of them. The problems are if you're doing them after someone else has tried to do it on the cheap with silicone. :( That was my experience, and it wasn't pleasant, but I enjoy not having puddles in the car anymore.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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I thought the targa seals were more than that I must have been remembering the price of something else I looked up. I looked up quotes on SF and yea they are about 200 bucks, so I'll just order new seals all around and re-do my targa leak fix with 3M weather adhesive goop.

Yea that's why I don't want slotted or drilled rotors on my car since I will only start tracking it a bit when I am finished with my suspension/brakes at the very least and I got a long way before I get to that point.