'89 Turbo Supra build

Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Oh yeah, forgot I was able to see this a few days ago! It was the first time this car has seen power in a decade probably. I still had a few things left to finish so didn't try to start it. Turned it on, made sure nothing started smoking or caught fire then turned it back off! Lol

fdb1a45bfa4f9c8520fb716a8990b2bb.jpg



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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Well, got the exhaust installed today but wasn't able to start it. This is the way the whole project has been... Two steps forward and one step back. Or in some cases, one step forward and three steps back!

Looks like I have two problems to track down. The starter won't turn over. This is most likely a ground issue (I know there are still some connections that aren't properly grounded) or blown fuses. Then after that happened I smelled gas. Looks like the #4 or #5 injector is leaking so I get to pull off the upper intake, throttle body, etc to look into that issue now!

On a positive note, the Tanabe exhaust looks awesome! It's one of the only parts of the car that actually looks good [emoji2]


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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All fuses are good. Grounds have been correctly installed and it still won't crank. After doing some research it seems like it's a fairly common problem. I read the 15-page thread about the relay bypass mod vs. doing it the "right" way. I'm going to try and track down the actual problem before I add more wiring and another relay into the equation. Still haven't fixed the injector leak but I have all the parts to do it...


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Joe__G

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Pulled the fuel rail today to replace the grommets and o-rings on all the injectors. It turns out that the braided line going to the cold start injector was a little loose and that was the source of the leak! Oh well...

Also worked on the starting issue a little. I pulled the signal wire off the starter and it's getting about 10-10.5V when the key is turned over to "start". Plugged it back into the starter, tested it again at the back side of the connector and it was showing about 6V (while connected to the starter). It did randomly turn over a few times but now it won't do anything again. The starter relay definitely seems to be working. Tomorrow I'm going to make sure I'm getting 12V coming out of the relay and do a voltage drop test on the signal wire, I'm thinking that's the source of the problem...


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Assuming it is the signal wire that is my problem, has anybody actually repaired or replaced this before? I've seen lots of complaints about it and I've seen the relay bypass mod, which I'd really rather not do... If I need to replace it, I'm thinking I can just run a new wire from point A to point B and zip tie it to the OEM harness to keep it somewhat out of sight??


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Joe__G

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It's not the starter signal wire... It's looking like an issue with the ignition switch. Still working on it. [emoji53]


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Joe__G

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While waiting for the ignition switch to show up, I thought I'd run a wire directly to the starter to see if I could get it to start.

Well, no luck! With the key on I put 12V to the starter signal. It cranks but will not start...

- spark plugs aren't firing
- I have 12V at the coils
- I'm getting 12V on pin3 of the igniter connector
- plugs and wires are new
- CPS is new
- Tach is NOT moving when cranking

When I was researching the issue online I see lots of people asking if the tach is moving. Mine is not but the CPS is new. Not sure what that could mean... any suggestions?


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Well, that was a stupid error on my part. Left the EFI fuse out when I was messing with the starter issue. Plugged it back in and it started! I'm glad something good happened, I was ready to set the thing on fire and be done with it. Lol


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supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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Congrats, man!

As for the starter issue, the relay mod is basically putting in a relay, where the oem system is already using a relay,
so I'm not a fan of the 'mod'. The starter relay is in the passenger kickpanel. If you're getting voltage to the signal wire, then the oem relay isn't the problem.
It's transferring the power as its supposed to. Its either that your battery isn't fully charged(I doubt you overlooked this), or the full voltage isn't getting to the relay in the first place.
 

Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Thanks! Yeah I'm not a fan of the idea either. The signal wire is getting voltage from the relay. We sent 12V from there and had no drop at the signal wire so I'm thinking it's in the ignition switch. I have a new one here, just need to install it. In the meantime I just hooked up a wire directly to the starter signal to be able to start the car temporarily while finishing some other stuff. After finding out there was a heater hose missing and fixing a couple small coolant leaks I was able to start it and let it run for a minute.

Now I have a few other issues... gauges aren't working and I have a misfire. The lights in the gauge cluster turn on but the actual gauges aren't working. I've checked fuses and they're ok. I'm assuming the harness is plugged in since the lights are working, right? Or is there more than one connector on the back of the gauges? I don't want to run the engine for very long without having a functioning temp gauge!

Not sure about the misfire yet either, I'll need to look into it some more. Plugs and wires are all new. CPS is new but I still need to adjust timing I think.


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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So looking at the repair manual, it looks like there are 5 connectors on the back of the gauge cluster. Is that right?!? Seems like a lot... if that's the case it could explain why the warning lights are all working properly but gauges are inop...


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Ok guys I'm a bit frustrated and any suggestions would be appreciated. I've tested everything in the starting circuit and can't find the issue. I'm going to cut the starter connector off tomorrow and replace it with a spade connector because it's the only possible thing I can think of at this point that could be the problem.

I also pulled the gauge cluster today to take a look at the back of it. It looks practically brand new. Some light rust on a couple screws but nothing serious. All the connectors were attached properly and it looked like it's probably never been touched before. All of the warning lights turn on but the gauges don't work. Fuses are all good. Any ideas of what could be the problem? Seems like I might've missed connecting a ground somewhere but I've gone back over it a dozen times now and can't find anything I've missed....


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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supraguy@aol;2081948 said:
Congrats, man!

As for the starter issue, the relay mod is basically putting in a relay, where the oem system is already using a relay,
so I'm not a fan of the 'mod'. The starter relay is in the passenger kickpanel. If you're getting voltage to the signal wire, then the oem relay isn't the problem.
It's transferring the power as its supposed to. Its either that your battery isn't fully charged(I doubt you overlooked this), or the full voltage isn't getting to the relay in the first place.

Just to follow up on this... I thought the same thing, it has to be before the relay. Voltage is getting from the relay to the starter wire without any issue. The only thing before that in the circuit is the ignition switch. It was cheap so I ordered a replacement. Installed it today and still have the same issue. The battery is fully charged. It's brand new as of a couple weeks ago and it's been on a charger a couple times during all my testing...


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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A little more info regarding gauge functions... the boost gauge seems to work. When I turn the key to the "on" position the boost gauge jumps up to 0. All the other gauges don't move at all. I also checked the lighting and rheostat, all seem to be working properly. The only issue I see is that the other gauges don't work at all.


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Another update... I tested all the gauges (except tach) individually and they worked fine. temp gauge turned out to be a bad sender, replaced it and the temp gauge is now working! Then the oil pressure gauge magically started working on its own...

Fuel gauge seems to be due to a bad sender and/or corrosion at the sender connector. I opened up the access panel to the tank and found lots of rust. The wiring was stuck between the tank and the car, tried pulling it through the access panel to look at it and the brittle connector fell apart. Lots of rust and corrosion in there too. So I solved a couple problems but now I'm going to drop the tank and fix the wiring there. I'm going to upgrade the fuel pump and install an oem fuel filter while I'm there.

Does anyone know how to test the tach? I know the signal comes from the igniter but I'm not really sure how to check it?


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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Got a deal on a tank, sender and fuel pump bracket from a guy selling on eBay. I'm waiting for all of that to come in then I'll swap it out some time next week hopefully. Next problem to tackle after that is the tach not working and the misfire. I'm also getting some occasional blue smoke (burning oil) during idle and when revving up. I'm pretty sure that's probably from the turbo seals. There wasn't any play in the shaft before I put it on but it is the original turbo and looked rough on the outside. Luckily I have an upgrade that I got here on the forum a while back...


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Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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jugodegolf;2082658 said:
Looks like car is in good hands. I thought I knew all the local Toyota guys. I was in Biloxi for quite a while.

Thanks! I wouldn't consider Biloxi local to me though, I'm up north much closer to Memphis. I have only been a member here for a few years though and haven't been active much until this year.
 

Joe__G

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Dec 6, 2013
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The tank got replaced over the weekend. It was pretty disgusting... the filler pipe was rusted pretty badly and the bottom of the tank was full of rust too so I really don't know how this thing has been running at all! I poured about 5 gallons of gas into what I thought was an empty tank when I finished the engine install. It looks like dirty pond water in the old tank though.


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