VSV should connect FPR to vacuum port with no power to it (which is the normal condition).
With power it vents FPR to air through the little filter.
With power it vents FPR to air through the little filter.
Help! Supra doesn't run right
- Thread starter Abe's 1987
- Start date
If it test good on the bench then yes.
The coil has 12V to one side all the time with ignition on (black red wire). The ECU grounds the other side of the coil to actuate it (red blue wire). If the red-blue wire is getting shorted somewhere then the VSV will be on all the time. It should get hot if its powered up all the time though.
The coil has 12V to one side all the time with ignition on (black red wire). The ECU grounds the other side of the coil to actuate it (red blue wire). If the red-blue wire is getting shorted somewhere then the VSV will be on all the time. It should get hot if its powered up all the time though.
Sweet got my walbro pump in today. Question, I had ordered another cheap Chinese pump and it didn't have oil on it. I get the walbro pump and it has an oil on the pump. Is that normal to oil the outside of the pump? Should i clean the oil off?
Likely there to keep a surface rust from forming on the pump housing before install.
You could clean it off with a solvent before installing into the tank.
Or could just leave it, since gasoline is also a solvent that will clean it off
You could clean it off with a solvent before installing into the tank.
Or could just leave it, since gasoline is also a solvent that will clean it off
Got the pump installed and in the tank. Will have the tank installed hopefully tomorrow. Then got to drill out the j-tube and then fire her up. Fingers crossed!!!
halle freakin lujah the beast runs. Got everything back together and she runs. Buuuuutt!!! As f00g00 stated the walbro pumps doesn't have a built in check valve. So I need to buy and external check valve and figure out where to connect it. Anyone have any ideas on setting up a inline check valve on the stock fuel system? Where to install it? How to install it? Which one to buy?
Also at idle it has fuel pressure of 32 psi and jumps to 40 psi when revved up, but the fpr vsv is still not letting vac to the fpr!
Still some issues but at least the main problem is solved.
Also at idle it has fuel pressure of 32 psi and jumps to 40 psi when revved up, but the fpr vsv is still not letting vac to the fpr!
Still some issues but at least the main problem is solved.
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I opened up the brake system only to find out there where a lot of problems. Pads were fused to the rotors. Rear driver caliper lower guide pin was seized. Driver e-brake shoe material broke off the shoe and fused to the rotor. Passenger top guide pin is bent and spins. And seemed like the passenger front rotor is warped. And rotors has rust.
Getting new rear guide pin. New front rotor. And will clean the hell out of the system. And will regrease all the guide pins and clean the rubber boots for the guide pins.
Other then that still need to figure out the fpr vsv problem and find a way to add a inline fuel check valve. And take the starter back to be replaced.
Getting new rear guide pin. New front rotor. And will clean the hell out of the system. And will regrease all the guide pins and clean the rubber boots for the guide pins.
Other then that still need to figure out the fpr vsv problem and find a way to add a inline fuel check valve. And take the starter back to be replaced.
Or more so going and then stopping. Tires weren't even turning as pads and rotors were fused. Pretty sure driving would have broken them free but would rather make sure the pad and rotor contact would come free compared to pad breaking free off the pad backing. And of course need the side to side motion on the guide pins to actually flow side to side.
But yeah it's moving along. Just used rustoleum rust remover on the rotors. Did a fairly good job. Could go for a second run on there to be fully clean. Will most likely have the rotors turned as well. Also working on cleaning all the hardware as well.
Ok after looking and looking around I think I found an idea on the fuel check valve.
www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-6506...WuZFWnF2JDZkqA9PRMqJLLluy6IcDboUaAvJbEALw_wcB
I'd get this and find adapters to fit it to the flex pipe and sender unit. That way there would be no chance for the fuel pressure to break the line free as it would be threaded on. What do you guys think?
A few questions though,
1. what is the thread size of the connection of the flex pipe to the sender unit?
2. would the check valve be restrictive for the fuel flow?
3. what would be the harm of not having a fuel check valve?
4. does the check valve have to be close to the pump or can it I put it closer to the fuel rails?
www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-6506...WuZFWnF2JDZkqA9PRMqJLLluy6IcDboUaAvJbEALw_wcB
I'd get this and find adapters to fit it to the flex pipe and sender unit. That way there would be no chance for the fuel pressure to break the line free as it would be threaded on. What do you guys think?
A few questions though,
1. what is the thread size of the connection of the flex pipe to the sender unit?
2. would the check valve be restrictive for the fuel flow?
3. what would be the harm of not having a fuel check valve?
4. does the check valve have to be close to the pump or can it I put it closer to the fuel rails?
Most everybody says if I have plans of more power to go walbro 255 which I did. Which decent pump is there that has more fuel flow then stock that has an integrated check valve?
A genuine Walbro GSS34x (255lph) has a check valve, so says the internet! I would clamp the return line shut and double check it won't hold pressure before going to the trouble of putting in that check valve. The FPR could be leaking, or an injector.
Yes the 255's are supposed to have a check valve. (if they work or not is another discussion)
I am tired of my 255 no longer holding pressure in the lines overnight.
Switching to a higher quality unit soon.
Here is a useful table for some common fuel pumps.
http://www.foreinnovations.com/category_s/388.htm
I will likely move to a TI Auto 400, 405 or 450.
I am tired of my 255 no longer holding pressure in the lines overnight.
Switching to a higher quality unit soon.
Here is a useful table for some common fuel pumps.
http://www.foreinnovations.com/category_s/388.htm
I will likely move to a TI Auto 400, 405 or 450.
I did get a genuine walbro gss341 255lph pump as it says on the pump.
Could vac not getting to the fpr have any thing to do with pressure leaking after engine turned off?
Will test out the fpr!!
I plan on upping the power later but will the ti auto 400, 405, or 450 be to much flow for a stock system?