Changed both front wheel bearings and lower ball joints today. Started putting in my ss brake brake lines.
What did you do to your supra today? Pics
- Thread starter boostinsupra
- Start date
shipkiller;1944573 said:Ford ranger carrier bearing
thankyou for posting that, i did mine todaythe exact same way. part from oreilly 29.22 and a 2ft piece of flat from home depot 11.84 for a total of 41.06 to replace my old raggy ass bearing. i didnt have to wallow out any holes in the actual mount itself, but the bracket piece i made was a little off so those got widened, ill get to making a better one later because i have plenty of metal left over. and i think i got something out of time because i have a vibration between 45-60 and starts clearing out again so i know im gonna end up pulling it out again anyways.
vibration might have something to do with a unbalanced driveshaft or worn u-joints. A worn carrier bearing driven for a long time will wear u-joints quite fast and it won't be perfect even with a new bearing. I ordered 3 new ujoints on driftmotion, waiting for them to change and balance the DS. Hopefully it will get rid of every bit of vibration.suprajztwenty;1944666 said:
This carrier VS worn stock one (1" play in every direction) made a massive difference.
Unloaded my "new" '89 off the trailer. Getting it ready for a new engine, suspension and brake work, and eventually wheels and tires.
I changed some interior lights to LEDs and changed my brake and rear turn signals to LEDs but now my turn signals flash quickly like a ricer. I assume I need to also change the front turn signal or that is just how it will be with LEDs. Also my warning light for the taillights on the dash is on but the lights work.
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Buy a "heavy duty" flasher, and replace the one you have. Your LED signal lights will work properly then.
The regular flashers use the load of the lamps as a timing element. They do that deliberately so that a quick flash alerts you to the fact that a lamp is burned out.
the tail lamp failure sensor also assumes that you'll have incandescent lamps, and the LEDs will have a different wattage, therefore the failure sensor will read them as being out. If you are going to change over to LED tail lights then you should bypass the lamp failure sensor.
Personally, I just don't think that they're worth the trouble.
The regular flashers use the load of the lamps as a timing element. They do that deliberately so that a quick flash alerts you to the fact that a lamp is burned out.
the tail lamp failure sensor also assumes that you'll have incandescent lamps, and the LEDs will have a different wattage, therefore the failure sensor will read them as being out. If you are going to change over to LED tail lights then you should bypass the lamp failure sensor.
Personally, I just don't think that they're worth the trouble.
A heavy duty flasher is the relay in the driver's kick panel fuse box correct? I finally got to see how my LED tail lights look at night time and I love it I also tried out the amber LEDs for the turn signal and they look great as well, so I am for trying to get them to work properly.
Also is there any particular HD flasher or just get one that is heavy duty?
Also is there any particular HD flasher or just get one that is heavy duty?
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i blew out my thrust washer in the r154 today...fml
seems like every 2 days something else breaks.
started with afm, then upper rad hose, then my amp wire corroded through to the fuse, carrier bearing finally gave out bad enough to replace, and today i get in like, "i got you now fucker" and it punched me in the sack with "bitch, try driving without first gear, have fun rebuilding THIS shit"
seems like every 2 days something else breaks.
started with afm, then upper rad hose, then my amp wire corroded through to the fuse, carrier bearing finally gave out bad enough to replace, and today i get in like, "i got you now fucker" and it punched me in the sack with "bitch, try driving without first gear, have fun rebuilding THIS shit"
^^^ EPIC.
Thank you for the LMAO moment this morning. I can now work at my desk with tears in my eyes and co-workers wondering how I fell out of my chair.
:bigthumb:
Thank you for the LMAO moment this morning. I can now work at my desk with tears in my eyes and co-workers wondering how I fell out of my chair.
:bigthumb:
pulled the compressor cover to polish it, removed the old wastegate actuator only to discover the c-clip on the wastegate was corroded on... damnit. So I'm hoping penetrating spray will loosen it up so I can put my new driftmotion 12psi actuator on...
Washed, clay barred, compound, and waxed the car and I must say it's a big improvement the pictures don't do it justice.
That pearl goodness
That pearl goodness
Pulled my R154 on suspicion of having hurt it on the dyno. 3-4 shift rail just doesn't move as smoothly as the 1-2 and 5-R. I knew it was close to the breaking point power, but was hoping I'd be safe for just a little longer...
Best we made was 680lb-ft and 806hp. All the pulls were in 4th gear, so I think the clutching teeth may have been bent/deformed.