Onceover.

[IndigoMKII]

wide open throttle on a gravel road..

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

Oh fun stuff, I do this in my supra. It pisses off my neighbor something fierce but he always calls the cops on me anytime I start my four wheeler. Whats fun with the GTE is short shifting in the rain and feeling the car go sideways at low RPMs in 3rd. I was looking at the car next to me before I could react.

 

[Backlash2032]

I love how easy the rear end slides in rain.. it always makes me laugh lol

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Grandavi]

It is native if he's got the round engine mounts. It'll bolt right in, and the engine harness simply needs to be extended to fit into the stock location. Some people just use a hole saw on the driver side and mount it there.

R154 drive-shaft is needed if he's a W58. There's a little modification required to make the FMIC fit properly for the 1j but it's not too bad.

What I mean by not native is MA70 doesn't come with jz engines. I think you have to replace the ECU as well (although I am not an expert on jz swaps, nor have I done one yet, so I am just going on what I "think" from second hand info and a very poor memory).

I do know that the JZ swaps I have seen have involved a lot more than a simple drop in (intake side is driver side as opposed to passenger, no idea how indepth the wiring changes are but the engine bays don't look the same when I have seen them completed.. etc.. etc... ). Its not simply... drop in and voila! it works. Plus... extending the harness is way oversimplified imo. You also have to go through it very closely to inspect all the wires (swap or not.. I think this is important). Its a 25'ish year old car so things are usually old/frayed/cracked/worn. I try very hard not to use the "simple" word when speaking about MK3's.. simply because no matter what you do, you always have to take into account the age.

Normally in other areas I try not to scare the OP... however.. with MK3's.. I TRY to scare the OPs. Too many people I have talked to that have cracked into the hood to find out that they opened up the Dragon's den...

My advice is to:
1. Figure out a budget
2. Research what you are about to do
3. source the parts (don't order yet or pay for anything)
4. re-figure out your budget.
5. Research more...
6. Implement your plan after you have collected all parts (shipped and paid for)

Read as much as possible before turning a wrench if its an actual build.


If its a simple 7MGE replacement and you have good mechanical skills, that is the cheapest/easiest overall way, however... prepare yourself for a little bit of work if the engine bay hasn't been maintained well.

Plus.. I never tell anyone to do a power upgrade without looking carefully at the suspension/wheels/brakes.

I typed far too much for this area.. lol.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Whoa maybe it's a blessing in disguise that the 1JZ swap isn't happening - I'd hate for him to meet Mr Telephone Pole

So the 7M GTE does make a significant difference? It's too bad this happened out of the blue. I always expected him to upgrade it eventually, it would be a great experience for us both - but now it's a rush.

Of course I'm having trouble finding a reasonably priced 7MGE. I found one for less than $1k delivered but that still seems high. I realize that they might be a touch rarer than a SBC though I possibly have a line on a 7MGTE, if I can get it with its' needed other bits it's a possibility.

Pete

 

[Grandavi]

My 7mgte shortblock cost 2800.00 delivered. That didn't include the head and us Canadians pay more then Americans (cause we have 1/10th the population?)

If it's a good 7mge (used, not built), I would expect it to cost at least 600.00. Regardless what you get, try your hardest to make sure its a sound engine PRIOR to putting it into the car. Expect to helicoils the exhaust manifold studs... 7ms normally have an issue with that.

 

[Backlash2032]

Here's my experience with the 7mge-gte swap.. with the 7mge I could dump the clutch at 3500 rpm and it would spin both back tires to probably 20-30 mph. Then chirp second gear. 0-60 in 8ish seconds, top speed of 135 mph (most I've ever pushed it to lol).. at this point I swapped the gte in, and wasn't expecting TOO much more power because lets face it.. it's only a 40 horsepower increase.. right??

Lol, wrong. Now if I even roll into the throttle it will light up first gear no problems, slam it into second and it breaks the tires loose again. Shift into third and it chirps the tires. 0-60 in just over 6 seconds now. I've done 142 mph, but I know it has plenty more to be had. It's honestly crazy how much of a difference the extra power, and especially torque makes.

Now that I have better tires though, there's no more spinning second gear lol

An option that's a little cheaper is to rebuild the 7mge with 7mgte and fab up oil lines and have essentially a 7mgte. All you would need would be ecu harness igniter, coil packs, intake manifold, intercooler, downpipe, turbo, oil lines..

I personally shopped around for a turbo parts car that had a blown engine for all these little bits.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Thanks Grand.

Alright, we're just going to replace it straight up. Want else should we do while we've got the engine out? List so far:

Timing belt kit/ front seals/ water pump (have the parts already)
Rear engine seal
Clutch kit (exedy ok for a stock 7MGE?)
Front and rear tranny seals
Slave cylinder?
Oil pan gasket?
Swap over all the tuneup parts on the old engine, plugs wires hoses belts valve cover gaskets etc
Retorque head
Starter & wires

Am I missing anything?

Pete

 

[Backlash2032]

Do NOT use an oil pan gasket. Get Toyota FIPG and seal up the pan with that. The TSRM doesn't even call for a gasket.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Thanks.

I'll keep the turbo swap in mind. I'll research a list and if he's interested he can start getting the parts as he can once we get it running.

Pete

 

[Backlash2032]

When you have the engine out put in a drain bung for the turbo.. you will have to either pull the engine or drop the subframe to put it in after the fact.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Grandavi]

Stock clutch in a Supra is totally fine. With a 7mge (NA) build I would get to know rock auto (website for oem parts if available), Driftmotion for aftermarket and oem and find the online TSRM. (Would link it but I'm on cell).

You don't need to overbuild a NA Supra really, unless you plan to drift.

The valve cover gaskets need to be done correctly (search).

Remember that your wire harness may be brittle, inspect and be careful with it.

If possible do at the very least a compression test on what your using. And use Toyota red antifreeze in the rad for a proper build.

Your clutch master/slave is easy to do later if needed, but rockauto has them for about 80.00.

 

[gs2040215]

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Templates/frmTemplateM7.asp?SubFolderID=486&SearchYN=N

Cometics top and bottom kit is good for the price, around 250 for it includes a metal head gasket.

also dont forget ARP studs
Im currently in my build and have well over 3 grand on a mostly stock build so be prepared for the unknown, hoses, sensors, cps, wiring, etc.

 

[Grandavi]

Just a note... Long term, metal head gasket is a no-brainer for any 7m... However... You need to lap the block to a precise finish to use that. ARP head studs + MHG = no head gasket issues. (If done properly)
That is proper and most expensive route.

Oem headgasket is far less involved but totally okay, especially for a non turbo. Personally, I wouldn't worry about a drain bung for the turbo on a GE engine because adding a turbo later is problematic. I'm not a fan of the 7mge-T because there are other issues. That setup is more intense and costly.., you have to build for it from the bottom up.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Again many thanks. I belong to forums for each of the cars I've owned and I really like how into it you guys are Hopefully I'll have something constructive to add eventually.

Searching hard I've managed to get the engine pricing down a bit. We're probably going to decide which 7MGE to buy early next week and the job'll start. Since the clutch master/slave is easy I'll skip it, it'll help keep the cost down.

Turbo, non turbo, swap, no swap, arrrgh! lol. I think I'll add the drain bung, what harm would it do? And it sounds like a nice little selling point if he ever sells it. However after searching I can't figure out what it is/where is goes. Any pointers?

Pete

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Oh I see:

"... put my drain about 2 inches forward of the oil cooler return hole. Weld in a -10AN bung if you can."

Pete

 

[Piece-it Pete]

I was told if I have to swap the oil pump anyway to replace it. I see they're fairly expensive. Do they fail?

Pete

 

[Backlash2032]

They just get worn and it's fairly cheap insurance so your new engine doesn't do what your old engine did. Get the turbo pump if you decide to replace it.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Awesome, thanks! So updated:

...

Alright, we're just going to replace it straight up. Want else should we do while we've got the engine out? List so far:

Timing belt kit/ front seals/ water pump (have the parts already)
Rear engine seal
Clutch kit (exedy)
Front and rear tranny seals
Slave cylinder? -NO
Oil pan gasket? -NO
Swap over all the tuneup parts on the old engine, plugs wires hoses belts valve cover gaskets etc
Retorque head
Starter & wires

*Turbo oil pump
*02 sensor

Am I missing anything?

Pete

 

[Grandavi]

The only thing I don't like about the 7MGE engine being turbo'd (7MGE-T) is the oil squirters don't exist on the GE. Not sure if you can add those, probably can but I haven't walked that path.

 

[Piece-it Pete]

Btw starters seem pretty year specific. Will a 91 starter fit on a (possibly) slightly older engine?

Pete