Ticking noises and oil pressure...

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Well, a some of you may know, i've been worried about the oil pressure in my supe for a while, and theres this strange, category defying ticking noise. Some say its a sign of rod knock, some say it IS rodknock, some say its normal, others say stuck injector, cams seized etc etc.

Well, have a look at these video's and see if you think this is normal:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSObsOBchGI <- thats the ticking noise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AK5dLDGpA3M <- Oil Pressure #1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQM-WGRpZYo <- Oil Pressure #2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbvvYPo4xe4 <- Oil Pressure #3

Cheers and TIA :)
 

jdub

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Sounds like the "clacking" is 1:1 with engine rpm...sorry, but that sounds like rod knock. Does it get louder around 2500 rpm? You can pull the injector clips one at a time and see if the sound dies off on a certain cylinder...if it does, it's rod knock.

What was the point of the oil vids? When the oil warms up, the pressure will drop...looked normal to me for idle rpm.
 

Supra60-1

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May 29, 2005
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I wouldn't worry about that oil pressure at all. My car was worrying me because the oil pressure would get down to less than 5 psi at idle on the dash. So I put a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood and it always was in the right place, the oil pressure would always match or exceed the rpm (15 @1500, 8@800, etc).

That noise sounds like a shim. My car started doing this too, after I had the (motor) head rebuilt. Never went away and was annoying. Get a trustworthy toyota dealer to shim the valves.

Its definitely not rod knock. Rod knock sounds scary:aigo: and is loud, you can hear it inside the car (it has happened to me). I cant tell much from your video, too much fan wind and poor audio. Probing around with a socket extension helps, put it right behind your ear on your skull not in your ear.
 
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jdub

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Yes he should be worried about oil pressure...especially if it's the beginnings of rod knock. What you are looking for is the pressure above the 2000 rpm range. If the pressure at that rpm is/has fallen off from say a month ago and he is using the same brand/grade oil, it's not good. Falling oil pressure, "clack" or "tick" at 2500 rpm, pull an injector clip on a cylinder and it quiets down = beginnings of rod knock.

Guys...rod knock is 1:1 with engine rpm. If it were the valves, it would appear to be at 1/2 engine rpm. Rod knock at the final stages is loud...it starts relatively quiet until the bearing is worn away and the rod is banging around on the crank journal.
 

Dirgle

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I'm with jdub on this one. I recognize that sound all to well, and it is rod knock, without question. You can pick it out fairly clearly when he holds a high rpm. In the lower rpm range it just sounds like our ridiculously noisy injectors. However when he brings up the rpms you can hear the rod knock comming out clearly.
 

tlo86

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heard that sound when i installed cam gears once... but thats easily elimated if you didnt install cam gears :):)
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
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Well, again, there seems to be a split. At 2200 to 2500rpm the noise is there, but not before and not after. Ed said not to worry and it wasnt loud enough for rod knock. It sounds a lot noisier in the video, probably because the sound is 8khz Mono :/

If it is rod knock...well thats me screwed :(
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
It's done it ever since i've owned it. It's coming from directly beneath the coil pack, cylinders 2 and 3.

It's never gone wrong mechanically, the AFM died the other day, but that's about the extent of the problems.

I've booked the car in for another oil change when i get back home later next week, see if i can glean anything from that.

The oil pressure looks normal now - it worried me yesterday cause it looked lower from the passenger seat, but looking at the video's myself, i can see that it's sticking to the same place it always has.

Just an off the wall idea - what about something like the crank pulley being loose - would that cause the clacking noise? Or the power steering pump - cause i know that's worn...
 

Dirgle

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Kai said:
At 2200 to 2500rpm the noise is there, but not before and not after.

That right there is the key. That is a character trait of the beginnings of 7M rod knock. It happened that way to me and if you search around it has happened that way to many people.
 

Dirgle

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And get the crank micro-polished, as well as new front/rear main seals. Providing everything is within tolerances, yes that is all you have to do. However, there are more things you could do as well while it is out. If you have the patience, ambition, and money.

Nice new shimmed oil pump, or at least shim the old one.
replace the water pump
replace the timing belt.
prep and install a MHG on the block.
various other preventively maintenance items.
inspect wear on the clutch
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Well if i do have to replace the bearings, with the US/UK exchange rate as it is - it's really cheap for a set of clevites....even TOGA bearings are cheap.

Plus, been on the phone to Ed - he's got a spare GTE block i can have thats known to be good. Potential panic over...? We'll see :p
 

Wills7MGTE

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I'm not sure on the sound, the oil pressure gauage is a POS so if you are concerned I'd say get a new gauge thats a bit more accurate, mine idles with more pressure dpending on the air temperature, but it never drops below 40 on the stock gauage.
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Pulling the injector clips made no difference - the noise was still there. I'm looking at bearings nonetheless - looking at horsepowerfreaks - a set of 6 Clevites are only $33.06 - which is well cheap.

However, the sizing of them....if its a stock bottom end - will it be likely to be standard, or do i need to take the engine out to look at the bearings before i can order them?

What else is involved in replacing the bearings?
 

jdub

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If it was the rod bearings, there should have been a noticeable change in the sound.

Before you do that, have you checked the valve clearances?