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Or get hold of a 1jzvvti-fuelrail, or an aftermarket, they're scarce but they're there.

OK, that sounds promising. btw, I meant your login name, not your sig... :biglaugh:

This is where the fueltank breathes through. When you fill up your tank, the air in the tank needs to go somewhere. It will both go via the fillerpipe and this line, at that moment you will smell some gas fumes at the end of this line, thats why there is this charcoal canister, to nutralize...

Start at the top of the intake cam wheel. Then go down on the right side to the crank whilst keeping the belt tight. The slack should be on the left side; between the exhaust side cam wheel and the crank. Before you start you need to set the crank at '0'. I always put on the plastic cover...

.008in is too tight, you ex.valves won't close off properly anymore when things get hot. I would be surprised if HKS would need different clearances. The clearances are for the head and valves, not the cams. The cams don't get that hot.

Don't block it off. It runs together with the fuel lines and the rear brake line under the car. It rises along the firewall on the lefthand side. I cut it about halfway and bended it back so it is pointing backwards a little under the car. It's made of steel so it won't break easily.

Yeah, but was it the gasket or the ports which are smallest? Can you confirm the gasket is the smallest?

intake 0.15mm - 0.25mm exhaust 0.25mm - 0.35mm or for you non-metric people: 0.006 - 0.010in 0.010 - 0.014in That's for a 1jz and a 2jz (turbo of course)

Do you have a flange to match the exhaust side? Should be quite a custom job to get something to match that. (your sig doesn't sound too promising for that, lol!) And what are you gonna do at the end of the external wg pipe? Just block it off?

Very nice goodies! Tell me, where does santa live so I too can visit him to give him a BJ. LOL!

Yes, sounds like the stock O2 sensor going bad. Could be it's not bad enough to throw a code though.

If I remember correctly the exhaust gasket holes are smaller than the ports. I was going to port match mine, but ended up only doing the intake side because the exhaust gasket was the bottle neck, not the ports. I agree with your porting theory above by the way, I think it is correct. Also the...

Bad experience? Maybe good to share. (btw, the motor shop which I use for my engine has good experiences with JE, probably because they're a high volume customer)

Yes, they're a good product, like soapra said. Actually it's pretty cheap for a set of good rings. But if you're worrying on $50.- of your rebuild budget, you better not start rebuilding an engine. You always run into stuff that needs replacing when you get to it, which can vary your rebuild...

Sticking a metal rod or tube to the housing from whatever you suspect is making the noise and listening at the other end also works pretty good.

Nope, they're too soft for aftermarket honing.

Measuring the clearance is something you could do yourself easily. Then if you need some shims swapped out you can always go to the shops and have them do it. It's not that hard to swap shims you know, check the tsrm. You can use other tools than the mentioned toyota special tool to push the...

If you change to other cams, you always check the clearance after install. That will tell if you need to swap some shims here and there. With a cam swap like this you can expect that you will need to swap a few out.

How many have you seen in real life? Oil build up doesn't mean you will get rod knock straight away. So far it only tells it's done quite some miles and it could have had more oil changes. H-Dogg, for the second time, what are your power goals with this engine? That will tell the route forward.

The 2jz piston rings will work fitment wise, but won't hold the honing your motorshop will perform. Toyota uses a really mild honing which they can do because it is new. This type of honing doesn't work on a used engine as it is too mild. The honing a motorshop will perform will need harder...