S
SupraSith said:
No more carrier bearing to replace and less rotating weight (more important than sprung weight -- ie just taking the spare tire out)
C
cnewingham
Guest
and the worst part about them. It puts a strain on your u-joints and the rest of your drivetrain. Do a search over at SF and you can find lots of info. That is what I did and also what made me change my mind about buying one.
Oh god no. Please do a search and spare me and Syst's time hahahahahah
The U joints are heavy duty U joints.....not the chinsy cheap peices on teh stock DS...I love my 1 pc. AL DS......Its soo much smoother than stock..and you can really feel the rear wheels hook the instant you let the clutch go!
Its that much of a difference. You wont be dissapointed.
-Jonathan
The U joints are heavy duty U joints.....not the chinsy cheap peices on teh stock DS...I love my 1 pc. AL DS......Its soo much smoother than stock..and you can really feel the rear wheels hook the instant you let the clutch go!
Its that much of a difference. You wont be dissapointed.
-Jonathan
Isn't it something like every pound of rotating mass equals 100 pounds of stationary mass? So if you replace your 23lbs stocker with the 11lbs SS unit its like shedding over a hundred pounds of "weight". Thats what I remember someone said I dont know if it was on here on somewhere else. Don't hold me to that, just what I heard.
My car is noticeably quicker with my one-piece aluminum driveshaft. I couldn't say about horsepower gains, though, because my car falls on its face in the power department right now.
My 1-piece was worlds lighter than the stocker. I could effortlessly lift the 1-piece with my off hand, whereas the stock DS takes some heft to move around.
It might put some extra stress on the drivetrain, especially over a stocker with a worn center carrier. When I replaced mine, the clanking of the bad CC went away for a few days, but after 6 passes on a drag strip it was replaced by a new clanking from somewhere in my drivetrain. It hasn't gotten any worse since I stopped racing, though, and my drivetrain has 175,000 miles on it, so I'm not complaining.
I say go for it! If something else breaks because of it, it's probably something that would have broken anyway.
My 1-piece was worlds lighter than the stocker. I could effortlessly lift the 1-piece with my off hand, whereas the stock DS takes some heft to move around.
It might put some extra stress on the drivetrain, especially over a stocker with a worn center carrier. When I replaced mine, the clanking of the bad CC went away for a few days, but after 6 passes on a drag strip it was replaced by a new clanking from somewhere in my drivetrain. It hasn't gotten any worse since I stopped racing, though, and my drivetrain has 175,000 miles on it, so I'm not complaining.
I say go for it! If something else breaks because of it, it's probably something that would have broken anyway.
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Eriol is right on the money.
If your rear end, or transmission is clanking now, and it was mostly your two piece DS before, well they are parts that were going to fail anway.
Also the stress on U-Joints is mostly when they are at extreme angles.
Since our only movement comes from the engine twisting against the motor and transmisison mounts, those angles are pretty much optimum all the time, and the U-Joint does not see much stress compared to a live axle vehicle.
The CF unit I have made a huge difference, but since it was combined with the Fidanza flywheel and RPS clutch, I can't say what made the bigger change. (It was a nice change too. Easy shifts, quicker engine response, faster turbo spool up and basicly everything works better with less rotating mass.)
On this same note, the change from MK4TT wheels with 255/40 17's and 275/40 17's on them to 18" SSR Competitions with 255/30 18's and 285/35 18's that were about 10 lbs lighter each made a HUGE difference in the way the car drives, and makes power. Can't say how much buying light weight wheels is worth every dollar they cost v/s heavy cast wheels. The SSR's are about 16lbs each. The TT wheels were 32lbs or more. I don't know if the Goodyears are lighter than the Kumho's, but the whole package is 10lbs or more lighter at each wheel than I had.
Most people running larger wheels will not admit they slow down the car, but in this case, these larger wheels made my car faster, and handle better. Unsprung weight is nice to loose, and rotating weight is the same way.
Spend you money on reducing both, and your going to enjoy the results. (Much better than pulling out your interior or putting in lexan where glass should be.)
If your rear end, or transmission is clanking now, and it was mostly your two piece DS before, well they are parts that were going to fail anway.
Also the stress on U-Joints is mostly when they are at extreme angles.
Since our only movement comes from the engine twisting against the motor and transmisison mounts, those angles are pretty much optimum all the time, and the U-Joint does not see much stress compared to a live axle vehicle.
The CF unit I have made a huge difference, but since it was combined with the Fidanza flywheel and RPS clutch, I can't say what made the bigger change. (It was a nice change too. Easy shifts, quicker engine response, faster turbo spool up and basicly everything works better with less rotating mass.)
On this same note, the change from MK4TT wheels with 255/40 17's and 275/40 17's on them to 18" SSR Competitions with 255/30 18's and 285/35 18's that were about 10 lbs lighter each made a HUGE difference in the way the car drives, and makes power. Can't say how much buying light weight wheels is worth every dollar they cost v/s heavy cast wheels. The SSR's are about 16lbs each. The TT wheels were 32lbs or more. I don't know if the Goodyears are lighter than the Kumho's, but the whole package is 10lbs or more lighter at each wheel than I had.
Most people running larger wheels will not admit they slow down the car, but in this case, these larger wheels made my car faster, and handle better. Unsprung weight is nice to loose, and rotating weight is the same way.
Spend you money on reducing both, and your going to enjoy the results. (Much better than pulling out your interior or putting in lexan where glass should be.)
Adjuster is right on the money too!
I pretty much have the identacle mods...fidanza FW, RPS stg. 3 clutch, 1pc AL ds...
But I seriously want to try the W58 gearing...
Other than that, I boost full at 3500rpms...10lbs....wonderful torque delivery at 3500 too!
I know I would probably run alot more than 250rwhp on a dyno...I would say nearly 270-280ish with around 300tq....the rebuild is STOUT! :drink1:
I pretty much have the identacle mods...fidanza FW, RPS stg. 3 clutch, 1pc AL ds...
But I seriously want to try the W58 gearing...
Other than that, I boost full at 3500rpms...10lbs....wonderful torque delivery at 3500 too!
I know I would probably run alot more than 250rwhp on a dyno...I would say nearly 270-280ish with around 300tq....the rebuild is STOUT! :drink1:
Z
ztosupra
Guest
well while we're on the topic of weight reduction, what are the best places on the supra to lose weight? it sounds like losing it from the drivetrain is a good starting point to free up the power that is already there, which is what i've always thought was the best start to making power. light wheels, ds, axles, flywheel, clutch, etc. i've heard that reducing unsprung weight helps acceleration, braking, and cornering responsiveness, but how much of an effect will it have? if i remember correctly losing one pound of rotational mass frees up 11 hp or something of the sort. i guess what i really want to know is, how much can the mk3 benefit from losing weight through the drivetrain and suspension?
The first thing I did to lose weight was to replace the front seats.Just the driver seat itself weighed more than a fat baby with a full diaper. The next was to replace the full size spare with a donut type.Those are pretty much the only ones I can think of that are not drivetrain/suspension related.
Just a comment about lighter wheels. A cheap way to go is '94+ RX-7 rims.. they are 13lbs and I think you can get them for under $200. Same lug pattern but you will need a spacer. They also have to be from a '94+. The '93 rims are not as reinforced as the '94+ and I dont think they can handle the chubby MKIII.
I'm eventually going to do this and paint them white.
I'm eventually going to do this and paint them white.
i have an rx7 jack. its way lighter than the stocker. i dont really have much use for it anymore. im putting my TT rims on this summer, and dont plan on carrying a spare unless i go on a trip.
but yes, the rx jack is lighter. it looks cooler too
-shaeff
but yes, the rx jack is lighter. it looks cooler too
-shaeff
See, I have just the kind of luck that the day I take out my spare, I'm going to blow a tire. ;P
S
SupraSith
Guest
Originally Posted by siman
Adjuster is right on the money too!
I pretty much have the identacle mods...fidanza FW, RPS stg. 3 clutch, 1pc AL ds...
But I seriously want to try the W58 gearing...
Other than that, I boost full at 3500rpms...10lbs....wonderful torque delivery at 3500 too!
I know I would probably run alot more than 250rwhp on a dyno...I would say nearly 270-280ish with around 300tq....the rebuild is STOUT!
couple things........3500 is crappy for full boost. I hit full boost between 2700-3000 - with my old NA cat back, so my flow is crap right now.
Siman, you'll hit 300 on the dyno if you have a fresh turbo, a full 3" exhaust and an SAFC. Besides those mods, my friend hit that with a completely stock engine.
Also, w58 gearing is almost identical to the r154, the real difference is in the differential.
W58 gears:
1- 3.29 2-1.89 3-1.28 4-1.00 5-0.78
R154:
1- 3.30 2-1.95 3-1.34 4-1.00 5-0.75
Adjuster is right on the money too!
I pretty much have the identacle mods...fidanza FW, RPS stg. 3 clutch, 1pc AL ds...
But I seriously want to try the W58 gearing...
Other than that, I boost full at 3500rpms...10lbs....wonderful torque delivery at 3500 too!
I know I would probably run alot more than 250rwhp on a dyno...I would say nearly 270-280ish with around 300tq....the rebuild is STOUT!
SupraSith said:
couple things........3500 is crappy for full boost. I hit full boost between 2700-3000 - with my old NA cat back, so my flow is crap right now.
Siman, you'll hit 300 on the dyno if you have a fresh turbo, a full 3" exhaust and an SAFC. Besides those mods, my friend hit that with a completely stock engine.
Also, w58 gearing is almost identical to the r154, the real difference is in the differential.
W58 gears:
1- 3.29 2-1.89 3-1.28 4-1.00 5-0.78
R154:
1- 3.30 2-1.95 3-1.34 4-1.00 5-0.75