Help me identify this part!

ILikeCarsYesIDo

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Nov 26, 2007
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GrimJack;930152 said:
I'm going to start selling clues on ebay. I figure I should be able to retire in about a week.

pic190573_md.jpg
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
ILikeCarsYesIDo;930129 said:
I fail to see the problem. I had a similar situation in which the "nipple" simply cracked off with age.

And a junkyard part would never be aged like that would it? Btw I don't buy my parts from those thieves in Fremont. If you read the thread you'd know I paid $30 for a near identical new part.

starscream5000;930101 said:
Blind ones Gary, blind ones ;)

Indeed. First we have the OP who, based on this and his clutch thread, seems incapable of even amoeba level critical thinking. Then we have the self proclaimed "senior engineering student" who, post after post, clearly shows he made a bad career choice. Finally we have the backyard mechanic who doesn't understand a used part will have been thermally fatigued in the same manner as like parts, resulting in yet another pattern failure of said part and one that could overheat the engine.
 

ILikeCarsYesIDo

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Boo hoo. My heater valve cracked due to 270K+ miles of use. The Supras you see in junkyards barely have half that.

It could overheat the engine if the part fails, but that's assuming you're deaf and cannot HEAR the water and air behind the dash, and the air quickly becoming cold.

Name-calling is fun ;)
 

supraGhost

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well i guess if we all knew as much as you jetjock, then there would be no need for this forum.


anyhow, i tried the "bypass" idea with terrible results. i have pics for you to check to make sure that i did it correctly.

heres what i think i did wrong.

the fluid resevoir was almost full, so i didnt think it needed any more fluid. this suprised me but i figured i hadnt lost as much as i thought.

is it possible that there was no fluid left in the motor so it couldnt take it from the resevoir tank? so i was running my motor dry????:aigo:

i went down the highway, normal speeds. it seemed to be idling high.... figured it was my imagination from being paranoid. then i heard a slight grinding noise so i got off the highway near my friends house. at the exit ramp it shut off. i could smell antifreeze slightly. i started it back up and drove to my friends house like a minute away. the grinding noise got a little worse but wasnt loud and i coudl only hear it when i was at higher rpms.

i think it overheated? the engine seemed pretty warm (but it is 20 outside) and my engine temp gauge doesnt work:3d_frown:

here are the pics. did i hook it up right? oh and btw, the car wont start now. it sounds like it wants to but it doesnt. (i just got here 15 minutes ago)

p930338_1.jpg

p930338_2.jpg

p930338_3.jpg
 

suprarcr89

The Juggernaut has my old
supraGhost;929889 said:
so basically just connect the bottom and top hoses together? sweet. and then i wont have any heat? :3d_frown: oh well lol



you will have heat.. your still feeding the heater core your just bypassing a valve thats there to keep the coolant from flowing through the heater core when you have the heat off if you bypass this valve you will just have coolant flowing through the heater core at all times....



ok as for your recent problems... you lost coolant but because your resevoir was full you didnt check your radiator... come on now.... anytime a hose comes off and you loose coolant you fill and burp your system by filling the radiator... and for not having a engine temp gauge even if you have to go to autozone and buy one never drive a car without one your asking for trouble..
 

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Remove the radiator cap and see if there is any coolant in the radiator...

While you can use an online forum as a resource to fill gaps in your knowlege, you can't use it as a replacement for common sense and a basic understanding of what you are doing. If you truly believe that looking in the overflow bottle is the way to check the coolant level after a cooling system repair, stop working on your car until you have at least a basic understanding of how it works.

You don't have to be one of us grumpy old bastards, but you do have to attempt to apply a bit of sense.

If your motor is toast, it wasn't the valve bypass that did it.

It was the owner...
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
ILCYID: How about all the other valves that failed here? Were they from cars that had 270K miles? How about this guy's valve? How about mine that recently failed at 135K? You think my car hasn't been maintained?

That's why it's called a pattern failure. Even if what you said is true the chance is not worth a used part when a new one can be had, even at the dealer price. I'm surprised I have to point this out but seeing as how most MKIII owners are as cheap as they come and infamous for making hack repairs maybe not.

Ghost: Sorry, I'm having a bad day. We'll all get over it. As pointed out you'll still have heat. Frankly that should have been obvious. WTF that comment about it being cold where you live meant is beyond me but considering the source I again shouldn't be surprised. You could have simply connected the two hoses together with a $1 union from any auto store but what you did will work. Course, it may all be moot at this point. And try reading the service manual...it appears you very much need to.
 

supraGhost

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by filling the radiator will that "burp" the system or is their other steps i have to do.


just being careful because i dont want to have to do this again.



man motorcycles are so much simpler.:icon_bigg
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
supraGhost;930338 said:
well i guess if we all knew as much as you jetjock, then there would be no need for this forum.


anyhow, i tried the "bypass" idea with terrible results. i have pics for you to check to make sure that i did it correctly.

heres what i think i did wrong.

the fluid resevoir was almost full, so i didnt think it needed any more fluid. this suprised me but i figured i hadnt lost as much as i thought.
(You had and more)

is it possible that there was no fluid left in the motor so it couldnt take it from the resevoir tank? so i was running my motor dry????:aigo:
(Highly probable)

i went down the highway, normal speeds. it seemed to be idling high.... figured it was my imagination from being paranoid. then i heard a slight grinding noise so i got off the highway near my friends house. at the exit ramp it shut off. i could smell antifreeze slightly. i started it back up and drove to my friends house like a minute away. the grinding noise got a little worse but wasnt loud and i coudl only hear it when i was at higher rpms.
(Idling high because the coolant level was below the temp sensor so the ECU thought it was on a cold start the antifreeze smell was it hitting the Hot head helping to anneal it)
i think it overheated? the engine seemed pretty warm (but it is 20 outside) and my engine temp gauge doesnt work:3d_frown:
(DUH yeah I think so)

here are the pics. did i hook it up right? oh and btw, the car wont start now. it sounds like it wants to but it doesnt. (i just got here 15 minutes ago)
(Stick a fork in it it's done)
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
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idriders.com
supraGhost;930440 said:
by filling the radiator will that "burp" the system or is their other steps i have to do.
No, that is not sufficient.

Here is a free lesson on how to search for information.

- Start from the main menu: http://www.supramania.com/forums/index.php
- Go to the MKIII Supra Reference/Tech-Tips forum.
- On the right side, select Search This Forum. Type in "burp", without the quotes.
- It will return a single thread. Read it for the information you need.
 

supraGhost

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ok system is burped. thanks

when it was sitting there idling, and i hit the gas, it would stutter first and before it would rev. could this be a result of some sort of heat damage?
 

supraGhost

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ok just drove it home from my friends house. it had me very worried. for the first 3 minutes it was idling very low, and it was stuttering and stuff when i would try to accelerate. btu after 3 minutes, it ran perfect! hopefully no more problems.


thanks guys!