What exhaust is that?sprigmo1;1964256 said:
Spent 7 days cleaning inside and out
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What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
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I am looking for a catback system that isn't very loud but I have a muffler that looks just like an Apexi N1 I was thinking of buying a 3in high flow cat and getting my guy to weld up a catback.
I like the driftmotion setup. Sounds amazing and looks pretty good too.
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Wish I still had my Greedy.... Sounded smoother... Lower tone..
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I blew the motor at the end of 06`.. figured I rebuild the whole thing myself... Then I had the battle with cancer... And a multitude of other things I had no control over... Finally it's back together and I'm working out the kinks.
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I have a quick question I want to make sure I got this correctly. I have a 3in divorced downpipe hooked up to the stock catback and I hit fuel cut at stock boost. If I just install the Lexus AFM I should not hit fuel cut but I will be running lean at WOT right? and to correct the mixture I just need 550cc injectors and a fuel pressure regulator? Also what if I ported the wastegate on the turbo would that be a better way of stopping my fuel cut? I do have a Blitz dual SBC boost controller so I can maintain boost with that and I have a boost gauge as well.
do NOT install the afm without the injectors. just put in the afm and 550's, and you'll be fine. i was hitting fc at anything over 8 psi, and now i can pull 17psi with no problems. i have a 3"ddp, full 3" exh, k&n filter, and a greddy boost controller.
i checked the afr's with an innovate wideband, and everything looks great. you don't need the afpr or walbro at this point.
i checked the afr's with an innovate wideband, and everything looks great. you don't need the afpr or walbro at this point.
Thanks I'll be looking to getting some injectors then. You do have to solder the clips right? I have always heard you have to do that with injectors I have not seen any drop and play ones.gsxr141;1964548 said:
Installed new targa seals. Well, most of them.
A previous owner did some pretty egregious things to them. The front and rear had silicone all over them. I was prepared for that. I removed as much of the silicone as I could. The ones on the side though took my by surprise. They're glued into the top channels, and had silicone between the drip rails and the actual roof. I only replaced the passenger side, as I ran out of time to scrape the glue from the rail. I'll get to the driver's side tomorrow. Anyway, it's the front and rear seals that were leaking, so this ought to take care of it.
@Doat: You probably need to change the clips, but solder isn't the best way. Crimping the connectors is the correct way to do automotive wiring. Solder creates a weak point where the rigid solder ends, and the wire can't flex properly, so it breaks more easily. That said, a good solder job is going to last longer than a poor crimp job, but a good crimp job is the best solution.
A previous owner did some pretty egregious things to them. The front and rear had silicone all over them. I was prepared for that. I removed as much of the silicone as I could. The ones on the side though took my by surprise. They're glued into the top channels, and had silicone between the drip rails and the actual roof. I only replaced the passenger side, as I ran out of time to scrape the glue from the rail. I'll get to the driver's side tomorrow. Anyway, it's the front and rear seals that were leaking, so this ought to take care of it.
@Doat: You probably need to change the clips, but solder isn't the best way. Crimping the connectors is the correct way to do automotive wiring. Solder creates a weak point where the rigid solder ends, and the wire can't flex properly, so it breaks more easily. That said, a good solder job is going to last longer than a poor crimp job, but a good crimp job is the best solution.
I was thinking of soldering a heat shrink but now I recall hearing about how soldering is not the best thing for hot areas because it could de-solder the connection. Crimping sounds like the best idea.Dan_Gyoba;1964570 said:
Wait a minute what about the injectors from a 98 sc300? I have a 2jzge vvti from that car sitting in my garage are those 550CC and plug and play? Even if they aren't if I can use those then I am all set lol.gsxr141;1964586 said:
Upon further research it seems that they are 330CC injectors.
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Dan_Gyoba;1964570 said:
AUGH!! Been there. So not fun. Previous owner of mine had also used this horrible silicone that was impossible to get off. I spent half a day trying to scrape it out from under the folds in those metal rails. So worth it, though. It rains quite a bit here in Portland and I haven't had a single drop of rain on my lap since then!!
Also: when I changed my clips, I soldered. I think that it is the better way to go, personally. Reason being the wires can get pretty corroded from crimp connectors (have had to replace many from po from too high of resistance in through the wires causing problems) if they are not the heat shrink type, of course, or if you do not put heat shrink on them. Cleaning up the wires of any corrosion with flux and then soldering allows a nice clean thick contact between the 2 wires. Anyone can be lousy at soldering and create a heap of gunk that can snap easily, but if done properly, with overlapped and using only a dab solder, it should be very solid. That being said, the factory repair procedure for fixing wires per TSBs for VW of America recommends crimp connectors only. (Not sure about Toyota) Probably the best answer is whatever the person doing the work is better at.
Back onto topic: Today I installed my new adjustable trailing arms, and sway bar end links!!
Then got a proper alignment. (Turns out my tape-measure alignment the first go-round wasn't too far off though!!!!! 
At the shop getting the valve stems on my wheels replaced. They don't have any that fit my bbs rims. They're a weird style valve stem
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Doat;1964588 said:
I believe USDM TT are 550 side feeds. The NA is 300-330. Saying "stock mkiv" is misleading because it doesn't include year or engine description. I'm not sure what they called a "base" mkiv was back then because I have never researched a mkiv.
7MGTEs are top feed right? Does the feed style really matter like does it change the design of the injector or will any style injector fit?Grandavi;1964640 said:
I don't think that you can use them because 7m is top feed (at least not with a stock fuel setup, and you wouldn't use the smaller ones obviously. I did a bit of research on the older style 7m injectors and the RC injectors are suited fine for the 7m with a stock ecu. If your going standalone you should be aware that the 7m "normal" injectors (like the RC 550's) are older technology. Because I went standalone I spent the extra coin and bought 1000 cc Injector Dynamics. They have far better flow control and spray patterns and won't over feed with a proper tune.
All I can say is "know your end goals". I did RC 550's with a Denso mkiv fuel pump on stock rail and ecu. I have trouble with over feeding and can't idle as smoothly as I would like. The ID injectors solve all that, plus I have headroom if I want to try for more power. Normally you wouldn't put 1000 cc injectors on our cars to get to 400-450 rwhp, but these can be used because they are a better technology. Wouldn't use them on a stock ecu though.
The Mk3 ECU is very good engineering for its time, but that was 20+ years ago. I think that the MKIV 550's may be high impedance as well, but not sure if that.
All I can say is "know your end goals". I did RC 550's with a Denso mkiv fuel pump on stock rail and ecu. I have trouble with over feeding and can't idle as smoothly as I would like. The ID injectors solve all that, plus I have headroom if I want to try for more power. Normally you wouldn't put 1000 cc injectors on our cars to get to 400-450 rwhp, but these can be used because they are a better technology. Wouldn't use them on a stock ecu though.
The Mk3 ECU is very good engineering for its time, but that was 20+ years ago. I think that the MKIV 550's may be high impedance as well, but not sure if that.
My end goal is just to get roughly 300hp out of the 7M then dump everything I got into my 2jzge-T setup. Basically I just want to get rid of my fuel cut now and add on a catback exhaust, so I want to get new injectors and a catback system but like I said I already have the muffler so I will probably buy a high flow cat to pass emissions and have my guy weld up the rest. From what I understand to get rid of my fuel cut problems I need a lexus afm and 550CC injectors but some people also get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and from the guy I plan on buying my injectors from he is throwing in a fuel dampener bypass line.