Search results

3.54:1 posi The rear is actually pretty tough and will hold 600+ HP. The problem occures in the half shafts when you get wheel hop - they break at the spline. You can change out the gears from the front axle of a raider to get the rear to 4.62:1 ratio. The later quest came with 6 bolt half...

The Quest has some nice body lines without a doubt- but there is something about a targa top that keep drawing me back to a Supra.- lol

I did the swap over the winter- The biggest hang-up was the driveshaft - mating the r154 to the conquest pinion- Went with a Supra shaft(aluminum from Shaftmasters) and redrilled the stock pinion - zero vibration....smooth all the way up to 6500k. The car moves out pretty good.

http://s1107.photobucket.com/albums/h391/Supturbo/ Hopefully have a Supra someday but this will do for now.

BAH- ohwell- lol The dealership was convenient - I just wanted to get rid of the damn car leaking on my garage floor.

Toyota dealership

Ok since I didnt get any help on this I did some research, ordered what I found out and no more leaks. I thought I should share this to save someone else some time. The part number for P/S suction union o-ring on the 1jz is 90301-11016 Thats the good news - the bad news is the damn thing is 6...

this has to be somewhat common issue due to the fail design. What are people doing to fix?

Would this kit from NAPA have the oring I need? NPS 73723

OK I now have another issue - arghhhhh - I noticed that I have developed a leak at the union on top of the p/s pump. I went to the local automotive shop and all the orings they have are way to fat to fit. Does this part have to be ordered from toyota? and if so does anybody have the part number?

Could it be a failing TPS? Yea IAC prices are crazy - no way around them if they are bad (sticking) but to raise the idle? The bad thing about them is you cant even take them apart like the 2j's. thanks for the replies te72

Car starts right up idles high when cold then as the car warms up the idle levels out around 800rpm. After the 20 minutes of driving she drops to around 400-500 rpm at the stop signs. - When I park and just let the thing idle it almost stalls but slowly but surely she comes back to life and the...

I cant seem to find out what the heck is going on with thing - Its so weird- It starts and idles perfect- runs like a raped ape- but after about 20 minutes or so the rpms will come down to almost stalls out the car at a stop. I give it gas take off and the car drives fine no hiccups until I...

Great posts - thanks for all the input and suggestions -

I was wondering what would be the correct order of things -ie stages to get my 1jz to 350-400+hp/ Motor stock- 2 1/2 intercooler piping-intercooler - bypass fuel line, walbro, 2 1/2 exhaust no cats, stock-y pipe. Stage one would consists of? hp range? Stage two ? Stage 3? The reason why I...

Found something insteresting but I dont think its the root cause or maybe it is but it seems backwards - I was looking at the vac lines and noticed a small pinhole in the vac line that goes to the FPR - So............I replaced the line and the bam she idles and revs perfect even when I snap the...

OK i need some suggestions as I have looked over everything and cant seem to get the thing to idle were it should. This is a 1jz - Walbro fuel pump - DM's bypass line, I checked and cleaned IAC, tps when I unplug the idle goes down than comes back up, new Water temp sensor, I removed the vsv...

Unplug - pull motor - drop in motor - plug--n-play

Tons of info on the site about swapping into Supra-hint hint "Stickies" You will have no oil pressure signal unless you do a mod- which again is on the site. Search it out man all your questions have already been answered. G/L and grats on the find.

Thanks aphxero - I fat fingered a 2 and was referring to E1- you explained what the dotted lines lines mean. E1 is main ecu ground??? Could explain why it runs kinda rich ...........maybe/hopefully :/