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Hey guys how you doing.. Anyone driving their car still? I recently started driving my 91 again and gonna try to get antique plates soon

The GM truck ls2 coilpacks are good

Nice hanging in with the AMG man. some euro cars handle incredibly well considering their weight. With some wider tires, Sway bars, shocks+springs and you will be amazed at how quick your car will take the turns. I actually have a few aftermarket suspension parts im looking to get rid of...

I had to trim most of the black box to get the fuel rail to fit. I used plastic wiring loom to protect the wires that were left exposed. Its not all that difficult, just have to mock up and trim as you go.

hx40?

if you plan on dailying the car, keep in mind a lightweight flywheel is no fun in stop and go traffic.Especially going uphill. The extra weight that the stock flywheel has adds inertial weight to the crank so when the clutch engages the rpms dont drop as much as with a lighterweight. Although...

That is how I have mine jumped on my harness, it works. Maybe your injector phasing in AEM is incorrect?

did you calibrate your tps signal input? Put your car key into the ON position but dont turn the car on. goto edit> ecu config and under TPS config. press i on the idle space. then floor it and press i on the maximum scale. try it and see if it worked.

the 1jz harness has the injectors grouped into 3 pairs. Did you run individual wires for each injector back to the aem unit?

Yes, you use a 1jz bellhousing and clutch/flywheel

if you have the whiteline front bar I would go for a matching whiteline rear or a tanabe rear (the tanabe is stiffer, so youll have a tiny bit oversteer when you want it). From my experience: I bought a whiteline rear sway bar and kept the stock front, I drove around on the softest setting...

Looks like a custom push-pull converter for use with twindisk/ multidisk clutches. Unless you have the appropriate clutch for it you're going to have to find a stock fork and hub.

The 1jz is extremely reliable for 450wheel, you'll have fast spool with a medium sized turbo and it will easily handle that on stock headgasket/internals. If the engine is clean when you get it, I wouldn't bother rebuilding it. Theres multiple upgrade paths you can take, but fortunately 450whp...

Regardless of the "negligible" benefits, that 65lbs along with other deletes quickly adds up. Aftermarket front seats and rear seat delete also contribute to that total. If you can remove enough weight from the car to displace even the weight of the driver, then thats worth doing IMO.

I took out the sound deadening in the hatch, rear seats and under the carpet in both front seats. It ended up weighing about 65 pounds. Up to you if you want to weight less or you wanna hear less.

swap the engine for a 350 chevy, cam, tune and intake/ex setup easy 300hp+ /300++ ftlb for way less than building an n/a 7m that wont reach your goals

you really need to get at least an safc and a wideband before you go any further

you have stance coilovers and you want to downgrade to an entry level spring? are you running stock sways?

When i removed it on my bpu 1jz it caused a very violent lean spot at about 3000k rpm, so much that caused the car to bog and wideband to read 18+afr when i put the dampner back on, the problem went away. Its very strange