SBC/LS1 with R154, anyone done it?
- Thread starter Chaingun
- Start date
limequat;1759947 said:
I still have the CNC file for the Brace, the bash plate is the simple piece to make but would add the most in shipping/material cost.
What would you be willing to let the cnc files go for? I can have them done at the Votec in my area
Chaingun;1760037 said:
I wouldn't sorry.
Not that hard a part to design if you have access to a CNC.
I certainly understand, i'll probably have to draw it up in CAD and have one made. Once the motor is in my next hurdle will of course be the exhaust. IJ as always you are the resident expert, Would you think that an SBC or LS1 sitting in about the same position yours did could run a set of block huggers such as
or
? If so it will make routing the exhaust a lot easier and converting from the SBC to LS1 exhaust when the time comes as easy as swapping the headers and welding in the bungs for the o2 sensors.
Hard to say with you being LHD but I "think" a set of huggers might work okChaingun;1760263 said:
Combination subframe brace and bash guard Brad, the LS F Body pan hangs down about 3/4" and being Cast aluminium don't dent they crack so I wasn't taking any chances.te72;1760340 said:I think I may be looking at this the wrong way, but is that your version of the under-tray, or is that more of a skid-plate to protect the oil pan? Either way, looks nice.
crap i forgot yours was a rhd car my concern is the steering components like what Syst ran into with his i don't want anything to rub or hit the exhaust in any way and i'll fab them out through fender wells if i have to lol i don't think that will be needed tho
alrighty, looks like Lime has provided me with the last piece of the puzzle in the form of a clutch that won't completely break my ass on this build: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADD-716105/ This is a 10.5 inch, 21 spline 1 1/8 shaft diameter disc that will fit the R154, I believe i'll be pairing this with a push type fork and muncie 4 speed bell housingand the Novak adapter plate (assuming i don't have to do a hack job on the transmission as seen on page one...) This will theorectically provide a bolt on r154/ls1 combo in the supra i'll only have to make the motor mounts and add the subframe support as seen on IJ's build. There is also another disc that will fit this combo but it's a 500 centerforce disc and i don't think i'll need one of those right now...
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Try the TRD disc for an FJ Cruiser, it's bigger than the one from Advance Adapters. I have the one from Advance Adapters and it is 10.25 inches in diameter, but listed as 10.5 inches. I set this up on the LS6 clutch pressure plate I have and there is about 3/8" that will be unswept on the disc itself. The TRD disc is meant for the supercharged FJ and is rated @ 340 HP 10-7/8" diameter, it will still have the same amount of disc unswept but with the larger diameter it will make up the 3/8" for max contact. The TRD disc (part #TOYOTA-6011895-FJ-TRDSP-4) cost me $120 shipped.
www.dealerdirectparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TOYOTA-6011895-FJ-TRDSP-4
My set -up consists of:
Genuine LS6 clutch kit new off ebay $250, about $500 new from many suppliers.
Novak adapter $300
Keisler LS bell housing $250
Solstice slave $75
ARP pressure plate & flywheel bolts $50
Jags that run (4PAC-TOY)vss sensor gives ECU the speed signal and still lets me use the stock cable to the speedo $100 http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html
still researching the pilot bearing & hydraulic line
www.dealerdirectparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TOYOTA-6011895-FJ-TRDSP-4
My set -up consists of:
Genuine LS6 clutch kit new off ebay $250, about $500 new from many suppliers.
Novak adapter $300
Keisler LS bell housing $250
Solstice slave $75
ARP pressure plate & flywheel bolts $50
Jags that run (4PAC-TOY)vss sensor gives ECU the speed signal and still lets me use the stock cable to the speedo $100 http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html
still researching the pilot bearing & hydraulic line
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hhsuperwhite90;1764412 said:
Good info superwhite, thanks for sharing. Do you have any pics on your project? It sounds like the TRD disc for the FJ is the same disc that is in the stock V6 trucks. I checked MY2009, but others are probably similar. I wasn't able to find a place to buy just the disc for one of these trucks, though. Maybe if we have a Toyota parts guy watching, we can get a # and price.
I've done the clutch line 2 ways:
1) cut off the stock quick disconnect, replace with a custom brake line adapter. Plumb with brake line.
2) Keep the stock quick disconnect, pair with a matching master and line. Custom fit donor master into vehicle.
Both are a pain in the ass, number 2 looks a lot better though and gets you away from aftermarket masters - which tend to fail in my experience.
I wasn't really thinking about the master to be honest but now that we're on that I'm wondering if the master for the R154 will have enough pressure to move the slave cylinder on the new setup, i'm certain that the GM style pressure plates need more force to fully disengage. I believe i've read about a 4 runner master being bolted into a supra any ideas?
Also i'm to assume that the VSS adapter connects into the break off point in the speedo cable correct? I'd forgotten that the VSS signal did so much for proper operation to be honest. Though it doesn't say if it will work with the LS series properly it only mentions the gen2 LT's. I'm sure that it will work ok though.
I'd planned on doing my own clutch line as well i can get one to fit one end on the master and then cut the other end of and reflare it with the proper fittting after it's bent into place though i'll probably want to put a flexible section in somewhere along that line to give it some ability to move as well.
the pilot bearing should be available on the novak website, i'm just gonna get the one for the ax15 swap and have it bored to match the r154 if needed
Also i'm to assume that the VSS adapter connects into the break off point in the speedo cable correct? I'd forgotten that the VSS signal did so much for proper operation to be honest. Though it doesn't say if it will work with the LS series properly it only mentions the gen2 LT's. I'm sure that it will work ok though.
I'd planned on doing my own clutch line as well i can get one to fit one end on the master and then cut the other end of and reflare it with the proper fittting after it's bent into place though i'll probably want to put a flexible section in somewhere along that line to give it some ability to move as well.
the pilot bearing should be available on the novak website, i'm just gonna get the one for the ax15 swap and have it bored to match the r154 if needed
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No pics yet. I'm just amassing parts before I get started. I'll start a build thread soon. Supposed to receive the TRD disc Fri. and will post pics, part#'s and measurements.
The AA disc is made by Centerforce with a part#101211821AD, not sure if it translates to anything. I went ahead and ordered the solstice clutch line last night so we'll see how I can adapt it. I've been eyeing the Willwood universals $75 but if there's something better i'll go with that.
The JTR sensor threads directly into the trans and the cable threads into it, I have the sensor and checked it already. The sensor will work as it emits a 4 pulse AC sinewave that can be converted by the GM PCM through programming. I really want a pilot bearing instead of a bushing but sometimes beggars can't be choosers.
The AA disc is made by Centerforce with a part#101211821AD, not sure if it translates to anything. I went ahead and ordered the solstice clutch line last night so we'll see how I can adapt it. I've been eyeing the Willwood universals $75 but if there's something better i'll go with that.
The JTR sensor threads directly into the trans and the cable threads into it, I have the sensor and checked it already. The sensor will work as it emits a 4 pulse AC sinewave that can be converted by the GM PCM through programming. I really want a pilot bearing instead of a bushing but sometimes beggars can't be choosers.
hmmm very good point, maybe adapt a GM unit i'd rather keep the pedal i have but it may be best to put a pedal and cylinder in and modify the firewall this would remove any issues with different ends on the clutch line as well. White what program will you be using to modify the ecu? I'm not sold on any real difference between the bushing vs bearing deal. As i see it a bushing is a solid piece and that's one less point that could fail unless it somehow manages to get ground by the input shaft....
For the slave cylinder, wouldn’t you just space it out accordingly to make sure the pressure plate disengages fully?
Not sure to be honest, tho as lime stated, you'd have to move enough fluid from the master to the slave to make it fully disengauge. since fluid doesn't compress it's all about the volume(thanks again for correcting me on that i've done a bit of research and learned some more about the subject) Spacing would be if the slave was hyper extending and needed to be brought in a bit.Perhaps this will work though the stroke is 1.4 inches
it's designed to mount with a remote reservoir as well. It would need an adapter plate as the bolt holes are vertical, but with it being a sealed design with a remote tank, i wonder if it could be mounted sideways...
anyways more info here
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx
) Spacing would be if the slave was hyper extending and needed to be brought in a bit.Perhaps this will work though the stroke is 1.4 inches
anyways more info here
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx
The GM PCM can be set up as a stand alone and infinitely tuned for almost anything you want(turbo, nitrous etc.) including multiplying the VSS signal from the trans to a usable signal. The PCM will use this signal for maximizing fuel economy and driveability in a non electronic trans and is vital to the use of an electronically controlled auto trans.