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From what I've read running lean could mean one of these – Bad fuel pressure – Vacuum leak – Stuck open EGR valve – pump regulator – Insufficient fuel

It can be a bit difficult to carry iwb. I am a 32 inch waist but wear a 34 inch waist with a belt. I make sure the belt is tight enough to hold my pants up but not to tight that I can't unholster my firearm. Also I've been using a cloth holster (the ones you can buy from walmart or academy...

Haven't been able to check out much on the supra past couple days. I did install the jdm bubble markers, will put pics later. I also took apart the window switches to clean the connections as I'm having issues with the passenger side going back up. Worked good after only a few times then went...

If you tell us more you'll have to kill us. Lol

Ima pretty skinny guy myself. I carry iwb as it hides it much better but can get uncomfortable at times. My issue is i will have to buy shirts left and right as they tend to shrink after a few washes and ima always tugging down on the shirts to make sure the firearm doesn't show.

I have been conceal carrying it since I got my conceal license like 5 years ago. Got the compensator a year and a half ago. And no way the conceal the extended mag but 10 rounds are still good.

I know there is going to be a bunch of triggered gun haters for this setup but im loving it. It is also my current conceal carry minus the extended mag of course.

I bought myself a Beretta 96fs and added a sweet sgs style compensator. Also just bought a extended mag for it and it looks awesome. I've always been a Beretta fan since I saw the matrix.

So rebuilding it would be cheaper then buying new one? Where do I find parts for the rebuild? Is there places I can take it in for rebuilding it?

That is true because I just had the battery tested with their tester three times and tested good all three times. They put it on a charger and found out it was bad. So hard to trust their testers. I guess it would be more piece of mind to just drop in a new alternator atm as all my wires are...

Running all stock 7m

Unless I'm missing it I didn't see anything on the 3 pin connector testing on the tsrm.

Ok so dropped the alternator back in with a 80 amp fuse. Battery warning light came on with key on then went off with car started. Tested volts to battery. Was getting 14.4 volts. Tested volts to fuel pump 8.9 at idle and 11.5 at 2800 rpms but wouldn't rev past 2800 rpm. Turned car off. Volts...

I'm more so talking about the alternator fusible link in the fuse box.

So the 86.5 to 88 does use the 80 amp?

Took the alternator to autozone, O'Reillys, and advance auto part today to have it tested. Alternator tested good at autozone and O'Reilly and the guy at advance could not figure out how to test it right so it kept testing bad. I will start with tsrm tomorrow to figure out my issue.

I've read someone talked to a electrical engineer which told this guy that 1.25b converts to 80 amps. I believe that's your expertise Mr. 3p141592654. What's your take on that?

Ok so my alt fuse says on the fuse box cover 1.25B. It has a 60 amp fuse in the place. I'm reading on tsrm that there is suppose to be 100 amp fuse. Which one do I get 60 amp fuse or 100 amp fuse? Or am I suppose to have a fusible link?

Ok so I think I'm having alternator problems as at idle my battery reads at 12.4 volts. But the alternator tested good at autozone and I'm seeing 14 volts to the charge fuse in the engine fuse box but it is not getting to the battery. Probably why my other battery took a shit. I haven't test...

Seems to be same quality as original.