Ticking noises and oil pressure...

[BoostedFloto]

See, i did the same thing - i thought it was valvetrain too, but its worrying me, so its better safe than sorry and time to build a block from scratch.

This is a freshly rebuilt block w/ 250miles(MAX). The head was a "freshly Rebuilt" from E-bay(yes I know). Also new oil pump etc etc nothing was spared so if it is the bottom end it is a Defected Bearing OR the Machine shop fucked something up.

 

[Kai]

Well, the only way to be completely sure is to pull the engine, and look at the bearings...

 

[Supra60-1]

Boosted, yours does sound like the valvetrain since it is so consistent, sounds the same at idle as it does higher up. My car did that when it was running. Rod knock usually has an interval that doesnt start at idle.

 

[jdub]

^^^ I agree.

Did you check the valve shim clearances before you installed the head?

 

[BoostedFloto]

^^^ I agree.

Did you check the valve shim clearances before you installed the head?

not before...but they were checked the other day after the noise testing was done and we decided it was a top end noise.

there are a couple of shims that are about .001 UNDER spec... but i dont think that little difference would matter or make that noise...

we are leaning towards something with the camshafts/caps/ or maybe a valve or spring? or possibly one of the lifters with too much or too little clearance.... pretty much anything in the head is up for suggestion lol. but like i said the clearances of the shims under the cam lobes as per tsrm were only a couple that were .001 under spec. so i dont think thats the cause.

anymore ideas? help?

 

[jdub]

You need to get the valves that are under back into spec...I agree that it's likely not the cause of the noise, but that clearance is too tight.

Check the clearances on the cam shaft caps. Make sure the intake caps (marked I1, I2, etc) and exhaust caps (marked E1, E2, etc) are in the right order and on the correct side. There is a torque pattern in the TRSM for the caps as well.

 

[Mr.PFloyd]

oh, just wondering, for both of you does the sound occur right when you start it up?

 

[Kai]

Nope - you cant hear any knocking in mine until the timing starts to advance at 2200 rpm

 

[BoostedFloto]

oh, just wondering, for both of you does the sound occur right when you start it up?

yes you can hear my ticking right from start up and then after a few minutes of idling and warming up every 30-45sec in the same rhythm as the rest a louder tap comes for a count of 3-4 and then back to the softer ones.

 

[jdub]

A major difference between early rod knock and valve train tick

 

[jetjock]

It's the 15W or 20W taking hours to get up there on a cold start

 

[Kai]

touche

 

[jetjock]

Lol. I'm only half kidding though. OHC engines are sensitive to lubrication and need it in a hurry. It's one reason to use an oil with good cold flow properties even in moderate climes. Another case where "thinner" (in reality not as thick) is better.

Oh oh....I'm stepping on the Dubster's expert toes

 

[Kai]

I see what you mean, although the 15w40 was available and is still working fine - my oil pressure is actually fine, seeing as i was going off that the first 'notch' on the pressure gauge isnt 10psi, but 20psi. Whoops.

Still, the new block is ready to be built upon (see other thread about pistons - would like opinion on the pistons as well!)

 

[johnathan1]

The first notch is 20psi? Lol...i have always thought it was ten...

 

[jdub]

Oh oh....I'm stepping on the Dubster's expert toes

LOL...nah!

Rod knock is one of the only cases (like Kai's) where I'd say to stick with the heavier oil...it will put off the inevitable for maybe just a bit

Now valve train noise...different story...you want the oil up there a quick as you can.

 

[Kai]

Apparrently it is, loads of people think it's 10, but when ed and a few others said 'er, it's 20psi' and then proved it with an aftermarket gauge...

Then again, ours might be different, due to our RHD leetness

 

[Kai]

Jdub - i'm trying not to drive the car as much as is possible, definitely not for any long trips like the last week (i even hit 130+ mph on the way down there - not exactly my brightest idea, given my current knowledge!), and i'm going to build a block from scratch, and build it WELL

 

[jdub]

Kai - since you are going to do a stock re-build, it should be a piece of cake. Let me know and I'll share my limited knowledge on the subject

 

[Kai]

Well, i'm going for a rebore, and hence, new pistons. Seeing as i can get a crank polish and rebore for £90 each, it seems silly not to do it.

The pistons i was looking at, look fine for stock application, obviously they probably arent great or even at all good for someone building lots of power and driving like a loony - but i drive the car a little bit like i have miss daisy squashed behind me. Theres nowhere in london to really drive fast, seeing as there are speed cameras all over the place, too congested and on long motorway trips which are very rarely undertaken, i drive in the middle lane and typically stick to about 80mph, except for when the weather is right and the outside lane is free from wankers

Also, my going stock on headbolts and gasket for top end, despite repeated 'i'm building a STOCK' engine seems to anger people somewhat, surely the standard stuff in STOCK trim cant be THAT bad?