How to separate 89+ tail lens from the housing, to prepare for a LED retrofit

tekdeus

Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Jan 23, 2006
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Vancouver Canada
www.bitrontech.com
As some of you guys are thinking about retrofitting LED's into your tails, I thought I would share some of my findings and mistakes to save you the trouble.

Tools you will need: An oven, tin foil and cookie sheet, leather gloves, putty knife, goo gone(to clean up any glue smudges on the lens afterwards)
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I had a spare cracked 89+ tail to test out first. Into the oven it went for 8 minutes at 300 degrees, face down on a cookie sheet covered with tin foil.
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Good thing I had a spare one to break! I did not realize that the lens had metal rivets holding it in as well as the glue.
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I also cracked it here:
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It cracked by pulling it up wards like this, putting too much leverage on the lens:
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A small cuttoff wheel and a dremel is the best way to cut the heads off these little bastards.
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Now, with balls of steel, I stuck my mint JDM tail into the oven! It was not budging before I knew about the steel rivets, but now that they're cut off, it came apart quite nicely. I gently pushed from the inside with my thumbs to get it started (this cracked the diffuser in my USDM lens by the way). Once I could get the putty knife all the way in between the lens and the housing, I slid it sideways, all the way around to seprate the lens without stressing it. The inner parts and diffusers pop out easily from here. It worked well enough that I would be confident to to it again. The heat was enough to soften the glue but not melt or damage the lens or housing.
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This was a surprise! The plastic lens is the same for both the JDM and USDM tails. The difference is the darker parts behind the lens make it appear darker:
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Now for this, I NEED YOUR HELP GUYS! What product can I use to get this silver paint off the back of the center section? I tried a wire brush and sandpaper on a spare broken peice I have, and it's just damaging the plastic. I must get this paint off in order to light the center up and have it match the side lenses. Help!
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AF1JZ

Almost civilian status...
Jun 26, 2006
3,109
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Fredericksburg, VA
I'll tell you from experience not to use paint remover. You might be able to keep sanding it and keep going to a finer grit till you get to 2000 grit. Plastic can be a real pain in the ass.
 

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
Oct 16, 2005
2,738
9
38
36
Virginia
yep, stay away from paint stripper. itll usually soften all plastics to the point of no return. i ruined a few cell phone covers this way :)
 

trydrew

Suprafied
Nov 4, 2005
1,038
0
36
Earth
That's really helpful.

Have you thought about brake fluid for the paint? Or is it more of a plasitcy type coating?
 

johnathan1

Supra =
Aug 19, 2005
5,056
1
38
36
Downey, California, United States
Maybe try soaking it in rubbing alcohol overnight or for a couple of days?

I know that people that modify powerbook's use that method to get the silver paint off of the inside of laptop cases.

The light wont pass through the paint at all? Maybe you can sand it down just enough for the LEDs to show through?
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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Corvallis OR
NO! do not use alcohol, it will "craze" the plastic and make it much more brittle and prone to cracking.
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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61
Corvallis OR
I have opened a few tail lights and I have a slightly different method. I use a soldering iron to heat the little pins and pry them out. Then I use a hair dryer to heat up the butyl rubber seal and slowly pry the two pieces apart. It has worked well for 3 sets so far.
 

tekdeus

Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Jan 23, 2006
2,115
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Vancouver Canada
www.bitrontech.com
I have found what looks to be a promising product designed to strip paint from model cars without damaging the plastic. I'll let you guys know how it goes. I may get a red plexiglass circle made up to plug the keyhole. Not sure yet!
 

tekdeus

Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Jan 23, 2006
2,115
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0
Vancouver Canada
www.bitrontech.com
theWeezL said:
I have opened a few tail lights and I have a slightly different method. I use a soldering iron to heat the little pins and pry them out. Then I use a hair dryer to heat up the butyl rubber seal and slowly pry the two pieces apart. It has worked well for 3 sets so far.

I can see how the soldering iron would work. Several of the pins almost popped out by themselves from the high heat as I was cutting them. Do you reinstall them? I'm contemplating the necessity of these pins. I'll be using new butyl rubber.

You may want to try the oven method. It's a great way to guarantee even heat through all the seams.