Removing Rear Suspension Lower arms bushing install

[roadboy]

hey, im currently installing my Energy bushings and i just want to know if the rear No1 and No2 suspension arm bolts are easy to take off.
i have heard of the camber bolts seizing (front lca and rear camber)
im currently using a c-clamp to take out my bushings, iv already took out the front upper control arm bushings.

if its going to seize id rather take it to the shop if anything happens

i just need to know if the rear is going to seize/twist or break when i try to crack it loose.


Thanks

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Just take it to a shop and they will press it out for you. You would hate to mess something up and then have to find a new arm.

I do it all the time, 100 bucks and I press out and in each bushing. We have the tool and press, so it is super easy.

 

[hvyman]

The rears dont really seize. They "could" but its mostly just the fronts

 

[roadboy]

well as long as it dosent seize in the rear for the arms in fine, i can rent a bushing puller or my c-clamps. other than the camber bolts those i will go to a shop with a lift since they are common to seize

 

[adampecush]

Seizing is a function of how much salt the undercarriage has seen. If your car was winter driven and over 200k kms, there is a good chance you'll be cutting out a few of the bolts.

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Ive been doing this for the past three weeks. I had to cut out all four camber bolts in the front end and two camber bolts in the rear.

This has been the worst job i have done on any vehicle ever.

I still have not gotten one arm out. The trailing arm on the driverside. The one that runs front to back and connects to the bottom of the rear knuckle. The subframe bolt is completely frozen and i cant figure out if its frozen in the bushing or the subframe.

I heated the head of the bolt red hot, been spraying it with PB Blast for a week and it will not budge (im using air tools). Ive given up on it. When i get it on the lift to do the alignment i will play with it more.

I would never do this to another supra again.

 

[roadboy]

ok, im leaving the front lower control arm and rear no1 and 2 bushings in place, im doing those on the hoist.

but im in the middle of removing the spindle to trailing arm bushings, i just want to make sure it has a metal lip like the ones on the front lower control arm, can anyone confirm this?

 

[TurboStreetCar]

Only bushings with the lip are the front LCA's

Beware that the spherical bushing that can rotate in the knuckle that goes to the boxed link is not replaced with a poly bushing, but instead of 40 dollar each dealer stock bushing.

 

[OneJArpus]

I've taken my front arms off before with no air tools, and my rear arms (upper only)... i wonder how much of a PITA it may be by hand to do the lowers or loosen the camber bolts

 

[spencyg]

I just removed the entire suspension from a very rusty car I just scrapped, and surprisingly ALL of the upper control arms came right off without any issue. The lower camber adjusting bolts on all corners needed to be cut out however...not a single one could be loosened or driven out with a sledge or heat. I haven't started removing the suspension on my new car (which is far less rusty) but I wouldn't be surprised if I run into the exact same scenario. I've already started acquiring new Toyota factory adjusting bolt sets for all corners.

Good luck...its a PITA.

 

[OneJArpus]

yea i'm going to see if i can "loosen" them first if not i'll just order more camber bolts, i got two new ones already

 

[adampecush]

Ive been doing this for the past three weeks. I had to cut out all four camber bolts in the front end and two camber bolts in the rear.

Since rust is more voluminous than steel, you can heat and pb-blast all you want and they still won't come apart since the bolts are now essentially pressed into the bushing sleeves.

 

[roadboy]

well i know theres one spherical bushing thats located on the number 2 suspension arm i ddint touch that

for others who replaced the bushing in the hub that goes to the trailing arms(traction arms) was there a metal lip in that?

 

[TurboStreetCar]

I just removed the entire suspension from a very rusty car I just scrapped, and surprisingly ALL of the upper control arms came right off without any issue. The lower camber adjusting bolts on all corners needed to be cut out however...not a single one could be loosened or driven out with a sledge or heat. I haven't started removing the suspension on my new car (which is far less rusty) but I wouldn't be surprised if I run into the exact same scenario. I've already started acquiring new Toyota factory adjusting bolt sets for all corners.

Good luck...its a PITA.

The uppers aren't the problem. The lower arms are the ones that are the huge PITA.

Since rust is more voluminous than steel, you can heat and pb-blast all you want and they still won't come apart since the bolts are now essentially pressed into the bushing sleeves.

Yea I'm hoping the bolt holding the one arm I gotta get off isn't completely rusted.

well i know theres one spherical bushing thats located on the number 2 suspension arm i ddint touch that

for others who replaced the bushing in the hub that goes to the trailing arms(traction arms) was there a metal lip in that?

Only bushings with the lip are the front LCA's

 

[91supran/a]

i am actually in the middle of doing this on my friend 90 which he has owned since it was new and drives everyday except when snowing or building motor or the bushings as of now. but that car has 250 k on the frame and the camber bolts pushed through with my hand last night.

 

[#04]

^photo courtesy of nashman


the bushing in the 3'o'clock position did not seem to be included in the Energy Master kit, however my old ones were pooched, does anyone know if Energy offers this (or some other Poly company), as I would like to change ALL my bushings rather than all but 2..

 

[roadboy]

those, i heard are from toyota only

 

[adampecush]

Yep, toyota only. And if I recall correctly, that is a bearing, not a bushing.

 

[supraguy@aol]

And do I understand correctly, that if that spherical bearing goes bad, it makes a clunking sound just like a bad diff?
I'm asking, because I think I have to replace both of mine.

 

[roadboy]

clunking noise like the diff? since when do they clunk? im guessing you would feel the movement in that bushing/bearing if it was bad