Front Main Seal Replacement

[ShadowMKIII]

Anyone have a step by step on replacing the front main oil seal. I got both the 3527b and 90311-52003 seals... I dont want to have to pull off alot of stuff I dont have to... I have searched for a how-to but am unable to locate it.

Thanks in advance for the help as I am about to crawl under it...

 

[Mk3runner]

Gotta pull crank pulley and timing gear and belt.. Not a step by step but that's the jist of it

Plus have a big torque wrench.. Crank pulley specs is somewhere around 200 iirc

 

[ShadowMKIII]

Gotta pull crank pulley and timing gear and belt.. Not a step by step but that's the jist of it

Plus have a big torque wrench.. Crank pulley specs is somewhere around 200 iirc

Can I get the crank pulley off without taking off the fan? also am I gonna have to worry about retiming the car?

 

[ShadowMKIII]

well there is not going to be any work today... The air compressor threw the breaker to the shop as they were doing some body work on it as I was under it.... O well looks like next weekend it is... Atleast then I will have a lift... and can do alot more research...

 

[Mk3runner]

Your gonna have to check the timing when your done.. Just tdc it before hand. I'd pull the fan myself.. Timing it isn't hard.. Just make sure belt tention is good

 

[Mk3runner]

Find a book on it... There's a link to a good one here on a
Sm. Search is your friend

 

[GrimJack]

This is a fairly simple procedure.

Disconnect the battery first.

Drain the coolant, pull the radiator hoses. Remove the fans, waterpump, shroud, and radiator. Remove all belts. Pull off the top timing belt cover, align the engine to TDC using the marks on the cam gears to the notches on the rear timing cover.

Pull the lower belt tensioner. Remove the bolt from the front main pulley and then the front main pulley itself. Chances are you'll need a puller to get the pulley off. Remove the lower timing belt cover. Inspect the timing belt before you pull it for problems - cracking, or any sign that it's slipping forward or back.

Inspect the timing belt tensioner at the same time.

I'd recommend replacing the cam seals, front main, and oil pump shaft seal all at the same time. The oil pump shaft seal is a bit more work, but it's pretty obvious what needs to be done from this point.

Bolt it all back together in reverse order, jumper your diag block and check the timing just to make sure.

 

[NTRA08]

Forgot the AC compressor

 

[jdub]

Might want to consider replacing the timing belt if it's getting long in the tooth. Might as well while you are there. You will have to check/reset timing anyway.

 

[ShadowMKIII]

This is a fairly simple procedure.

Disconnect the battery first.

Drain the coolant, pull the radiator hoses. Remove the fans, waterpump, shroud, and radiator. Remove all belts. Pull off the top timing belt cover, align the engine to TDC using the marks on the cam gears to the notches on the rear timing cover.

Pull the lower belt tensioner. Remove the bolt from the front main pulley and then the front main pulley itself. Chances are you'll need a puller to get the pulley off. Remove the lower timing belt cover. Inspect the timing belt before you pull it for problems - cracking, or any sign that it's slipping forward or back.

Inspect the timing belt tensioner at the same time.

I'd recommend replacing the cam seals, front main, and oil pump shaft seal all at the same time. The oil pump shaft seal is a bit more work, but it's pretty obvious what needs to be done from this point.

Bolt it all back together in reverse order, jumper your diag block and check the timing just to make sure.

Thanks man.... I will have all the other parts in by this weekend so hopefully I can get it all replaced... Then move on to the next issue... Phew im gonna be broke before its all over... lol...

 

[92TealSupra]

You want to also check the timing belt spring and make sure that is in spec, I would also throw in a water pump.

-Teal

 

[ShadowMKIII]

lol... it seems like when I want to do a simple procedure I end up spending an entire weeks check... lol... But thanks for all the input guys. It is helping out alot

 

[Zumtizzle]

Not really.

It's pretty "cheap" compared to having to tow your car home from a trip and having your wife say, "I knew it was gonna break down," and "I told you so."

 

[92TealSupra]

Not really.

It's pretty "cheap" compared to having to tow your car home from a trip and having your wife say, "I knew it was gonna break down," and "I told you so."

Well I do not have a wife but I do have a girl friend, and basically if I say I need a oil chnage she will say what broke, I just smile and walk away.

 

[ShadowMKIII]

Not really.

It's pretty "cheap" compared to having to tow your car home from a trip and having your wife say, "I knew it was gonna break down," and "I told you so."

Well ya'll talked me into it... Now im off to find the best place to get the timing belt and tensioner from... search button here I come!

 

[CyFi6]

I would just do the basic timing belt and seal. I would really consider getting an oil pump drive shaft seal (not sure if that's the other one you got) because its right there and easy to get to right now. Water pump isnt really needed if you don't feel any play in it and no leaks, and tensioner isn't really needed if it spins smoothly without sounding like there is sand in it. Consider camshaft seals while you're there if they are leaking at all. If your timing belt looks good and new there is no reason to really do that either if you are on a very tight budget.

 

[jdub]

lol... it seems like when I want to do a simple procedure I end up spending an entire weeks check... lol... But thanks for all the input guys. It is helping out alot

Keep something in mind, your time has value

Replacing the other seals and a timing belt is easy while you have everything off to replace the main seal. And, it's not that expensive...we're talking about 3 more additional seals and a timing belt. It's the mileage on the belt that matters, not how it looks. BTW - SupraRich sells Gates timing belts...an upgrade over OEM IMO. For the tensioner, I would at least replace the spring if everything else is good...do not over torque the tensioner and check belt play after 500 miles for a possible re-adjust on the tensioner.

The water pump is up to you...it's removal is not required to get to the main seal. I would give it a through inspection though. If you see any coolant at the weep hole on the bottom, it's on it's way to failure.

 

[grimreaper]

cough cough, replace the crank timing belt pulley. Newer one has more welds holding on the belt guide. Make sure the keyway is good too. I always replace the bolts i take off that are vital (crank bolt) and make sure the crank snout has a nice layer of antisieze on it for future work.

 

[92nsx]

It's pretty "cheap" compared to having to tow your car home from a trip and having your wife say, "I knew it was gonna break down," and "I told you so."

Sig worthy :rant:

 

[CyFi6]

cough cough, replace the crank timing belt pulley. Newer one has more welds holding on the belt guide. Make sure the keyway is good too. I always replace the bolts i take off that are vital (crank bolt) and make sure the crank snout has a nice layer of antisieze on it for future work.

I can already smell an argument coming... "They're not welds they are staked".:runaway: