Just found this thread. We will have to take our cars to the track next summer. I am expecting considerable more than the 550 rwhp where she is now set. Not going to let funky_monkey58 beat me!
Dan
Dan
Steve's mildly out-of-control build
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OK, so I got some parts in today, and I want to share my happiness with you all! -and a little frustration...-
I got my AEM EMS, and I got a mint harness as a part of that deal. Got a bonus of RC injector clips being soldered onto it already. I also got a good O2 sensor, a knock sensor and a new oil pressure sender extra!
Here's my pile o' parts as of yet:
Still waiting on the BBC valve springs from SIP, and I hope they come in soon... because the whole engine has been ready for a week, now and it's driving me crazy!
The new radiator has been shipped out by mishimoto an I should see it either saturday or early next week. It's all coming together, albeit slower than I had hoped it to.
I got my AEM EMS, and I got a mint harness as a part of that deal. Got a bonus of RC injector clips being soldered onto it already. I also got a good O2 sensor, a knock sensor and a new oil pressure sender extra!
Here's my pile o' parts as of yet:
Still waiting on the BBC valve springs from SIP, and I hope they come in soon... because the whole engine has been ready for a week, now and it's driving me crazy!
The new radiator has been shipped out by mishimoto an I should see it either saturday or early next week. It's all coming together, albeit slower than I had hoped it to.
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My pile of parts> your pile of parts.
Should have ordered the springs from summit takes about 2-3days for delivery.
Should have ordered the springs from summit takes about 2-3days for delivery.
Yep, I'm kicking myself in the head for that. For some reason I thought Summit had them on backorder when I was checking them out. Oh well. It'll get done eventually, I just might not get to drive it this year. 
funky_monkey58;1424566 said:
Don't get too cocky now buddy!
If this is a race between you two it should be a fun one. :icon_bigg
I think my car running right for the first time in a year would be pretty epic in and of itself.
But yes, I think a race would be sweet regardless.
By then, Rob's car should be up to your level, I would hope...
But yes, I think a race would be sweet regardless.
By then, Rob's car should be up to your level, I would hope...
Sean your parts are fail because they are all OEM and no picsfunky_monkey58;1424566 said:
funky_monkey58;1424581 said:
Umm... I say no EPIC, just more fail coming
emiliorescigno;1424647 said:
Steve wins, dont ask why
Back to my pizza now. :sarcasm:
MAP Sensor
There are 3 wires on a MAP sensor. It requires MAP signal, 5V reference, and sensor ground. If you're using an AEM MAP sensor: MAP signal is green or white, 5V reference is red, and sensor ground is black. The signal wire needs to be dedicated, meaning that should be the only wire making contact with that pin. The sensor ground and 5V reference wire can be tapped. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your MAP sensor. If you did everything correctly, with an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, your MAP voltage (setup/sensors/map sensor parameters) should be about 1.6V with the key on engine off, with an AEM 5 bar MAP sensor, your MAP voltage should be about 1.3V with the key on engine off. Remember to select the correct sensor in your MAP sensor wizard.
MAP signal - Pin 17A
Sensor ground - Pin: 9B and 4C (tap to one of these)
5V Reference - Pin: 1B (tap to this pin)
Air Intake Temp. Sensor
There are 2 wires on a AIT sensor. Polarity does not matter. It requires AIT signal and sensor ground. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your AIT sensor. Remember to select the correct sensor in you AIT sensor wizard.
AIT signal - Pin 3B
Sensor ground - Pin: 9B and 4C (tap to one of these)
Boost Solenoid
There are 2 wires on a boost solenoid. Polarity does not matter. It requires switched 12V and PW2 on EMS. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your boost solenoid.
PW2 - Pin 1C
Wideband (this is for EMS without built in wideband)
If you're using 30-4100 (Gauge type wideband controller), 30-2300/2301 (Dual/Single channel wideband controller), or other wideband controller with a 0-5V output, you will need to tap the 0-5V output wire to the O2#1 or O2#2pin on your EMS. White wire on 30-4100, and orange wire on the 30-2300/2301. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your wideband.
O2#1 - Pin 6B
O2#2 - Pin 14B
There are 3 wires on a MAP sensor. It requires MAP signal, 5V reference, and sensor ground. If you're using an AEM MAP sensor: MAP signal is green or white, 5V reference is red, and sensor ground is black. The signal wire needs to be dedicated, meaning that should be the only wire making contact with that pin. The sensor ground and 5V reference wire can be tapped. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your MAP sensor. If you did everything correctly, with an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, your MAP voltage (setup/sensors/map sensor parameters) should be about 1.6V with the key on engine off, with an AEM 5 bar MAP sensor, your MAP voltage should be about 1.3V with the key on engine off. Remember to select the correct sensor in your MAP sensor wizard.
MAP signal - Pin 17A
Sensor ground - Pin: 9B and 4C (tap to one of these)
5V Reference - Pin: 1B (tap to this pin)
Air Intake Temp. Sensor
There are 2 wires on a AIT sensor. Polarity does not matter. It requires AIT signal and sensor ground. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your AIT sensor. Remember to select the correct sensor in you AIT sensor wizard.
AIT signal - Pin 3B
Sensor ground - Pin: 9B and 4C (tap to one of these)
Boost Solenoid
There are 2 wires on a boost solenoid. Polarity does not matter. It requires switched 12V and PW2 on EMS. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your boost solenoid.
PW2 - Pin 1C
Wideband (this is for EMS without built in wideband)
If you're using 30-4100 (Gauge type wideband controller), 30-2300/2301 (Dual/Single channel wideband controller), or other wideband controller with a 0-5V output, you will need to tap the 0-5V output wire to the O2#1 or O2#2pin on your EMS. White wire on 30-4100, and orange wire on the 30-2300/2301. Please follow the pin out below to wire in your wideband.
O2#1 - Pin 6B
O2#2 - Pin 14B
92nsx;1424756 said:Steve wins, dont ask why
*Visions of a Blue Volvo lined up against Steve's Supra at the track*
...Funny, I get the same feeling...
That is assuming I don't sell the volvo and buy a little toyota pickup truck.emiliorescigno;1424902 said:
:naughty:
Anyway back on topic.
To setup the sequential injection follow this.
Injector 4 pin 10C
Injector 5 pin 11C
Injector 6 pin 12C
Then to set it up in AEM pro.
Click "options" then "injectors"
Injectors 1,2,3,7,8,9,10 should be set to "active" and "O2 feedback 1" and "primary"
4,5,6 should not have anything selected.
Then go to "fuel" and then "advanced fuel" then "injector phasing" and finally "options"
Set the injector phase to 0
Inject Tooth #01=19.00
Inject Tooth #02=11.00
Inject Tooth #03=3.00
Inject Tooth #04=0
Inject Tooth #05=0
Inject Tooth #06=0
Inject Tooth #07=15.00
Inject Tooth #08=23.00
Inject Tooth #09=7.00
Inject Tooth #10=0
After that you should be good to go on sequential fuel.
If you want to get rid of the multiplex I can get you that info if need be also.
-Sean
Beautiful, Sean.
Next question- Will the AEM do a good enough job scaling the stock map to run 550's or 720's for initial break-in, or am I better off staying factory ems and then swap it over during the winter build-up?
I'll be likely running an aem 3.5 bar map, gm ait, and that's as far as I've gotten yet. Thanks for all your help!
Next question- Will the AEM do a good enough job scaling the stock map to run 550's or 720's for initial break-in, or am I better off staying factory ems and then swap it over during the winter build-up?
I'll be likely running an aem 3.5 bar map, gm ait, and that's as far as I've gotten yet. Thanks for all your help!
Scaling a map is a pretty simple operation.
Just highlight the entire fuel map. Right click on it. On the bottom you have the option "change injectors or pressure" Just plug in the old injector size and pressure and new injector size and pressure.
Its not a perfect tune of course but it will at least get you in the ball park range.
Tuning AFRs is actually pretty simple, the main problem with street tuning is some of the sustained high speeds involved. Or you can always datalog and make changes according to the logs.
Just highlight the entire fuel map. Right click on it. On the bottom you have the option "change injectors or pressure" Just plug in the old injector size and pressure and new injector size and pressure.
Its not a perfect tune of course but it will at least get you in the ball park range.
Tuning AFRs is actually pretty simple, the main problem with street tuning is some of the sustained high speeds involved. Or you can always datalog and make changes according to the logs.
Hey, hey, hey! I got my radiator today, and it actually fits!!! In celebration, I took some pictures and started mocking up my intercooler for brackets!
Comparison of the new and old I/C
Comparison of the new and old I/C
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Progress FTW!
I also don't work tomorrow so I expect to have the intercooler mounted securely and piping begun. Kinda hard with no engine, but I can at least get the basics covered...
I also don't work tomorrow so I expect to have the intercooler mounted securely and piping begun. Kinda hard with no engine, but I can at least get the basics covered...
I DO have the harness staring at me, as I stare at the wiring diagrams...
Only problem I see is that connector C is on the vehicle harness, not in on the engine harness. I'm guessing you just mean running the new wires through the harness and leave a terminal haning at the end?
Only problem I see is that connector C is on the vehicle harness, not in on the engine harness. I'm guessing you just mean running the new wires through the harness and leave a terminal haning at the end?
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