AaronB;2058591 said:
Casings where drain plugs screw into are aluminium for both drain & fill plugs...
The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
Casings where drain plugs screw into are aluminium for both drain & fill plugs...
My 1JZ has been leaking coolant from the port on the back of the head since I got it. Managed to change the coolant line without pulling the engine. It's on, but due to the awkwardness of location I couldn't get it on 100% but plenty enough over the ridge to clamp it down. I thought that would fix the problem, but it's still leaking.
It's a really small leak and I'm thinking it's coming from the tube to block insert. Maybe it lost some of its seal. This would explain why the old line was pressed over part of the block as well. Considering putting RTV around that junction in hopes it seals. Can't find this issue anywhere online. Ideas?
It's a really small leak and I'm thinking it's coming from the tube to block insert. Maybe it lost some of its seal. This would explain why the old line was pressed over part of the block as well. Considering putting RTV around that junction in hopes it seals. Can't find this issue anywhere online. Ideas?
Anyone here using mishimoto fan shroud kit? On the fence about buying. But can't find any feedback
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I have a question that was referenced in another thread I can't seem to find. After a drive today I found what looks like paint overspray on the front TEMS covers. I recall someone finding it on their radiator hoses ir something similar a while back. Anyone know what could cause this or know the thread I'm thinking of?
That could be, maybe dried/burned coolant. It looks like white paint but I also have a white car, also under the hood near the area it feels slightly damp, but it's been raining for the past week. I'll check the coolant levels and see if the "paint" has a smell of coolant.
My car has been annoying me for awhile now. When I am idling the CEL will come on throwing a code for the AFM and it will struggle to idle but I changed the AFM sensor twice and it still does it. It only happens at idle when I am driving it is perfectly fine and boosts fine but when I stop the CEL will come on and it struggles to idle I can also smell that the mixture is off. Friend of mine suggested to clean out the IACV.
drogon;2058395 said:So I'm going NA-t finally pulled the old NA block went to put my engine mounts on the new block still an Na but the turbo manifold support bracket seems to be in the way. Is there a diff between turbo and non turbo mounts?! Everywhere I read says no just the years(square or round). Or maybe I place the bracket incorrectly?
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So figured it out, found another bracket hiding on a spare block, turns out there is a difference in years.
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If removing clutch fan and aux fans can I remove the ac coolant sensor without tripping the ecu? I'm wanting to install a bmw switch for my Efan set up
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Doat;2060082 said:
Doat I had a similar issue when I did my rebuild, My car didn't come with a PS pump so the valve that runs from ps pump to the accordion hose in front of the turbo had an opening and sucked air. It was crazy until I plugged it. After putting a plug in, the car idled perfect.
check for a leak or that check valve on the bottom of the pump may be going.
Also I guess while I'm here has anyone ordered a fan clutch from Rock auto? Mine has been intermittently sounding like a Jet taking off all the time. I know its normal and usually clutched around 3000 rpm or whatnot but it's been just full on lately.
I have had RO purchase before and are good, just looking for more info or previous buyers. or maybe even another supplier for one.
cinderMK3;2060710 said:
I bought my Aisin fan clutch from Rock Auto. Actually, I bought one for a Tundra (2003, i believe). It fits just the same but keeps the car a hair cooler than the stock MK3 one.
The code my car is throwing when it acts up during idle is code 31, AFM or boost leak but I think I found the problem. The one small hose that goes from the hard lines from the accordion hoses to the intake side and there is a small hoses that goes down right by the fuel rail in between the intake and connects to a short hard line under the intake manifold. I replaced it with some cheap fish tank hoses since that was all that I had that would fit and it seems to have solved the issue but that hose is collapsing. I messed with it before I drove to the auto parts store to get a proper hose for it and the car ran beautifully the entire way and I took a very long route and was boosting it spinning up in first, etc. hard stops too and it held idle just fine never acted up or dipped down no CEL too. This car is literally a woman that is on the rag lol.
Any of you guys know where to get custom weather tec type floor mats for a supra? I dont want dirty carpet!!! 
thanks everyone
thanks everyoneFound out what my problem was. The boost line that connects to the small hard line next to the coil pack had a bad hose on the intake side the hose that runs down in between the IACV, intake manifold, and fuel rail. Replaced that line and the car ran beautifully and the weather here at the moment tonight is low 60s, so the car was boosting hard and it did not act up at all. So happy.
Is there a company, or person, who makes a exhaust heat guard for the mk3 supra similar to the 4th Gen supra? My exhaust isn't touching the bumper but gets very hot and Is starting to tan a spot in the bumper a brownish black. I'm afraid it will start warping soon
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