Cant do valve clearances until i'm back home and i have a gasket set, but they were done before it was laid up 2 years ago - since then i've added maybe 500/600 miles to it - could they have just 'gone out' since then??
Ticking noises and oil pressure...
- Thread starter Kai
- Start date
Did you do the clearances yourself? A little history on that may be useful.
Also, what kind of oil are you using...brand and grade?
Also, what kind of oil are you using...brand and grade?
Castrol 15w40 for high mileage engines, and the clearances weren't done by me - like i said i'll check them when i get back to the mainland (on the Isle of Wight at the moment).
Yeah...I would do that. Changing the rod bearings is a big job...if it's the valve clearances, that just might fix it and save you the grief.
I have a spare block that i'm going to pimp out with ed - new set of piston rings & bearings, new MHG, and later on, my head. Should take a good month and a half to get it all done.
Oh - question....can you change the bearings with the engine still in the car like some cars i've worked on, or is it an engine & transmission out job?
you can, but its more of a question on if you SHOULD.Kai said:
i believe that once a car has been knocking, theres no way to escape it from future happenings unless you micro polish it and balance it.
I have heard it is possible if you drop the crossmember, however for the sake of simplicity and sanity pull the engine.
Hmm....sod it, if it needs it, i'll pull the engine put in the spare block and my head, then do the bearings on the buggered block along with the piston rings. Might as well paint is as well while it's out....
Okay - well, i went out with a substantially better camera than my phone, and its got slightly better audio, and better picture on it.
It's still a little overbright, and the sound on it cuts out when it gets noisy (its a cheap HP digital camera), but it gives you more of an idea than before.
http://kai.robinson.free.fr/dropbox/Supra/The Tick.wmv
It's still a little overbright, and the sound on it cuts out when it gets noisy (its a cheap HP digital camera), but it gives you more of an idea than before.
http://kai.robinson.free.fr/dropbox/Supra/The Tick.wmv
Despite the fact its been driving like that for the last month in my hands and not gone wrong once? 
Listened to it a couple of times Kai...as much as I was hoping it was not, it does sound like rod knock. It's 1:1 with engine rpm and has that distinctive "clatter" when you rev'ed the motor.
It's not near as bad as some I've heard, but it will get worse...it's just a matter of time. You could run a 20W-50 oil and keep the noise down for a while until you get the other motor built.
It's not near as bad as some I've heard, but it will get worse...it's just a matter of time. You could run a 20W-50 oil and keep the noise down for a while until you get the other motor built.
Well i get back to the mainland on Sunday - at which point i'm picking up another block...but it's still going to cost me a fair whack to get it up and running....i'm considering breaking the car for parts value
Kai said:Despite the fact its been driving like that for the last month in my hands and not gone wrong once?
The worst part about that statement is the fact that you have never experienced the true power of your car if its been doing that since you got it. The ECU pulls a considerable amount of timing when it detects knock on that level.
Well, i use it as a DD - the most i've ever done in it for the last month has been about 40mph and never exceeded 4000rpm. It's always spooled waaaay fast, and spins the rear tyres even in reasonably dry weather. In the wet i was terrified to drive it. It's definitely got more power than my N/A (of course!).
That was the other thing i was going to ask - if theres a knock, i know the knock sensor is designed to pick up the sound of pinking, but wouldnt rod knock send off a Code 52 as well?
That was the other thing i was going to ask - if theres a knock, i know the knock sensor is designed to pick up the sound of pinking, but wouldnt rod knock send off a Code 52 as well?
jdub said:
Bingo. Code 52 only indicates a problem with the circuit (wiring, sensors, ect.). A detected knock will not cause the ECU to throw a code, it will only adjust the engine parameters (fuel, timing) as much as it can in order to prevent the knock/detonation, but it will not throw a code.
If your car runs like that with pulled timing, imagine how it would run in top shape.
Aaah fair enough...
Counting my magic beans at the moment...looks like i can get a set of pistons and rings for $210 and a bearing set for $95 inc shipping (Clevites), which means just having to have the crank polished and a rebore done for £90 each, headgasket....well i'm going for stock engine anyway, so a standard job will do...
Looks like £515 all in, as the headgasket and labour will be £175....*sigh*
I've run out of things to sell :/
Counting my magic beans at the moment...looks like i can get a set of pistons and rings for $210 and a bearing set for $95 inc shipping (Clevites), which means just having to have the crank polished and a rebore done for £90 each, headgasket....well i'm going for stock engine anyway, so a standard job will do...
Looks like £515 all in, as the headgasket and labour will be £175....*sigh*
I've run out of things to sell :/