MK2+7M+v160+5.29 final drive

[NashMan]

special is building a car truck flat bed thing that has big power

 

[Poodles]

I have never had failure that was my fault you judgemental prick, your shit blew up more then mine I went though 2 motors one stock and my prized one that was stolen form me from the same person

Oh, really, your last motor didn't go boom on the dyno? Not to mention anyone can see it was your fault expecting the same tune to work with a much different setup. Have fun building grenades.

THIS IS WHY SUPRAMANIA GETS A BAD WRAP

smarten up Ian and stop being so judgemental

Supramania gets a "bad wrap" because we don't tolerate misinformation, trolling, being a general cunt, etc.


Anyway, back to the thread, there are a few issues here.

- Higher diff gear ratios get smaller and smaller pinion gears making them weak.
- I don't know about the V160, but as a general rule the overdrive gears aren't designed for high load use.
- Years ago someone was trying to make a high horsepower NA 7M just like you. I don't remember him ever finishing it.

There's a ton of issues with trying to make big NA power with the 7M. Your only real way to get a lot of power is through RPM, and nothing about the engine is designed for it. The crank will need a lot of work to be lightened and balanced. It's a long stroke motor. I won't even get into the head design and valvetrain.

Yes, Honda can put out motors with more than 100HP/liter, but they're short stroke, modern engine designs with VTEC. Don't knock it, VTEC allows cam profiles at high RPM that wouldn't even idle. Variable valve timing isn't quite as powerful, and the 7M lacks both.

I'm not saying it couldn't be done with a 7M, but you're going to spend a LOT of money doing it, and you're going to stress the internals a hell of a lot more than some forced induction (S/C, Turbo, nitrous).

Is there any reason you're set on the 7M?

 

[Albert]

 

[te72]

Steven will be revin his 7m to 10,500rpm

Now what!?!

Also a drag car. I have faith in Steven, but I will believe it when I see it actually work. Get the GoPro ready and prove us wrong!

- Years ago someone was trying to make a high horsepower NA 7M just like you. I don't remember him ever finishing it.

I believe you speak of the "101mm stroke of insanity" build thread from a while back. I don't remember who it was now though... he popped in to say hi not too long ago on here.

 

[mecevans]

I believe you speak of the "101mm stroke of insanity" build thread from a while back. I don't remember who it was now though... he popped in to say hi not too long ago on here.

Believe that was "Defiant7m" .

 

[NashMan]

Oh, really, your last motor didn't go boom on the dyno? Not to mention anyone can see it was your fault expecting the same tune to work with a much different setup. Have fun building grenades.





Supramania gets a "bad wrap" because we don't tolerate misinformation, trolling, being a general cunt, etc.


Anyway, back to the thread, there are a few issues here.

- Higher diff gear ratios get smaller and smaller pinion gears making them weak.
- I don't know about the V160, but as a general rule the overdrive gears aren't designed for high load use.
- Years ago someone was trying to make a high horsepower NA 7M just like you. I don't remember him ever finishing it.

There's a ton of issues with trying to make big NA power with the 7M. Your only real way to get a lot of power is through RPM, and nothing about the engine is designed for it. The crank will need a lot of work to be lightened and balanced. It's a long stroke motor. I won't even get into the head design and valvetrain.

Yes, Honda can put out motors with more than 100HP/liter, but they're short stroke, modern engine designs with VTEC. Don't knock it, VTEC allows cam profiles at high RPM that wouldn't even idle. Variable valve timing isn't quite as powerful, and the 7M lacks both.

I'm not saying it couldn't be done with a 7M, but you're going to spend a LOT of money doing it, and you're going to stress the internals a hell of a lot more than some forced induction (S/C, Turbo, nitrous).

Is there any reason you're set on the 7M?

I said I was not going to get into it since my lawyer is telling me not to so keep your nose were it blongs out of my business


every thing will be explained later on


and you just fully showed what you expect to get around here...... well off to go to my job as a mechanic

 

[te72]

Believe that was "Defiant7m" .

You got it. Thanks, I had forgotten the guy's screen name. Supposedly he's back to finish what he started, I'm looking forward to it!

 

[NashMan]

^ ya good old Allen I hope he finshes it, I really wondering what the power curve of that motor will be , that and the sound

ps he should nick name it a 8mge

 

[suprasom]

interested In 7M+V160 if people would get back to the topic..

 

[IndigoMKII]

I'm interested in seeing the bellhousing..

 

[NAscreamer]

Well Poodles, you’re not the only one that plays with fire. Lots of good info on here thanks guys. Even all this negativity from time to time is good. All that tells me is I have to build a super stout engine with lots of one off stuff. Like you said Poodles, the only way to make “big” power out of this engine is through RPMS. If you call 230-270hp big power. Properly blueprinted and machined block is going to be key here. I made up my mind about de-stroking the engine. Not sure yet how low to go. I have the original 5M engine, if memory serves me correctly; it’s a 85mm stroke. Does that crank fit in a 7M block? That’s a 6mm difference right there. If not I checked out SIP racing and they de-stroke crankshafts up to 12mm and that would put me at 79mm stroke with the 7M crank. NashMash had said that they make a Main Cap Girdle but I couldn’t find it. If they don’t, Ill have to have one made, a real beefy one. I’m going dry sump oiling. I don’t want to have to worry about oil at those RPMS. Also I can go low tension rings that should help with parasitic loss. The scavenging is real helpful and I can have more oil capacity in the system going this route. I can also go with more clearance with my bearings. I was also thinking about a cap girdle for the cams, anyone ever heard of that being done? Is that a good idea for sustained RPMS and a hot cam? I’m sure its most likely over kill but I would rather over build than under build it and blow the thing up. If I do that, I think I might have to have a spacer made for the valve covers to clear the girdle. As far as why I want to go 7M instead of anything else. I don’t want to veer too far off what was originally in the car. So that rules out 1Jz, 2Jz and 1Uz. I didn’t stay with the 5M due to the two valve issue. I prefer having a four valve and I don’t think there is too much of a difference between the two engines. Hey Poodles, what where you talking about head design and valve train? Any knowledge would great. Please share!!!!!
As far as the diff and pinion gears go, this is going to be a lightened MKII. Also, I won’t be doing fifth or sixth gear pulls on it or anything like that. Also as NashMash had pointed out earlier, those generate a lot of heat. I do plan on making a diff cooler for it. If anyone has any ideas for it I would love to hear them. As far as the v160 and the bell housing goes, I think the only way to do it might be getting a R154 bell housing and cutting both bell housings and welding them together. Using the back half of the v160 obviously and the part that bolts to the engine on the R154.

 

[mytmk3]

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?639351-7mgte-getrag-bellhousing

havent looked here for a while but here is the thread about the getrag adapter plate

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?639351-7mgte-getrag-bellhousing

photos on second page

 

[NashMan]

Well Poodles, you’re not the only one that plays with fire. Lots of good info on here thanks guys. Even all this negativity from time to time is good. All that tells me is I have to build a super stout engine with lots of one off stuff. Like you said Poodles, the only way to make “big” power out of this engine is through RPMS. If you call 230-270hp big power. Properly blueprinted and machined block is going to be key here. I made up my mind about de-stroking the engine. Not sure yet how low to go. I have the original 5M engine, if memory serves me correctly; it’s a 85mm stroke. Does that crank fit in a 7M block? That’s a 6mm difference right there. If not I checked out SIP racing and they de-stroke crankshafts up to 12mm and that would put me at 79mm stroke with the 7M crank. NashMash had said that they make a Main Cap Girdle but I couldn’t find it. If they don’t, Ill have to have one made, a real beefy one. I’m going dry sump oiling. I don’t want to have to worry about oil at those RPMS. Also I can go low tension rings that should help with parasitic loss. The scavenging is real helpful and I can have more oil capacity in the system going this route. I can also go with more clearance with my bearings. I was also thinking about a cap girdle for the cams, anyone ever heard of that being done? Is that a good idea for sustained RPMS and a hot cam? I’m sure its most likely over kill but I would rather over build than under build it and blow the thing up. If I do that, I think I might have to have a spacer made for the valve covers to clear the girdle. As far as why I want to go 7M instead of anything else. I don’t want to veer too far off what was originally in the car. So that rules out 1Jz, 2Jz and 1Uz. I didn’t stay with the 5M due to the two valve issue. I prefer having a four valve and I don’t think there is too much of a difference between the two engines. Hey Poodles, what where you talking about head design and valve train? Any knowledge would great. Please share!!!!!
As far as the diff and pinion gears go, this is going to be a lightened MKII. Also, I won’t be doing fifth or sixth gear pulls on it or anything like that. Also as NashMash had pointed out earlier, those generate a lot of heat. I do plan on making a diff cooler for it. If anyone has any ideas for it I would love to hear them. As far as the v160 and the bell housing goes, I think the only way to do it might be getting a R154 bell housing and cutting both bell housings and welding them together. Using the back half of the v160 obviously and the part that bolts to the engine on the R154.

for got to mention he only make's it for dry sump so the stock oil pump wonte work but i was talking with him and he cna make it work with the stock oil pump if you wish

but thsi is big money since it use the billet mina caps wiht ti and just snadwitches them down then you will need a custom oil pan


so this will be about 1000 plus all said and done


alot fo people miss under stood the reason behind the magnesum oil pan that the gruop a car's ran, it was for block stiff-ness to stop flexing under upper rpms

if you really want to do this the only guy to really talk about this is

http://rides.modified.com/ride/1007534/texas-cressida/1989/toyota/cressida/index.html his user name is six pack on supra forums

 

[te72]

I didn’t stay with the 5M due to the two valve issue. I prefer having a four valve and I don’t think there is too much of a difference between the two engines.

I would look into custom pistons, or if 7m pistons fit a 5m rod and block. A 6m engine is just a 7m bottom end with 5m head and pistons, perhaps a 7m head can be bolted onto a 5m just as easily. Bam, 4 valve head, de-stroked bottom end, problem solved. Might even be able to get some off-the-shelf parts that are stout enough this way.

However, my knowledge of the 5m is rather limited, so do your homework. Celicasupra.com is a great resource.

Also, it's worth pointing out, although not worth debating, that SIP is no longer a vendor on here. Do your homework as well when dealing with vendors. His work speaks for itself, I'll admit, but as with most things there is more than just one side to the story...