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So pretty much the emission systems cause the engine to get buildup? Without the emission systems the engine would run cleaner?

Which kinda brings me to the point, why do those who have no clue try to do? The front upper radiator/headlight support on my supra Has been hacked away. Therefore causing a lazy eye headlight on my passenger side. Now i got to find a good one and have a body shop weld it on. I've ran into guys...

I'm keeping my supra stock for now but just wanted to know why some other remove some of these systems. From what you said there are no benefits to removing them. I'll be ordering the pump by Monday and then swapping it out. Fingers crossed.

As I wait to get a new fuel pump, I'm looking into other problems the supra is having. Figured out why the passenger side headlight didn't work, one of the harness wires where cut. Fixed it and got it working. Installed my foglights i got but they didn't turn on so have some diagnosing to do...

So to add a walbro I have to drill out the j-tube? Can the stock fpr work for the walbro pump? I did pull off the rail today to check if injector are stuck open which they are not. More then likely will put new seals on the injectors later, they look good but would rather have seals new. I will...

Well I learned another thing. Learned about the j-tube. Went and checked on mine and it is still there, has not been bypassed, and has not been drilled out. Question, if I do drop in the walbro 255 without bigger injectors or adjustable fuel pressure regulator would I need to bypass the...

What would be the economical (cheaper) version of our denso fuel pump? If I decide to go with a higher flow pump (let's say walbro 255), would it be ok to use on a completely stock setup? I'm seeing 255, 320, 340, and 380 lph kits on ebay like 1/4 the price to same in price of stock denso. Any...

Ok after watching a vid on YouTube and taking Pi advice I figured my fpr is not the reason for the pressure drop after the car is turned off. I clamped the return line off near the fpr and jumped +B to Fp. Built up pressure the once I removed the jumper, pressure dropped fast. The YouTube was...

Got all these in my cart. I might as well go with all new. Not to expensive and it'll save me headaches down the road.

Ok so I straight jumped battery to pump. Still 8 psi drop at snap throttle and drops to 10 psi full throttle. That's with battery at 14.5 volts. The wire I jump reads at 14.5 volts before i jump the pump then reads at 13.3 volts after I jump the pump. I also guess the check valve in the pump...

Will do tomorrow and will let you guys know the outcome. Hopefully this works!

Got you. So like the +B, if it where corroded it would cause a lower volt to reach the ecu, therefore the ecu would have a lower output to the other systems aka fuel pump, vsv's, ect....... which in theory would be causing my fuel pressure to drop at higher load due to lower volts right?

So if the volts getting to the ecu drops, the volt output to let's say for instance the injectors would stay the same? Like a 1 volt drop to the ecu would not have a 1 volt drop to the injectors?

Might be the reason why some of the systems are not functioning right due to insufficient power getting to the system. I will check the volts to the vsv and connect battery straight to the fuel pump and test it out then. Will have to test the resistance of my complete EFI wiring. I've also...

If I run straight from the battery to the pump wouldn't it put 14 volts to the pump constantly when running? Could that mess anything up? And could someone get me their volts to the fpr vsv at idle? Need to know if I'm getting the correct volts to that as well.

Ok so EFI fuse and relay pins looks good. I will have to test the relay out. With the car on engine not running, I'm getting a 0.12 volt drop to the EFI fuse vs battery volts. Edit: ok so with the ignition on battery at 12.36 volts I'm getting 12.16 volts to the +B on the check connector...

Ok here are my numbers At idle of 1000 rpms Batt ~ 14.57 volts +B ~ 13.67 volts Fp ~ 9.48 volts Pump ~ 9.03 volts Idle jumpers at 1000 rpms Batt ~ 14.53 volts Fp/+B ~ 12.99 volts Pump ~ 11.51 volts Draw of 4.30 amps

Ok so with +B and Fp jumped I'm reading a 2.60 volt drop through all the wiring even at the jumper. Without the jumper +B is getting the 12.6 volts. As Pi said the pump is more likely going into overload mode due to a restriction which most likely is causing the volt drop. I will start...

Yup they all three have the black ring on the rail side. Will start testing wiring and for restrictions within the fuel lines this weekend.

Would these be the proper spacers for the fuel rail?