89 7MGTE | time machine restoration, "build".Highly motivated with no time or energy

bandit1730

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May 19, 2012
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Miami FL 33181
Getting a full refund + prepaid return shipping label from Amazon on the Clutch after 6 months of purchase (What a great company to do business with). Thanks to Poodles for noticing the mismatch.
I've been buying parts for almost two years now and I would't be surprised if some of the other shelved items are a mismatch as well.

Once again, Thanks!!!

Now that the clutch subject came into play, is there a recommendation to match my setup with room for a CT-26 turbo upgrade? Also, I'm still nowhere in regards to fuel pump.
 

Backlash2032

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Sep 20, 2010
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That's a Metal head gasket. I wouldnt be too worried about the hg sealing with that deck surface. It looks smooth enough to me.

Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
 

bandit1730

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May 19, 2012
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Miami FL 33181
Backlash2032;1956574 said:
That's a Metal head gasket. I wouldnt be too worried about the hg sealing with that deck surface. It looks smooth enough to me.

Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

They are listing 4 different HG for the MKIII. 3 of them are described as "Metal HG". I guess I will have to call and find out.

(See product screenshot below)


Titan-Motorsports.PNG
 

Backlash2032

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supraguy@aol;1956581 said:
Look at pic #5, post 15.

That's about how mine looked. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the picture being taken from top down makes it look worse than it is.

And the titan motorsports headgaskets are metal. Hks gaskets on titan motorsports are also metal.

Sent from my HTC Droid DNA
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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Well, if you can run the edge of your fingernail over the surface and not hear/feel it, then id say you're ok.
 

JDMMA70

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Dec 4, 2006
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My deck surface looked similar and it sealed a stopper hg I think its just the lighting because mine was super smooth didn't catch a nail or anything.

p1956699_1.jpg
 

bandit1730

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May 19, 2012
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Ok... then what size HG should I get???

I had already purchased OEM HG bolts as per my plans on keeping it stock and as stated before, I "might" follow Supraguy@aol on 57 trim lex/550 as long as I don't have to use AFR management. Should I get the ARP studs?

Got a refund from Amazon for the clutch kit. Any suggestions as to which kit to buy (purely GT use intended)?

Should I shim the oil pump?

I want to start assembly ASAP. I'm on a roll right now!! Thanks for following and advice given.
 

GrimJack

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Personally, I'd get the RA (roughness average) measured by a machine shop. If they don't have the tool to measure it, I'd be seriously concerned they can make it smooth enough. I'd also do this because I'd be putting in a thick metal head gasket to make up for the material machined off. A composite will increase compression, which will give you more power out of boost, but it'll also be more sensitive to how much boost it'll take before self destructing. I like to stick with lots of safety margin.

For a DM 57 trim, I'd absolutely use the 550 / Lexus AFM upgrade if sticking with stock pistons. Not enough safety margin with the stock injectors, it's too easy to drop into knock, and knock will destroy stock pistons in an instant.

Either the Wally pump, or the new Aeromotive Stealth should work just fine. My personal favorite is the Aeromotive unit, because it has a slightly higher capacity, and there doesn't seem to be any fake chinese copies on the market. Yet. I'm running two of them myself. I seem to recall there is also a group buy right now run by Sumeet for a great pump - might be worth talking to him.

Lots of clutch choices out there that will hold your planned power levels. I've had good luck with Spec at that level.

Lastly, Titan metal head gaskets are simply Cometic units rebadged. HKS and Greddy are independent manufacturers. Any of them should hold anything a 57 trim can possibly put out. I've popped a Cometic MHG, however, it certainly wasn't with something as small as a 57 trim CT. IMO if you want the best, buy an HKS stopper, but keep in mind it has the toughest smoothness requirements to seal properly.
 

bandit1730

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May 19, 2012
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Miami FL 33181
Have to get a larger caliper. The one I have only goes as far as 154.5mm and therefore, I cannot measure up to the main bearing saddle, but according to my before and after measurement calculations, about 1mm was taken off the block.
Anyways, measured again on daylight since 116.95mm doesn't add up on the head according to the following thread:

IJ.;1328009 said:
Seen this question asked on many occasions, here's the HG's for dummies version ;)

1) Stock HG = 1.37mm compressed

2) Stock head = 116mm deck to valve cover surface

3) Stock block = 198.5mm from deck to main bearing saddle

If 2 and 3 are less that amount needs to be added to 1 to retain the stock compression ratio and squish/quench.

When resurfacing the Block be sure to take the Timing Case along to have it done at the same time or your new HG will fail in miles.

deck.jpg

Block measurement = 198.5mm/7.81"

115.56mm
CIMG0151.jpg

145.65mm
CIMG0153.JPG

Measurement method (need larger caliper)
CIMG0154.JPG

Therefore, according to the following post and if my measurement is correct, I will be needing 2.8mm (yikes!)


isnms;1471851 said:

Have to leave now, but will be back reply on GrimJak's post
 

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bandit1730

New Member
May 19, 2012
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Miami FL 33181
GrimJack;1956726 said:
Personally, I'd get the RA (roughness average) measured by a machine shop. If they don't have the tool to measure it, I'd be seriously concerned they can make it smooth enough. I'd also do this because I'd be putting in a thick metal head gasket to make up for the material machined off. A composite will increase compression, which will give you more power out of boost, but it'll also be more sensitive to how much boost it'll take before self destructing. I like to stick with lots of safety margin.

For a DM 57 trim, I'd absolutely use the 550 / Lexus AFM upgrade if sticking with stock pistons. Not enough safety margin with the stock injectors, it's too easy to drop into knock, and knock will destroy stock pistons in an instant.

Either the Wally pump, or the new Aeromotive Stealth should work just fine. My personal favorite is the Aeromotive unit, because it has a slightly higher capacity, and there doesn't seem to be any fake chinese copies on the market. Yet. I'm running two of them myself. I seem to recall there is also a group buy right now run by Sumeet for a great pump - might be worth talking to him.

Lots of clutch choices out there that will hold your planned power levels. I've had good luck with Spec at that level.

Lastly, Titan metal head gaskets are simply Cometic units rebadged. HKS and Greddy are independent manufacturers. Any of them should hold anything a 57 trim can possibly put out. I've popped a Cometic MHG, however, it certainly wasn't with something as small as a 57 trim CT. IMO if you want the best, buy an HKS stopper, but keep in mind it has the toughest smoothness requirements to seal properly.

  • Will see about having the surface RA checked. I just don't want to machine it any deeper than what already is. If I could find a composite that could work with current conditions, I will definitively jump on it as I wont be abusing/racing this car (thread title reads "time machine"). Another option is to wait until I pull the BGH GE engine from the other car and evaluate that GE block, but as mentioned before, the kid I bought it from had told me that this was his 2nd BGH on this engine therefore, I don't expect the block to be in great shape.

  • On the fuel pump, any upgrade that doesn't require tweaks/mods suitable for the 57trim/LEX/550

  • On the clutch... a street/GT clutch able to handle the 57trim/LEX/550cc will do
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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Atlanta
Resurfacing the head for smoothness would take off very little material.
Using composite will increase your compression ratio, and likely throw off your cam timing.
Walbro pump would be fine for those upgrades, and cheapest option. Just be aware that there are many fake walbros on Ebay.
Spec stage 1 or 2 clutch.
 

bandit1730

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May 19, 2012
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Miami FL 33181
supraguy@aol;1956828 said:
Resurfacing the head for smoothness would take off very little material.
Using composite will increase your compression ratio, and likely throw off your cam timing.
Walbro pump would be fine for those upgrades, and cheapest option. Just be aware that there are many fake walbros on Ebay.
Spec stage 1 or 2 clutch.

Pulling 7MGE out today and see how that goes. Tomorrow, will try to find a Machine Shop capable of doing the "RA" and possible re-surfacing while I wait (really against taking more metal off. Already feel I over did it trying to get rid of water passage's cavities).
On the clutch. Do I have to buy the kit, or can I keep my OEM plate and buy just the disc? The existing disc is practically new. I suppose it was changed not long ago (Will take some pics of it and post them later).
On the fuel pump, it's not about money as we discussed earlier. I just don't want to have to modify OEM setup due to resistor specs (with the exception of running a heavier feed wire and the use a 30 amp relay).
Question ??? how many cc on OEM 89 Lexus LS400 injectors?

Ok. going to start pulling that BHG GE engine. Will check back later. BTW, my name is Jose (Joseph). What's yours?
 

bandit1730

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May 19, 2012
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Miami FL 33181
Update.

Sent family to Orlando for a week so I could have some peace and freedom as they already started bitching about their time share.
+90 degrees here in Sunny/Humid Miami. Had to install a trap on work area.

CIMG0155.JPG
Now going to get a 12 pack, come back and let the fun and swearing start.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,231
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Atlanta
If you dont want to smooth the turbo block surface so you can go mhg, AND dont want to deal with higher compression/ cam timing issues assiciated with a composite gasket and loss of deck height, you might as well throw away the block. If you build up the na motor, you cant bump the boost up much because it's already a high compression motor.
The pressure plate is more critical than the disc. You can throw 400hp at a factory disc, as long as you have a strong pressure plate to keep it from slipping. If you have a good disc, the check www.clutchnet.com for a good upgraded p.p.

No mods for the walbro. The double resistor issue is with Denso mkIV pumps.