Automatic or Manual?

TheAmazingDave

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<3 my automagic. It has decent control with the overdrive lockout button and ECT shift programs, not to mention you can drop it down into second about anytime (thanks to huge ratios) floor it and be gone like a bat out of hell.

Speaking of tall ratios, and actually having the power to push them, it's quite a feeling winding 3rd gear up to 120 MPH.
 

--Wolf--

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TheAmazingDave;1407347 said:
<3 my automagic. It has decent control with the overdrive lockout button and ECT shift programs, not to mention you can drop it down into second about anytime (thanks to huge ratios) floor it and be gone like a bat out of hell.

Speaking of tall ratios, and actually having the power to push them, it's quite a feeling winding 3rd gear up to 120 MPH.

Just a quick question regarding that. My A340e was rebuilt with v8 lexus internals (prolly irrelevant)(no other mods to it) but is it okay to drop it down to 2nd when coming to a quick stop (ie like engine braking in a manual) or will it ruin the tranny? And visa versa, using L and 2 for acceleration then chucking it into D. Always been a manual man myself (first auto)

And am I the only one with the manual/power buttons for it? Haven't seen them mentioned in here yet. It can be driven as a manual apparently, (car at the shop atm haven't been able to try it yet) just push the stick through the gears (L = 1st, 2 = 2nd, D = 3rd) and they won't shift out of them by themself (D mainly)
 

Boost Lee

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hvyman;1406615 said:
what do you prefer? manuals are faster and more fun. autos you have to build if anything over 300hp.

Bah humbug.

I'd love to see your stock R154'd MKIII run a 13.76 @ 105MPH on street tires.

Jeff
 

Boost Lee

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nosechunks;1407479 said:
Id love to see your stock mk3 auto run that on street tires.....haha

Alright, a 3 inch exhaust and 10PSI,
but id hardly consider that BPU. ;)


Sent using a Windows Mobile Device.
 

TheAmazingDave

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--Wolf--;1407359 said:
Just a quick question regarding that. My A340e was rebuilt with v8 lexus internals (prolly irrelevant)(no other mods to it) but is it okay to drop it down to 2nd when coming to a quick stop (ie like engine braking in a manual) or will it ruin the tranny? And visa versa, using L and 2 for acceleration then chucking it into D. Always been a manual man myself (first auto)

And am I the only one with the manual/power buttons for it? Haven't seen them mentioned in here yet. It can be driven as a manual apparently, (car at the shop atm haven't been able to try it yet) just push the stick through the gears (L = 1st, 2 = 2nd, D = 3rd) and they won't shift out of them by themself (D mainly)

Downshifting into second manually shouldn't hurt anything unless you're so high into 3rd that you rev into the red when you downshift.

I think the button you're talking about is the ECT button which has Normal mode and Power mode. It doesn't have anything to do with shifting like a manual. The automatic is electronically controlled (ECT = Electronically Controlled Transmission) and that selector button changes the shift program for the transmission. In normal mode, the transmission will shift in lower revs to keep fuel consumption down, and will lock the torque converter often for economy. Turning on power mode will raise the standard shift points to keep you in or around peak torque, will drop you into a lower gear depending on circumstances, and will unlock the torque converter for better response.
 

ma71supraturbo

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High end exotics rarely offer automatic transmissions. Most offer computer controlled/shifted manual transmissions (SMG). These do not have a torque converter, and they really are a manual transmission whose shift/clutch mechanisms are automatically controlled. They are not what I'd consider an automatic, and using this definition you never see automatic cars road racing competitively.



The stock mk3 automatic does have 4 gear ranges:

L = 1st
2 = 1st OR 2nd
D (O/D off) = 1st, 2nd, OR 3rd
D (O/D on) = 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OR 4th

But this is nothing at all like a manual transmission since they do not lock the transmission in that gear -- only that gear OR the lower gears. Enter a 25mph corner in "2" and roll into WOT on corner exit -- depending on the precise speed you were going when you went WOT you may or may not have the automatic drop down into 1st. I probably drove more miles agressively on backrounds from 2002-2003 with an automatic mk3 than most people will in their lifetime and I was just as frustrated at the end of that time as I was in the beginning. This unexpected downshift caused me to spin at least 5 times, and caused unexpected overtsteer countless times. This was aggravated by the fact that while you may be able to control the oversteer with throttle modulation -- you'd often find the automatic again upshifting into "2" at a time when you absolutely NEEDED to be applying power to maintain control.

At that time, the suprastick was out but hadn't had any non biased feedback and I swapped to a R154 and never looked back.


The suprastick would allow you to drive in manual mode (stay in "2") and it would also allow you to set points for the TC to lock (which would help tremendously with throttle response). Still, it is not a SMG, and it carries the following penalties:

A) cost (I seem to recall it was $400-$500 6 years ago -- which was about what I payed for a complete running R154 parts car)
B) weight (its still using the heavier automatic transmission)
C) power loss (while you can choose when to lock-up the torque converter, its still not going to be as efficient as a manual)
D) gear ratios: 4 forward gears cover the same speed range (actually slightly larger) than the manual's 5 speeds
E) shift engagement: while you can adjust the settings for smoother/firmer shifts, you won't have anywhere near the same range of shift smoothness that your left foot offers for the various conditions


Thus, for those who get their enjoyment primarily from trackdays and twisties, the manual transmission IS the better choice. An upgraded + suprasticked automatic may come close, but it is not better.

Additionally, I'd submit that for those with what I consider highway king cars (street driven monster HP), I'd also give the manual the nod. You're not going to be able to upgrade a Toyota automatic enough to reliably hold 800rwhp. And a GM-automatic (built to hold that much power) is less pleasant to drive on the street than a manual.


Most MK3 owners don't fit into either of those two categories, so for them, an automatic may very well be the better choice. But automatics are certainly not for everyone...
 

ma71supraturbo

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TheAmazingDave;1407631 said:
Downshifting into second manually shouldn't hurt anything unless you're so high into 3rd that you rev into the red when you downshift.

The automatic wont let you downshift if you were going to overrev. In fact, it won't let you downshift if you'd be over ~5800rpm in the new gear (this is from 6-year old memory).
 

TurboStreetCar

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Feb 25, 2006
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ma71supraturbo;1407681 said:
High end exotics rarely offer automatic transmissions. Most offer computer controlled/shifted manual transmissions (SMG). These do not have a torque converter, and they really are a manual transmission whose shift/clutch mechanisms are automatically controlled. They are not what I'd consider an automatic, and using this definition you never see automatic cars road racing competitively.

So an automatically shifted Manual is still considered a manual transmission even though it shifts Automatically? Then if i install a supra stick and only drive it in manual mode i have a manual transmission.

ma71supraturbo;1407681 said:
The stock mk3 automatic does have 4 gear ranges:

L = 1st
2 = 1st OR 2nd
D (O/D off) = 1st, 2nd, OR 3rd
D (O/D on) = 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OR 4th

But this is nothing at all like a manual transmission since they do not lock the transmission in that gear -- only that gear OR the lower gears. Enter a 25mph corner in "2" and roll into WOT on corner exit -- depending on the precise speed you were going when you went WOT you may or may not have the automatic drop down into 1st. I probably drove more miles agressively on backrounds from 2002-2003 with an automatic mk3 than most people will in their lifetime and I was just as frustrated at the end of that time as I was in the beginning. This unexpected downshift caused me to spin at least 5 times, and caused unexpected overtsteer countless times. This was aggravated by the fact that while you may be able to control the oversteer with throttle modulation -- you'd often find the automatic again upshifting into "2" at a time when you absolutely NEEDED to be applying power to maintain control.

So an automatically controlled manual transmission wouldn't exhibit identical behavior if left to decide what gear to use without user input?

ma71supraturbo;1407681 said:
At that time, the suprastick was out but hadn't had any non biased feedback and I swapped to a R154 and never looked back.

The suprastick would allow you to drive in manual mode (stay in "2") and it would also allow you to set points for the TC to lock (which would help tremendously with throttle response). Still, it is not a SMG, and it carries the following penalties:

A) cost (I seem to recall it was $400-$500 6 years ago -- which was about what I payed for a complete running R154 parts car)
B) weight (its still using the heavier automatic transmission)
C) power loss (while you can choose when to lock-up the torque converter, its still not going to be as efficient as a manual)
D) gear ratios: 4 forward gears cover the same speed range (actually slightly larger) than the manual's 5 speeds
E) shift engagement: while you can adjust the settings for smoother/firmer shifts, you won't have anywhere near the same range of shift smoothness that your left foot offers for the various conditions

A) A complete running r154 car with a stock clutch would not hold much more power then a factory automatic for very long, factor in a clutch and possible tranny rebuild, Be realistic. SSv4 is currently $350, And since when is cost a factor for a "Racecar" as your describing.
B) True though 100lbs is NOT going to make or break your RACECAR, and if it is you picked the wrong car to begin with.
C) Sure an Automatic Eats up a little power But doesn't loose it between shifts and can build boost at the start line and provide a "cushion" on the rear tires for better launch.
D) Negligible
E) This is what a Line pressure cable is for, I have steel dowels replacing the springs in my accumulators and with the stock converter it was hardly uncomfortable, with a higher stall converter that i will be installing i think smooth will be the only way to describe it, and What does this have to do with a "racecar" again?

ma71supraturbo;1407681 said:
Thus, for those who get their enjoyment primarily from trackdays and twisties, the manual transmission IS the better choice. An upgraded + suprasticked automatic may come close, but it is not better.

Entirely Opinion with no evidence other then because i said so to back it up. Equal cars, Auto vs manual, properly set up will not result in equal track times, straight or turns. Theres a reason the professionals leave it up to computers to do the shifting. This is a fact.

ma71supraturbo;1407681 said:
Additionally, I'd submit that for those with what I consider highway king cars (street driven monster HP), I'd also give the manual the nod. You're not going to be able to upgrade a Toyota automatic enough to reliably hold 800rwhp. And a GM-automatic (built to hold that much power) is less pleasant to drive on the street than a manual.


Most MK3 owners don't fit into either of those two categories, so for them, an automatic may very well be the better choice. But automatics are certainly not for everyone...

That first paragraph is IMO the reason "sports cars" don't have conventional automatic transmissions. Imagine building a 500BHP sports car to sell to someone and having to warranty a conventional automatic transmission for 30-100 thousand miles of abuse. Manual transmissions are more durable in this field.

Of course autos aren't for everyone, Some people enjoy the feel of a manual transmission. Both have pros and cons.

But your argument that race cars use automatically controlled manual transmissions therefore are superior to conventional Automatic transmissions is ridiculous. The Real argument you are making is about control. Your opinion is that you cannot control a conventional automatic transmission in a fashion that will achieve desired results. 50 years ago i would agree, this is almost 2010, technology is there.

All i have to say is theres a reason professionals leave it to computers, If manually shifted manual transmissions had an advantage over automatic transmissions it would be known and in use.

Not starting a war, as this will never end based on opinion so if your going to discuss, discuss facts.
 

ma71supraturbo

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nosechunks;1407705 said:
So an automatically shifted Manual is still considered a manual transmission even though it shifts Automatically? Then if i install a supra stick and only drive it in manual mode i have a manual transmission.

No, and no. An automatically shifted manual is what BMW calls a sequential-manual gearbox (SMG), Toyota calls sequential manual transmission (SMT), Lamborghini/VW calls E-gear, and Ferrari calls F1-somethingorother. It has a clutch, and is completely different from a manumatic (which is a manually shifted, torque-converter equipped automatic like a suprastick or a Porsche tiptronic).

Porsche only uses the tiptronic because so many middle aged non-enthusiasts buy their cars as status symbols. But good luck buying a tiptronic GT2, GT3, or Carrera GT (hint: Porsche doesn't sell them)...


The systems used in F1 are SMG/SMT/E-gear-esq. They are not manual transmissions, nor are they automatics, nor are they manumatics. They are something else entirely.


So an automatically controlled manual transmission wouldn't exhibit identical behavior if left to decide what gear to use without user input?
I described a whole host of behaviours, so I'm not sure to which one you're referring. I will say that a manumatic may come close to offering the same control that a manual does, but it still falls short due to the 5 reasons I listed earlier.

A) A complete running r154 car with a stock clutch would not hold much more power then a factory automatic for very long, factor in a clutch and possible tranny rebuild, Be realistic. SSv4 is currently $350, And since when is cost a factor for a "Racecar" as your describing.
In my case, I used the running R154 car for parts for the 5spd swap since my car was already equipped with an automatic (I couldn't find a suitable hardtop 5spd at the time and had to settle). But even spending $1200 on a clutch and R154 rebuild is far less than rebuilding an automatic with upgraded valve bodies, quality trans coolers, etc.

I am also not describing a "racecar." Believe it or not, people do enjoy driving street cars around turns. I realize that many parts of the country (and world) are relatively flat and don't really have nice windy roads to play on. But on a typical Sunday drive, I can go from sea level to 8500' and back -- and these type of roads typically come with everything from hairpin curves marked 15mph and gaining 20' in elevation to long 80-100+mph sweepers.


B) True though 100lbs is NOT going to make or break your RACECAR, and if it is you picked the wrong car to begin with.
100lbs (which is probably on the high side actually) is roughly 3% of the weight of a stock mk3. If its effect was only on standing start acceleration, then you might have a point. But it detracts from handling and braking as well -- and also leads to more stress on components (tires/brakes/drivetrain). As such even if a manumatic was as good at everything else (which its not) it still wouldn't be as good as a manual for this purpose.

As for picking the wrong car, I've given quite a bit of thought to the subject and I've driven a ton of other options in the 4 years I've been without a MK3. For my purposes (a street driven car with all the amenities that can hold its own against anything on a typical HPDE track day), the MK3 is hard to beat -- even with its weight penalty. No other RWD car easily capable of Z06-performance for under $10,000 has suspension as good as the mk3. Not mr2s, fieros, corollas, 240's, rx7's, 300z's, mustangs, camaro's, C4/base C5 corvettes, etc. Many of those cars handle as good or better than the mk3 on slow autocross style courses due to their weight & weight distribution -- but their cheaper suspension designs are often unsettled by the bumps frequently encountered on real roads and aren't capable of the same grip at high speeds. So no, I don't think I've picked the wrong car. And the fact that it is heavy doesn't mean that its OK to just keep adding weight to it.

C) Sure an Automatic Eats up a little power But doesn't loose it between shifts and can build boost at the start line and provide a "cushion" on the rear tires for better launch.
Yes, because I stop and do drag-race launches all the time on backroads :sarcasm: I think I was quite clear that my points were directed toward twisties/track days and that other people with different needs will not feel the same way.

D) Negligible
I guess I should just install an old 3spd manual, right? Not only does an automatic put less power to the ground, it also is more likely to be farther from peak power.

E) This is what a Line pressure cable is for, I have steel dowels replacing the springs in my accumulators and with the stock converter it was hardly uncomfortable, with a higher stall converter that i will be installing i think smooth will be the only way to describe it, and What does this have to do with a "racecar" again?

As I already stated, you can adjust the shift engagement of an automatic. You might even be able to use multiple shift modes (like Toyota's "NML/PWR" buttons). But you do not have the same range of engagement offered by a manual transmission (where the only thing controlling how firm or smooth your shift are your two feet).

Why is this important in a car driven aggressively in the twisties or on track? Take a well-balanced car and drive it at the limit around a increasing-radius sweeper. When you need to shift mid-turn, you need the shift to be smooth, fast, and predictable. You can easily do this with a manual with little thought. With 99.9% of manumatics and SMGs, you'll never get it just right and as such, you either slow down slightly (to avoid upsetting the car during the shift), or you upset the car during the shift (which slows you slightly anyway).

The same is true for downshifting while braking into a turn...

With a SMG transmission, this slight time loss is more than made up for by the millisecond shifts made throughout the rest of the track. A manumatic does not shift much faster (if at all) than a manual (in addition to lugging around all that extra weight & putting down less power to the wheels). And if you set it up to shift smoothly for that Turn 10 sweeper, then you'll probably be shifting slower than needed the rest of the time...

And sometimes, I do want a harsh shift. Sometimes I enter a corner too hot, or hit an unexpected puddle and start to understeer. A nice harsh shift here will bring the back end about and allow me to adjust the angle of attack with steering and throttle.


Entirely Opinion with no evidence other then because i said so to back it up. Equal cars, Auto vs manual, properly set up will not result in equal track times, straight or turns. Theres a reason the professionals leave it up to computers to do the shifting. This is a fact.
It is widely regarded as truth that a manual transmission is better for road course than an automatic (again, not talking about a SMG). Since you are asserting the opposite, I submit that the burden of proof lies with you. Please show me where people are using torque converter equipped cars in a competitive road racing environment.


Of course autos aren't for everyone, Some people enjoy the feel of a manual transmission. Both have pros and cons.
This I agree with entirely. I just take offense to the notion that a properly built automatic is superior in every way to a manual. Both transmissions make compromises, which compromises matter most to you will determine which transmission you prefer.

But your argument that race cars use automatically controlled manual transmissions therefore are superior to conventional Automatic transmissions is ridiculous.
It isn't. SMGs shift much faster than automatics, manumatics, or manuals, weigh only a few pounds more than a manual, are just as efficient as manual transmission, etc.

The Real argument you are making is about control. Your opinion is that you cannot control a conventional automatic transmission in a fashion that will achieve desired results. 50 years ago i would agree, this is almost 2010, technology is there.
So far, the technology isn't there. Porsche's tiptronic is the pinacle of manumatic performance -- and it still comes up short. I won't say that we'll never get there, but we certainly aren't there yet -- and aren't likely going to ever be there retrofitting controllers to A340e. A suprastick is still better than a normal automatic, but it doesn't offer the same level of control that a manual does and carries the weight/efficiency penalties... I also suspect that it has just as much delay between shifting as the stock automatic's computer (someone with a suprastick correct me if I'm wrong). With a manual, when I want to shift, I shift. When I had the automatic, if I wanted to shift from L to 2, I'd have to move into 2 at 4000rpm in 1st otherwise I'd bounce the rev limiter before the automatic upshifted...



I'll also add a 6th reason: An automatic is going to need a transmission cooler to survive under the above uses. This is going to take away space & available cooling capacity from the other heat exchangers.





So again, I'm not saying manuals are for everyone. And for most people's desired use of the MK3, an automatic probably fits quite well. But they aren't better at everything and for me, as long as I'm driving roads like this:
hwy3-4a.jpg




I wouldn't want one even if I used Bill Gate's bank account to upgrade it...
 
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--Wolf--

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TheAmazingDave;1407631 said:
Downshifting into second manually shouldn't hurt anything unless you're so high into 3rd that you rev into the red when you downshift.

I think the button you're talking about is the ECT button which has Normal mode and Power mode. It doesn't have anything to do with shifting like a manual. The automatic is electronically controlled (ECT = Electronically Controlled Transmission) and that selector button changes the shift program for the transmission. In normal mode, the transmission will shift in lower revs to keep fuel consumption down, and will lock the torque converter often for economy. Turning on power mode will raise the standard shift points to keep you in or around peak torque, will drop you into a lower gear depending on circumstances, and will unlock the torque converter for better response.

Yes I think it does say ECT somewhere around it. But can you explain the manual button? I think it's MANU on the button. It certainly doesn't have a "normal" button anywhere near it.

And quick nooby question, whats locking up the torque converter do?
 

ma71supraturbo

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TheAmazingDave;1407631 said:
Turning on power mode will raise the standard shift points to keep you in or around peak torque, will drop you into a lower gear depending on circumstances, and will unlock the torque converter for better response.

Power mode doesn't unlock the torque converter... And power mode only works when you are in "D"

AT_040.gif


--Wolf--;1407763 said:
And quick nooby question, whats locking up the torque converter do?
Locking up the torque converter basically means that the engine and transmission are spinning at the same speed. A torque converter is a fluid coupling device. When the engine is slowly spinning (like at idle) it doesn't transfer much power from the engine to the transmission as there isn't much pressure inside the torque converter. When the engine is spinning faster, the fluid pressure builds up in the torque converter and it begins to transfer more torque to the transmission. The transmission then begins to speed up close to the speed of the engine. But it never will be the same speed of the engine, and there will be energy losses because of this. That's why we have lock-up converters -- and from the factory it works only:

* when the transmission is in "D"
* when the brakes are off
* when throttle is >0&#37;
* coolant temp is >95 degrees F & speed is >25mph

There is no lock-up when the transmission is in the "2" or "L" ranges. However, as long as the transmission is in the "D" range, there is lock-up for 2nd gear as long as throttle >35%

More info:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=8
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/towing/towing-capacity/information/torque-converter.htm
 
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TheAmazingDave

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ma71supraturbo;1407686 said:
The automatic wont let you downshift if you were going to overrev. In fact, it won't let you downshift if you'd be over ~5800rpm in the new gear (this is from 6-year old memory).

No, that's actually about right, although I've never tested that in a Supra... :biglaugh:

ma71supraturbo;1407827 said:
Power mode doesn't unlock the torque converter...

Not entirely correct. If Power mode is activated in a rev range where the torque converter would not be locked for that program, it will unlock. This usually happens at speeds under 40-50.

The auto will also downshift easier when throttle is applied in Power mode.
 

TurboStreetCar

Formerly Nosechunks
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ma71supraturbo;1407745 said:
No, and no. An automatically shifted manual...............dn't want one even if I used Bill Gate's bank account to upgrade it...

Again, your entire argument is control. I understand the difference between an automatically shifted manual and a conventional automatic with a torque converter.

I have nothing to prove, top race teams around the world use an automatically shifted transmission, paddle shifters that use a computer to shift the transmission via electronics is an automatic transmission no matter what acronym you apply to it.

You happen to like a manually shifted manual transmission, theres nothing wrong with this but it is not in fact superior to an automatic transmission other then possible cost, witch has no bearing on whats "better", and weight witch as you said 100 pounds is an over estimate. 100lbs would barely be noticeable.

Your car wouldn't go around a track or home streets any faster with an manual then it would with a properly set up automatic, regardless of what you "Think".