loping idle

[kotu100]

Yep..

OP, I apologize. There could be a lot wrong or just one thing. My bad calling you a noob, but running an open vent BOV without speed density can potentially cause a problem and I think others can verify that. MAF v AFM .. I did have a MKII once with the flapper-type AFM. AFM + IAT = MAF, I understand that and used the wrong terminology.

Sorry for not answering your question, read your original post about opening the BOV at idle and that fixing the problem, first thing that came to mind was the vent to atmo and running an AFM. It could be that you need a lighter spring, as the BOV should open at idle under vacuum. Spring doesn't matter once you're into boost as it'll close anyway.

I apologize, I come from supraforums where everyone acts like a dick lmao.

Good luck sir.

what the fuck are you talkin about dumbass.....
the only time the BOV should open, is when theres extra air in the system, not being used, ie: shifting, or letting off the gas after boosting.

just leave....






*edit* damn IJ ya beat me

 

[boostin300]

Think carefully about this for a few minutes....

I stand by my statement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vTU83Z96-Q

Watch when he starts the car, BOV OPENS. When he revs it and builds boost, it CLOSES. When throttle plate closes, it OPENS again.

If it doesn't open at idle, your spring is too stiff.

APOLOGIES IF I SOUND LIKE A DICK

 

[IJ.]

LOL don't be too harsh he might be able to be saved and become a useful member

 

[kotu100]

aww... otay




by your principle boosting, if the BOV did open at idle, allowing air out of the system that would be messing up the a/f, which is what u said the problem was in the 1st place.

 

[boostin300]

aww... otay




by your principle boosting, if the BOV did open at idle, allowing air out of the system that would be messing up the a/f, which is what u said the problem was in the 1st place.

Wrong. Look where his MAF is. BOV BEFORE THE MAF = AIR ENTERING/LEAVING IS UNMETERED = OKAY TO DO

REally I did NOT come on here to be a dick. LOL at trying

 

[IJ.]

I stand by my statement.



Watch when he starts the car, BOV OPENS. When he revs it and builds boost, it CLOSES. When throttle plate closes, it OPENS again.

If it doesn't open at idle, your spring is too stiff.

APOLOGIES IF I SOUND LIKE A DICK

You didn't think about it carefully did you?

If it's an Atmo vent BoV and it works as you describe it's in effect bypassing the aircleaner and sucking dirts rocks and small animals into an idling engine....

As I posted earlier BoV's work on a pressure differential across the valve so you need vacuum+positive pressure in the intake before they will open, there is NO positive pressure at idle unless you have a GT90 with an AR.01.

What you're describing is a factory bypass valve not a BoV.

 

[kotu100]

im confused... r we still talkin about supras?

oh n IJ, the Tial thing bugged me for a while, my buddy's tial 50mm does the same thing, but its on a 2j. i tried tellin him there was somthin wrong if it was open at idle, but the second ANY gas is applied it closes.

 

[boostin300]

You didn't think about it carefully did you?

If it's an Atmo vent BoV and it works as you describe it's in effect bypassing the aircleaner and sucking dirts rocks and small animals into an idling engine....

As I posted earlier BoV's work on a pressure differential across the valve so you need vacuum+positive pressure in the intake before they will open, there is NO positive pressure at idle unless you have a GT90 with an AR.01.

What you're describing is a factory bypass valve not a BoV.

This is what your BOV should look like if you're trying to do it the right way. NOTICE THE FILTER

HOW THE HELL DO YOU HAVE VACUUM AND POSITIVE PRESSURE AT THE SAME TIME LAUGHING MY ASS OFF? THERE IS NO POSITIVE PRESSURE AT IDLE BECAUSE IT IS VACUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMM AND SHOULD PULL OPEN THE BOV WITH THE FILTER ON IT ASSUMING YOUR IDLE VALVE IS ALREADY BYPASSED AND YOU HAVE A FILTER ON THE BOV AND THE CORRECT SPRING IN THE BOV........ IF YOU DID ALL THIS YOU DID IT CORRECTLY YAY FOR BOV WIN LOL

 

[thevork]

Mr boostin,

Can you please explain why my HKS SSQV is fully closed at idle ?
Maybe it's broken or something.

To keep ontopic, the 1.000.000 question is now: What BOV does the TS have?


edit:

HOW THE HELL DO YOU HAVE VACUUM AND POSITIVE PRESSURE AT THE SAME TIME

That's exactly what's happening when you close the throttle. Positive pressure in the intake pipes VS vacuum in the plenum.
you do the math

 

[kotu100]

This is what your BOV should look like if you're trying to do it the right way. NOTICE THE FILTER

http://www.cimotorsports.net/images/T/blitz%20blow off valve filter.jpg
http://www.digcat.com/f_images/bovmod.jpg

HOW THE HELL DO YOU HAVE VACUUM AND POSITIVE PRESSURE AT THE SAME TIME LAUGHING MY ASS OFF? THERE IS NO POSITIVE PRESSURE AT IDLE BECAUSE IT IS VACUUUUMMMMMMMMMMMMMM AND SHOULD PULL OPEN THE BOV WITH THE FILTER ON IT ASSUMING YOUR IDLE VALVE IS ALREADY BYPASSED AND IF YOU DID YOUR BUILD CORRECTLY THIS IS ALREADY DONE LOL

:slap::: IJ. ::

 

[IJ.]

The spring "should" keep it closed at idle...... :nono:
(why do you think there's a spring in there at all?)

It's almost midnight here I've had a long day and you're starting to really piss me off with the ALL CAPS BULLSHIT.

 

[kotu100]

i give up... OP, when u get back please let me know what the KAR reading on your safc is, this will let us know if its an air flow related problem.

boostin, read this... i guess HKS doesnt know anything about how their own BOV's work
http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=792

 

[thevork]

Your HKS SSQV is fully closed at idle because 1) your adjustment is off (you have the old model SSQV) 2) you have the new SSQV and it IS broken
3) Your running the stock idle valve, BOV IS CLOSED BECAUSE THE VACUUM IS COMING THROUGH THE IDLE VALVE. A car built the correct way already has the stock idle blocked. 1 and 2 are assuming you've already blocked off your stock idle. If you haven't, neither of those apply.

SSQV operates a diaphram and has no spring but does act the same as one with a spring.

ROFLMAO!

CORRECT, you have vacuum in the PLENUM and thats AFTER the throttle. That doesnt effect the BOV becuase the BOV it is BEFORE the throttle. You do NOT have vacuum and boost in the intake tract before the throttle.

of course not that's why we run a hose from the plenum to the valve.

 

[IJ.]

You have a vacuum SIGNAL in the manifold to the back of the BoV, you have positive pressure in the IC pipes before the TB, you close the TB and the vacuum signal is strong enough combined with the Positive pressure in the IC pipe to overcome the spring pressure.

Why the fuck do you think they make different springs and allow for preload and adjustment in BoV's?

Seriously just SHUT THE FUCK UP and stop regurgitating BULLSHIT you find on the Internet.

Adjustment to the BOV III PB is made by rotating the cap (see figure 1), to increase
spring tension rotate in the direction of hard, marked on the top of the cap
- Rotate the cap in the direction of soft to decrease the spring tension – CAUTION Do
not rotate the cap beyond the indicator groove (see figure 1)
- With the engine at idle the exhaust port should be closed off by the piston – the piston
should be hard against the seat and not floating or moving
- Free rev the engine and back off quickly, the engine should return to normal idle
speed – if the engine drops below idle or stalls increase the spring tension by half a
turn
- Repeat this process until the engine free revs and returns to normal idle speed
- Test drive the car and ensure that when decelerating or changing gears that the
engine does not backfire or stall. If backfiring or stalling is noticed then check all
connections made during the installation, otherwise increase the spring tension

 

[kotu100]

can someone delete this guys posts, wouldnt want anyone thinking hes actually right.

 

[jdub]

If Boostin300 posts in this thread again, please report the post. His last 2 entries have been deleted.
For the record, his previous posts concerning how a BOV works is flat wrong.

Back on topic...the BOV has nothing to do with the OP's problem and and further discussion about the BOV will be dealt with harshly.
Do not test me on this.

 

[jdub]

Hey people, just trying to figure out whats goin on with my 7m and its strange idle lope / potential misfire

i dont have an oscilloscope so i cant see misfires perfectly but it sounds like there are a couple misfires here and there when I am idling
however, I have a vent 2 atm bov and when I was playing around, I opened up the BOV with my fingers and suddenly she idled perfectly

This leads me to think that my engine is running super lean? I cant really tell because I am still installing my innovate wideband, (which has taken a while because .. well other things) and I have no other way of telling

I do have an safc2 but everything is set to 0%. I checked for vacuum leaks but none as I can tell so far, perhaps I'll keep looking.

The only thing that was left open was the PCV air inlet on the throttle, but even when i plug it with my finger it doesnt change anything, at least much.

Ideals ppl? thanks

This (bold) is a vac leak...the TB has an orifice for the PCV. You do need to have a functional PCV (under vac) for this motor. Route it same as stock and clear the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse to reset learned idle.

Check for cracks/leaks in the accordion pipe. As much as I hate to mention the BOV again, make sure it does not leak...just ignore everything a previous, certain individual had to say about it.

Do you have any codes?
Have you unplugged the ISCV as previously suggested to see if the lope stopped?

 

[gotsomegetsome]

kar reads between 34-40 hz at idle
idle flux half the time from cold start, and half the time from warm but not really op temp

what baffles me the most is exactly this (random idles, like not consistantly cold or warm when idle is screwy) and that the idle is PERFECT when the bov is opened with my finger or whatever at idle

anyways, so this is all tested with the BOV CLOSED AT IDLE
i tried searching for vac leaks and i think i might have one after the vac tubing port on the side of the intake mani for the boost gauge and all. idk i'll figure that out but even when i plug that up it makes no difference.

p.s. what is the question about the kar change? are you trying to see if the air flow through the sensor is the same amount going in the engine suggesting a vac leak? then what would cause an occasional idle that if the pitch or speed were mapped on a graph it would look like a sine wave. anyways im baffles so thanks for all the help



edit:
sorry JDUB i didnt see your post. I will be sure to fix that pcv deal asap. I havnt tried that yet so we shall see and I will hope it works haha

 

[kotu100]

yea i think you may have a leak in the system somewhere, my kar reads between 18-21 at idle (operating temp) during warm up its a lil closer to your numbers.

see if the numbers change if you wiggle the AFM wires, or what they go to when you open the BOV.

 

[gotsomegetsome]

yea i think you may have a leak in the system somewhere, my kar reads between 18-21 at idle (operating temp) during warm up its a lil closer to your numbers.

see if the numbers change if you wiggle the AFM wires, or what they go to when you open the BOV.

well how do i fix it if it is either of those? i mean if is the wires obviously replace because the resistance or what not is too high, but if they go up when i open the bov, and i am sure they go up, what should i do?


p.s. I am just curious as to why the engine will speed up when I open the bov, not to revive any idiotic comments from earlier, but i am just curious