Ok so this is only my second post, but I would like to get some opinions. Ok so my head gasket blew on my 1988 7mgte mk3. I already ordered a HKS stopper style MHG and ARP Studs. I contacted a local shop who has had experience on the mk3. The quoted $800 to remachine the head and block and install the new head gasket. Oh and a new timing belt as well. I also contacted another shop known for taking care of supras. They stated I would need to change my pistons, rings etc. Basically do a full rebuild. Also threw in the option of just doing a full 2jz swap instead since the price range for both jobs were very similar. My question is and as simply put. What should I do? I just want my baby to start running again. She's at 144k miles on the stock motor. Should I consider the rebuild? Do what almost everyone does and swap for a 2jz? Or just replace the head gasket alone? Opinions will be appreciated. To be honest I kind of want to stick with the 7m engine, but what would the better route be? Thank you, also im new to the forums if I happened to post this on the wrong area please let me know. I will remove it immediately. Thank you.
BHG, so many options!
- Thread starter MK3Jay
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you dont need a rebuild, unless you messed up something else like main bearing,pistons or that sort.
but in my opinion just take the engine out get it rebuilt since it has 144xxx miles and im pretty sure your gonna be stomping on that so who know how much life it has left, how much the previous owner beat on it. save your self alot of issues down the road.
im also in LA i could healp you out if you got any other questions.
but in my opinion just take the engine out get it rebuilt since it has 144xxx miles and im pretty sure your gonna be stomping on that so who know how much life it has left, how much the previous owner beat on it. save your self alot of issues down the road.
im also in LA i could healp you out if you got any other questions.
Previous owner used it as his daily driver and the one before him, i believe the original owner. He used it for the same reason. Car is very clean and what i do know is it was garaged for about 11 years. I agree with you on the rebuild though, i mean it's like i might as well just rebuild her. So far that looks like the route im going to take. Sounds good, thanks 
make sure you take it to a reputable shop though.
what shop were you planning on taking it to?
where is it located it at?
what shop were you planning on taking it to?
where is it located it at?
hmm sooo you are getting some interesting info, or relaying it poorly.
1) properly machining the head and block for a MHG is a big job, not because of the head but because of the block. to do it properly, the block should be removed from the car, disassembled, cleaned, and tested for cracks (same with the head, technically, but the head is easier to get off the car and disassemble/reassemble than the block). then the machinist can mill the deck of the block and get it properly smooth and flat for a MHG (i would shoot for an RA of 25 or less (RA = roughness average, and if the machine shop operator looks at you like "wtf is an RA" when you ask for it, you need to find another machine shop)). the block should then be cleaned again because bits and pieces of metal will inevitably get into places that will later cause engine failure if they are not properly cleaned out. this is why you cant machine the block deck with it fully assembled (or still in the car). if someone offers to lap your block while it is still in the car, chances are they are not gonna do a very good job and you will end up with a poor sealing surface for your MHG, which will ultimately lead you to another blown head gasket shortly after reassembly.
2) $800 would be cheap, in my opinion, for a proper job of resurfacing the head and the block. for a shitty job, i'm sure that is an ok deal. i removed the head from my vehicle myself and took it to the machine shop. he checked my head for warping, confirmed hardness, did a full 3-angle valve job, and milled the mating surface to an RA of 12 for $450 bucks. He wanted another $350 for the valve adjustment, which is necessary after a valve job that changes the length of the valve train (like if you have your valve seats ground or your valve stems shortened/lengthened/replaced, etc). i noticed you mentioned the $800 was just for "machining the head and block". that sounds kinda scary. you should find out exactly what work they would be performing and how they would do it, i.e. will they disassemble and clean the head/block before machining, and then reassemble checking clearances and tolerances and using new seals/equipment where necessary.
3) typically, a 7m rebuild and a 2jz swap should not be in the same ballpark, cost-wise. whoever told you that was, in my opinion, full of shit. a 2jz front clip alone costs $2000. that is before all the labor to customize all kinds of shit in the mk3 chassis to fit the 2jz motor. and it doesn't include various additional parts you will need to make the swap happen.
a good 7m head gasket job, where the owner outsources ALL the labor and part purchases, should cost $3000 or less. and $3000 is a high figure. I called a local mechanic with a good reputation and requested a quote to repair my blown head gasket, and he said he could do it for about $1800 (this was a rebuild to toyota OEM specs, and included R&R for the valve train).
4) you should consider going with a toyota OEM gasket. sounds like you are trying to field a viable daily driver. MHG and the cost associated with it is more for people who want to build up their motors with lots of aftermarket parts and aim for high horsepower goals. these type of cars are not typically used in a daily driver function. with an OEM gasket, you only need to machine the head's mating surface, so long as the block deck is straight and isnt horribly scarred/pitted.
1) properly machining the head and block for a MHG is a big job, not because of the head but because of the block. to do it properly, the block should be removed from the car, disassembled, cleaned, and tested for cracks (same with the head, technically, but the head is easier to get off the car and disassemble/reassemble than the block). then the machinist can mill the deck of the block and get it properly smooth and flat for a MHG (i would shoot for an RA of 25 or less (RA = roughness average, and if the machine shop operator looks at you like "wtf is an RA" when you ask for it, you need to find another machine shop)). the block should then be cleaned again because bits and pieces of metal will inevitably get into places that will later cause engine failure if they are not properly cleaned out. this is why you cant machine the block deck with it fully assembled (or still in the car). if someone offers to lap your block while it is still in the car, chances are they are not gonna do a very good job and you will end up with a poor sealing surface for your MHG, which will ultimately lead you to another blown head gasket shortly after reassembly.
2) $800 would be cheap, in my opinion, for a proper job of resurfacing the head and the block. for a shitty job, i'm sure that is an ok deal.
i removed the head from my vehicle myself and took it to the machine shop. he checked my head for warping, confirmed hardness, did a full 3-angle valve job, and milled the mating surface to an RA of 12 for $450 bucks. He wanted another $350 for the valve adjustment, which is necessary after a valve job that changes the length of the valve train (like if you have your valve seats ground or your valve stems shortened/lengthened/replaced, etc). i noticed you mentioned the $800 was just for "machining the head and block". that sounds kinda scary. you should find out exactly what work they would be performing and how they would do it, i.e. will they disassemble and clean the head/block before machining, and then reassemble checking clearances and tolerances and using new seals/equipment where necessary.3) typically, a 7m rebuild and a 2jz swap should not be in the same ballpark, cost-wise. whoever told you that was, in my opinion, full of shit. a 2jz front clip alone costs $2000. that is before all the labor to customize all kinds of shit in the mk3 chassis to fit the 2jz motor. and it doesn't include various additional parts you will need to make the swap happen.
a good 7m head gasket job, where the owner outsources ALL the labor and part purchases, should cost $3000 or less. and $3000 is a high figure. I called a local mechanic with a good reputation and requested a quote to repair my blown head gasket, and he said he could do it for about $1800 (this was a rebuild to toyota OEM specs, and included R&R for the valve train).
4) you should consider going with a toyota OEM gasket. sounds like you are trying to field a viable daily driver. MHG and the cost associated with it is more for people who want to build up their motors with lots of aftermarket parts and aim for high horsepower goals. these type of cars are not typically used in a daily driver function. with an OEM gasket, you only need to machine the head's mating surface, so long as the block deck is straight and isnt horribly scarred/pitted.
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Well so far I know of 2 shops and they each have countless years of experience on the mk3. Shop option 1 goes by the name Mos garage, which used to be known as car aid and before that I believe jasper motorsports. Located in Santa Ana. Shop option 2 is kaizen motorsports. They suggested the rebuild or engine swap and have worked on many many supras. That one I believe is located in Anaheim. I would give you the full location but I am using my phone right now. Have you heard of these shops?
Thanks Cyrus. As I mentioned they quoted me $800 and are known to do a very good job Also I might of stated it wrong. Yes I want my car back up and running but believe me it'll be used for more than just daily use, which is why im leaning toward an engine rebuild. I do plan on upgrading her. that's for sure.
Cyrus;1847049 said:hmm sooo you are getting some interesting info, or relaying it poorly.
1) properly machining the head and block for a MHG is a big job, not because of the head but because of the block. to do it properly, the block should be removed from the car, disassembled, cleaned, and tested for cracks (same with the head, technically, but the head is easier to get off the car and disassemble/reassemble than the block). then the machinist can mill the deck of the block and get it properly smooth and flat for a MHG (i would shoot for an RA of 25 or less (RA = roughness average, and if the machine shop operator looks at you like "wtf is an RA" when you ask for it, you need to find another machine shop)). the block should then be cleaned again because bits and pieces of metal will inevitably get into places that will later cause engine failure if they are not properly cleaned out. this is why you cant machine the block deck with it fully assembled (or still in the car). if someone offers to lap your block while it is still in the car, chances are they are not gonna do a very good job and you will end up with a poor sealing surface for your MHG, which will ultimately lead you to another blown head gasket shortly after reassembly.
2) $800 would be cheap, in my opinion, for a proper job of resurfacing the head and the block. for a shitty job, i'm sure that is an ok deal.
3) typically, a 7m rebuild and a 2jz swap should not be in the same ballpark, cost-wise. whoever told you that was, in my opinion, full of shit.
4) you should consider going with a toyota OEM gasket. sounds like you are trying to field a viable daily driver. MHG and the cost associated with it is more for people who want to build up their motors with lots of aftermarket parts. these type of cars are not typically used in a daily driver function. with an OEM gasket, you only need to machine the head's mating surface, so long as the block deck is straight and isnt horribly scarred/pitted.
he has good info. thats why i stated tha you should rebuil it while your at it since your gonna have to get the head and block decked.
i know of kaisen only.. wher in LA are you located?
my buddy has a shop near LA but idk if your closer in anaheim and stuff.
I'm around the Azusa/Covina part of the county. Honestly about 15 min away from downtown. Kaisen as well as the other would be a bit of a trip for me. Where ever I take her I plan on using a tow truck. My friend suggested I drive there (the car still running). Though i am not trying to make matters worse.
at 144k and the endless threads of rod knock and BHG
might as well rebuild it now since youll have it all apart for decking and machine work
might as well rebuild it now since youll have it all apart for decking and machine work
no!!!! no driving!! exactly. dont want get rod knock and futher damage the motor.
ahh ok i see in in downey not that far but my buddies shop is by the 105 and the 405 its about the same distance. it be cheaoer if you pull the engine out your self and just let them tear it apart.
ahh ok i see in in downey not that far but my buddies shop is by the 105 and the 405 its about the same distance. it be cheaoer if you pull the engine out your self and just let them tear it apart.
no!!!! no driving!! exactly. dont want get rod knock and futher damage the motor.
ahh ok i see in in downey not that far but my buddies shop is by the 105 and the 405 its about the same distance. it be cheaoer if you pull the engine out your self and just let them tear it apart.
ahh ok i see in in downey not that far but my buddies shop is by the 105 and the 405 its about the same distance. it be cheaoer if you pull the engine out your self and just let them tear it apart.
Looks like im going to rebuild the engine. Any suggested brands, parts, or list of what exactly I would need? I'm shooting for the best of the best quality. Ps. I I think my phone isn't letting me reply to the post or something so if this question already went through I apologize.
My opinion... if you have a goal for some high HP and have lots of money, go 2JZ. If you don't plan to go crazy, rebuild it while the engine is out for the machining. You will end up wanting to do it later anyways, so do it once and be happy.
If leaving it stock it somewhat stock just change the hg your self with a stock hg.
Using a mhg will require a rebuild so... But shouldn't need new pistons.
Using a mhg will require a rebuild so... But shouldn't need new pistons.
If leaving it stock it somewhat stock just change the hg your self with a stock hg.
Using a mhg will require a rebuild so... But shouldn't need new pistons.
Using a mhg will require a rebuild so... But shouldn't need new pistons.
Cyrus;1847049 said:hmm sooo you are getting some interesting info, or relaying it poorly.
1) properly machining the head and block for a MHG is a big job, not because of the head but because of the block. to do it properly, the block should be removed from the car, disassembled, cleaned, and tested for cracks (same with the head, technically, but the head is easier to get off the car and disassemble/reassemble than the block). then the machinist can mill the deck of the block and get it properly smooth and flat for a MHG (i would shoot for an RA of 25 or less (RA = roughness average, and if the machine shop operator looks at you like "wtf is an RA" when you ask for it, you need to find another machine shop)). the block should then be cleaned again because bits and pieces of metal will inevitably get into places that will later cause engine failure if they are not properly cleaned out. this is why you cant machine the block deck with it fully assembled (or still in the car). if someone offers to lap your block while it is still in the car, chances are they are not gonna do a very good job and you will end up with a poor sealing surface for your MHG, which will ultimately lead you to another blown head gasket shortly after reassembly.
2) $800 would be cheap, in my opinion, for a proper job of resurfacing the head and the block. for a shitty job, i'm sure that is an ok deal.
3) typically, a 7m rebuild and a 2jz swap should not be in the same ballpark, cost-wise. whoever told you that was, in my opinion, full of shit. a 2jz front clip alone costs $2000. that is before all the labor to customize all kinds of shit in the mk3 chassis to fit the 2jz motor. and it doesn't include various additional parts you will need to make the swap happen.
a good 7m head gasket job, where the owner outsources ALL the labor and part purchases, should cost $3000 or less. and $3000 is a high figure. I called a local mechanic with a good reputation and requested a quote to repair my blown head gasket, and he said he could do it for about $1800 (this was a rebuild to toyota OEM specs, and included R&R for the valve train).
4) you should consider going with a toyota OEM gasket. sounds like you are trying to field a viable daily driver. MHG and the cost associated with it is more for people who want to build up their motors with lots of aftermarket parts and aim for high horsepower goals. these type of cars are not typically used in a daily driver function. with an OEM gasket, you only need to machine the head's mating surface, so long as the block deck is straight and isnt horribly scarred/pitted.
He has my vote. When I did mine, it cost me $1400 and that was with a HKS gasket and ARP head bolts. Not to mention I rebuilt the motor.