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tps wiring and idle actuator wiring terminals seemed a little loose to me, so i pulled each and adjusted the terminals. i also did the maf terminals again. the tps sensor screws werent loose and the sensor hasnt budged since the last time i set it. also the pipe is correct and not leaking...

if you think its relevant then ill go out and check them both. on my way now

i need some advice on this one, im generally pretty good at electric issues but this ones got my chasing my tail... most recent background: i bought a harness and ecu from a guy on the forum. got it swapped in and all was fine for about an hour, then i had knock sensor codes...so i separated...

same here man, im just saying, if everything else was left alone, its prob your best bet to go ahead and swap left for right and see if the level goes to the other side, or maybe just disappears completely

if you ever replaced your bushings you should have torqued the bolts at ride height (weight of car on the wheels) reason he brought it up is because if you torque the bushings while the suspension is at full droop, the tension from the bushings being locked in this way can cause extra...

nice vid, thats some good carnage going on in there. ive read a few people upgrading a w58 because like you said, they really liked the way it shifted. i think in the long term though, just do the 154 and be done with it. its tempting to try the spare w58 but if you already have the 154...

best dyno ever...thats epic man, lmao!

the w58 shifter i pulled at the junk yard looked identical to my r154's...hell, the parts are so cheap, why not try?

lol...all the heckling aside, please post your progress if you can please. im so sick of reading threads that just wind up driving off a cliff like...

ill be replacing most of my system tomorrow. i think insulating the suction/low side will help with performance (condenser to dryer and dryer to evap), i found some type of insulating tape/wrap i plan to use. i dont have the extra cash for the new condenser right now so i plan on flushing it and...

^^^this its gonna be your safest bet. if the chassis/body tears like i fear it will, mending it wont be an easy task.

its not "unsafe" imo as long as you use the bolts to back it up. i dont like the idea of welding thin metal like that, you would have to do perimeter welds on the outside and this would let the frame flex a bit and may cause frame cracking (reading back, its basically what poodles said, you need...

^^^beat me to it, damn!

same issue here, grounded ignitor, new-used coils, 8mm plug wires, 4 different brand plugs. i have full 3" and i think it just makes it louder and thats why i hear it and bugs me so bad. ive learned to deal with it but if anyone finds a solution ill be the next one out there turning wrenches!

yes, i just posted the link earlier here incase youre looking at clutch section and not trans. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=MT&P=4 tips, when youre ready to reinstall, line up your pressure plate/flywheel holes and mark the flywheel and pressure plate before...

garnet red pearl is one of my favs, but i like white...just bmw alpine white or honda type r/championship white.