Mr dude;1582923 said:
Btw, my battery light stays on all the time. The alternator is working fine, no issues at all. It's probably a wiring thing, but how do I fix it....
My battery light is on constantly too. My volt gauge shows 14.0, and the TSRM test all pass. The wiring listed here for the battery light is incorrect, along with a few other related things.
• Grey/Green – Blue/Yellow of IK1 and Yellow/Green from IJ1 (Engine Light)
The yellow/green wire on the engine side that is connected to the grey/green check engine light wire on the body side is what I think the problem is. The 89' supra diagram shows the yellow/green wire is used for the alt-L terminal on the body side, and the JZZ30 uses the same wire color for that wire. The 87' MA70 chassis uses a solid yellow wire (at least, at the alternator connector it does).
There shouldn't be two wires to the CEL from the engine harness, the 7MGTE ecu uses a single "W" pin to ground the CEL, and the soarer ECU pinout shows a single "W" pin also. Only that one pin should be connected for the CEL to function.
What could cause a real problem was if the car turned on the check engine light while the alternator was spinning, this would probably burn the CEL ground circuit in the ECU (or worse). I haven't had a problem so far because my CEL has only lit up with the "KOEO light show" routine and not because of a code.
I checked into this, and that wiring connection is incorrect. The yellow/green wire from the alt-L terminal should NOT splice into the grey/green and blue/yellow wires for the CEL.
If the yellow/green wire (from IJ1/the alternator) is connected to the battery light directly, it will work correctly. The problem is, it looks like the yellow wire for the battery light isn't in the cluster of body plugs near the ECU at all on the MA70 chassis. It looks like it runs from where the old alternator plug was, along the drivers side of the engine bay, through the grommet in the drivers side of the firewall and go directly to the cluster from there. You'd have to run a wire from the alternator L terminal (yellow/green wire, once again) over to the old alternator plug's yellow wire.
While diagnosing this I found another problem, and this is the reason my battery light, lamp-out light and brake warning light were all stuck on.... AND the reason my starter only worked half of the time.
The alt-L terminal from the old alternator wiring is the solid yellow wire that was on the old alternator connector. Now it's wired to the black wire on the EB2 plug. That's not correct. The yellow/green wire from the alternator should be wired to it instead, as the only purpose of that yellow wire is to send signal power to the battery light.
I disconnected the black wire from it. My battery light, lamp-out light, and "brake" light are all off now when the car is running (unless I pull a rear bulb, or yank the e-brake... then they turn on as they should).
About that black wire in EB2 that's now disconnected from the yellow wire (take note that it is, however, still connected to the black wire from EB1)....that wire is *kind of* hooked up wrong too.
That wire is the starter solenoid main power wire. In the JZZ30 this wire was used to send power from the starter relay to the starter solenoid. The power came to the underhood starter relay from the underhood fuse box through the 60A main fuse. The MA70, however, has the starter solenoid inside under the passengers kick panel, so the black wire at the EB2 plug is completely going to the wrong area.
The way this guide has it... it's getting power that's being fed through the black wire that was cut from EB1 and connected to EB2. The power runs all the way from the B1 plug under the dash... out to the EB2 plug by the battery... and backwards through the same harness to the starter solenoid.
The real problem is the wire in EB1 (which is black/white at the body plugs in B1) was only designed to send a maximum of 7.5A of current to signal the starter relay to turn on. This wire was never designed to take the full load of the starter solenoid. The wiring is too small, and the extra 6 feet of length (from running it the long way) magnifies the voltage drop. I'm only getting 8.5V at my solenoid when I hit the key to start.
This is why so many people doing this swap are having problems with the starter not working reliably... there's not enough juice on that wire for the solenoid to fire properly. It might work fine with a brand new starter, but a slightly older (but still acceptable) starter might act like mine and click every other try rather than actually start (this is infuriating when you try to show your friend the new motor swap you've just completed, BTW).
The right way to wire that would be to run a new wire from the heavy gauge black/white wire on the B1 plug to the starter solenoid directly (I intend to do this). You can abandon the black wire from EB1 and the black wire in EB2 as they will both be dead once disconnected at the starter and the B1 plug.
I also plan to hook the battery light up correctly (eventually). I'm going to splice a wire from the yellow/green wire at the alternator plug right to that yellow wire that I disconnected from the black wire in EB2 above. For now I clipped and taped off the yellow/green wire where it was spliced with the other two at the body plugs (this needs to be done no matter what).
I should probably say this too...
No disrespect to the OP, I just wanted to post my solutions to these problems. The rest of the wiring info was a huge help. These were the only mistakes I found so far.
Although, I would also like to see if something can be done so that my fuel pump doesn't run the entire time the key is on (KOEO it should only run to prime, then the ECU should shut it off). I suspect that this won't be easy as I believe the JZZ30 used a fuel pump computer. I may just wire a dash switch to turn the fuel pump on and off. My reason for this is that I'm afraid I'll kill my battery (and wear my fuel pump) every time I leave the key on for more than a few minutes to test stuff or listen to the radio (if I ever install a radio).
---------- Post added at 05:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:12 PM ----------
roystunna;1678779 said:
Black/Yellow – Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)
Hey, can one of you guys clarify which wire this is? i have wired almost everything else except for this one wire "Black/Yellow from plug on engine harness loom (VSV Water)". Im swapping a soarer 1JZ automatic into an 89 turbo/manual tranny. Thanks
The soarer harness should have an obvious 2-pin heater VSV plug sticking out of the main harness. It's the closest thing to the firewall grommet that branches out of the main harness. Use a meter to test which wire that one connects to back at the body plugs. On mine it was a small white connector that also had a few A/C wires in it.
---------- Post added at 05:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:17 PM ----------
87supraguy;1571479 said:
again it's been asked on here and not answered unless i missed it... it there a difference between soarer and chaser harness ? i've used this guide and i'm not gettign anywhere.. which leads me to believe i may have a chaser harness... but the ecu connected to it says jzz30 but my 1jz has TRC on the throttle body?
Mine was a JZZ30 and this worked for me, mine did not have TRC. Not sure what it is you have, possibly a newer year that had some changes?
